CHAPTER XI OF THE TEMPER, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE PERSIANS The Persian Blood is naturally thick; it may be seen by the Guebres, who are the remainder of the ancient Persians; they are homely, ill shap'd, dull, and have a rough Skin, and an Olive Complexion. The same Thing is observ'd also in the provinces next the Indus, whereof the Inhabitants are little better shap'd than the Guebres, because they marry only amongst them: But in the other Parts of the Kingdom, the Persian Blood is now grown clearer, by the mixture of the Georgian and Circassian Blood, which is certainly the People of the World, which Nature favours most, both upon the Account of the Shape and Complexion, and of the Boldness and Courage; they are likewise Sprightly, Courtly and Amorous. There is scarce a Gentleman in Persia, whose Mother is not a Georgian, or a Circassian Woman; to begin with the King, who commonly is a Georgian, or a Circassian by the Mother's side; and whereas, that Mixture begun above a hundred Years ago, the Female kind is grown fairer, as well as the other, and the Persian Women are now very handsome, and very well shap'd, tho' they are still inferior to the Georgians: As to the Men, they are commonly Tall, Straight, Ruddy, Vigorous, have a good Air, and a pleasant Countenance. The Temperateness of their Climate, and the Temperance they are brought up in, do not a little contribute to their Shape and Beauty. Had it not been for the Alliance before mention'd, the Nobility of Persia had been the ugliest Men in the World; for they originally came from those Countries between China and the Caspian Sea, call'd Tartary; the Inhabitants whereof being the homeliest Men of Asia, are short and thick, have their Eyes and Nose like the Chinese, their Face flat and broad, and their Complexion yellow, mix'd with black. As to the Natural Parts, the Persians have them as beautiful as their Bodies; their Fancy is lively, quick and fruitful; their Memory easy and copious; they have a ready disposition to Sciences, and to the Liberal and Mechanick Arts, and to War also; they love Glory, or rather Vanity, which is only the Shadow of it; they are of a tractable and complying Temper, of an easy and plodding Wit; they are courtly, civil, complisant, and well-bred; they have naturally an eager bent to Voluptuousness, Luxury, Extravagancy, and Profuseness; for which Reason, they are ignorant both of Frugality and Trade. In a Word, they are born with as good natural Parts as any other People, but few abuse them so much as they do. They are true Philosophers on the account of Riches, and the Misfortunes of the World, and on the Hope and Fear of a Future State; they are little guilty of Covetousness, and are only desirous of getting, that they may spend it; they love to enjoy the Present, and deny themselves nothing that they are able to procure, taking no Thought for the Morrow, and relying wholy on Providence, and their own Fate; they firmly believe it to be sure and unalterable, and carry themselves honestly in that respect; so when any Misfortune happens to them, they are not cast down, as most Men are, they only say quietly, Mek toub esi, i. e. That is written, or, it is ordained, that that should happen. Twenty Years ago, it was the Opinion of several People in Europe, and of the most Noted and most Understanding Men, that the Persians would embrace the fair Opportunity of the Turks great Defeat to recover Babylon from them; and that they would declare War with the Sultan, now they saw him so low, beaten every where, and losing such large Countries. And I always said on the contrary; That I was sure they would take no Notice of it, because 'tis the Humour of the Persians, above all things, to value Life, and to enjoy it. They have lay'd by their Warlike Temper, and have given themselves up to Wantonness, which they don't suppose can be found in a great Bustle, and in dubious and laborious Undertakings. Those Men are the most lavish Men in the World, and the most careless of the Morrow, as I said just now. They cannot keep Money; and whatever Riches fall to them, they waste all in a very little time. Let, for Instance, the King give fifty or a hundred thousand Livres to any Man, he lays it out in less than a Fortnight, in buying Slaves of both Sexes; in hiring handsome Wives; in setting up a noble Equipage; in furnishing a House, or cloathing himself richly: And so spends the whole Sum so fast, without any regard to the Time to come, that unless some new Supplies intervene in two or three Months time, our Gentleman will be forced to sell again his whole Equipage by Piece-meal, beginning with his Horses; then his needless Servants; then his Concubines and Slaves; and lastly, even his own Cloaths. I have seen a thousand Instances of that Kind, one of them amongst the rest is very strange; An Eunuch who had been long Lord High Chamberlain and for two Years the declared Favourite, the power of disposing of all Posts and Employments, and commanding as if himself had been King, and who consequently had frequent and favourable Opportunities of heaping up vast Riches, was turn'd out of Favour, but however not out of his Estate. Two Months were scarce elaps'd, but he was forc'd to borrow Money upon Pawns, his Credit was at an End, as well as his Money; not but that he had acquired vast Riches, but he wasted them as fast as he got them. The most commendable Property of the Manners of the Persians, is their kindness to Strangers; the Reception and Protection they afford 'em, and their Universal Hospitality, and Toleration, in regard to Religion, except the Clergy of the Country, who, as in all other Places, hate to a furious Degree, all those that differ from their Opinions. The Persians are very civil, and very honest in Matters of Religion; so far that they allow those who have embraced theirs, to recant, and resume their former Opinion; whereof, the Cedre, or Priest, gives them an Authentick Certificate for Safety sake, in which he calls them by the Name of Apostat, which amongst them is the highest Affront. They believe that all Men's Prayers are good and prevalent; therefore, in their Illnesses, and in other Wants, they admit of, and even desire the Prayers of different Religions: I have seen it practis'd a thousand Times. This is not to be imputed to their Religious Principles, tho' it allows all sorts of Worship; but I impute it to the sweet Temper of that Nation, who are naturally averse to Contest and Cruelty. The Persians having the Character of Wanton and Profuse; one may easily believe them to be Lazy also; those two Properties being inseperable. Their Aversion to Labour is the most common Occasion of their Poverty. The Persians call the Lazy, and Unactive Men, Serguerdan, i. e. turning the Head this Way, and that Way. Their Language is full of those Circumlocutions; as for Instance, to express a Man reduced to a Mendicant State, they say, Gouch Negui Micoret, he eats his Hunger. The Persians never Fight; all their Anger, being not blustering and passionate, as in our Country, goes off with ill Language; and what's very Praiseworthy, is, that, what Passion soever they be in, and among whatever profligate Wretches they may light, still they Reverence God's Name, and he is never blasphemed. That Nation cannot conceive how the Europeans, when they are in a Passion can disown God; tho' they themselves are very often guilty of taking his Name in vain, without any Need or Provocation; their usual Oaths are, By the Name of God; By the Spirits of the Prophets; By the Spirits, or the Genius of the Dead; as the Romans swore, By the Genius of the Living. The Gentlemen and Courtiers commonly swear, By the King's Sacred Hand, which is the most inviolable Oath. The common Affirmations are, Upon my Head, Upon my Eyes. Two opposite Customs are commonly practis'd by the Persians; that of praising God continually, and talking of his Attributes, and that of uttering Curses, and obscene Talk. Whether you see them at Home, or meet them in the Streets, going about Business or a Walking; you still hear them uttering some Blessing or Prayer, such as, 0 most great God; 0 God most praiseworthy; 0 merciful God; 0 nursing Father of Mankind; 0 God forgive me, or, help me. The least Thing they set their Hand to do, they say, In the Name of God; and they never speak of doing any thing, without adding, If it pleases God. Lastly, they are the most devout, and most constant Worshippers of the God-head; and at the same time, come out of the same Men's Mouths a thousand obscene Expressions. All Ranks of Men are infected with this odious Vice. Their Bawdy talk is taken from Arse, and C ---- t, which Modesty forbids one to Name; and when they intend to abuse one another, they invent some nasty Trick of one another's Wives, tho' they never saw or heard of them; or wish they may commit some Nastiness. 'Tis so among the Women, and when they have spent their Stock of bawdy Names, they begin to call one another Atheists, Idolaters, Jews, Christians; and to say to one another, The Christians Dogs are better than thou, may'st thou serve for an Offering to the Dogs of the Franks. Men of all Ranks, as is before mention'd, are observ'd to use such filthy Expressions, but not so common, and to that degree; for I must confess, that the Mobb is generally infected with it. The first time I waited on the Lord Steward of the King's Household, in the Year 1666, the Persian Court being in Hircania, a Man of Distinction came to him about some Business, the Lord Steward said to him, why don't you go to the First Minister, to whom I have already sent you back; the Man Answer'd very Modestly; My Lord, I have been there, and he told me, that your Majeso (they give that Title to the Nobles as well as to the King) is to determine the matter; Gaumicoret, answer'd he, I wonder'd to hear the Lord Steward speak in that Manner of the first Minister; for the Word Gau, signifies a Turd, and Hicoret, he cats: That's the usual Expression amongst them, to intimate a wrong or false Answer. That's one of the least Faults of the Persians; they are besides, Dissemblers, Cheats, and the basest and most impudent Flatterers in the World. They understand Flattering very well; and tho' they do it with Modesty, yet they do it with Art, and Insinuation. You would say, that they intend as they speak, and would swear to it: Nevertheless, as soon as the Occasion is over, such as a Prospect of Interest, or a Regard of Compliance, you plainly see that all their Compliments were very far from being sincere. They take an Opportunity of praising Men, when they come out of a House, or pass by them, so that they may be heard; and they speak so seasonably, that the Praise seems to come naturally from them, and carries no Air of Flattery along with it. Besides those Vices which the Persians are generally adicted to, they are Lyers in the highest Degree; they speak, swear, and make false Depositions upon the least Consideration; they borrow and pay not; and if they can Cheat, they seldom lose the Opportunity; they are not to be trusted in Service, nor in all other Engagements; without Honesty in their Trading, wherein they overreach one so ingeniously, that one cannot help being bubbl'd; greedy of Riches, and of vain Glory, of Respect and Reputation, which they endeavour to gain by all Means possible. Being void of true Virtue, they affect the Shew of it, whether out of a Design to impose on themselves, or the better to attain the Ends of their vain Glory, their Ambition, and their Wantonness. Hypocrisy is the common Disguise they appear in; they would turn a League out of the Way, to avoid a Bodily Pollution; such a brushing as they go by a Man of a different Religion, and receiving one in their House in Rainy Weather, because the Wet of his Cloaths pollutes whatever touches them, whether Persons or Goods: They walk gravely, make their Prayers and Purgations at set Times, and with the greatest Shew of Devotion; they hold the Wisest and Godliest Conversation possible, discoursing constantly of God's Glory, and of his Greatness, in the Nobelest Terms, and with all the outward Shew of the most fervent Faith. Altho' they be naturally dispos'd to good Nature, Hospitality, Pitty, Contempt of the World, and of its Riches, they affect them nevertheless, that they may appear to be possest of a larger Share of them than they really are. Whoever sees them only passing by, or in a Visit, will always give them the best Character in the World; but he that deals with them, and pries into their Affairs, will find that there is little Honesty in them; and that most of them are Whited Sepulcres, according to our Saviours Expression, which I think the more proper here, because the Persians study particularly a strict Observation of the Law. That is the Character of the Generality of the Persians: But there is without doubt, an Exception to that general Depravation; for among some of the Persians, there is as much justice, Sincerity, Virtue and Piety to be found, as among those who profess the best Religions. But the more one Converses with that Nation, the fewer one finds included in the Exception, the Number of Truly, Honest and Courteous Persians being very small. After what I have been saying, one will hardly be perswaded, that the Persians are so careful of the Education of Youth as they really are; which is very true, notwithstanding. The Nobility, i. e. Men of Distinction, and substantial Housekeepers Children, (for among the Persians there is no Nobility strictly so called) are very well brought up. They commonly take in Eunuchs to look after them, who are instead of Governors, and have them always in their Sight, keeping them very strictly, and carrying them out only to visit their Relations, or to see the Exercises performed, or the Solemnity of Feasts. And because they might not be spoiled at School, or at the College, they are not sent thither, but have Masters at Home. They are likewise very careful that they don't converse with the Servants, lest they should hear or see an immodest thing; and that the Servants carry themselves before them respectfully and Discreetly. The Common People bring up likewise their Children carefully; they don't suffer them to ramble about the Streets, to take ill Courses, to learn to Game, and to Quarrel, and learn rogueish Tricks. They are sent twice a Day to School, and when they come back, their Parents keep them by them, to initiate them in their Profession, and in the Business they are designed for: The Youth do not begin to come abroad into the World 'till they be past twenty, except they be marry'd before; for in that Case they are sooner set at Liberty, and left to themselves. By the word married, I mean joined to a Wife, or a Spouse by Contract; for at sixteen or seventeen, they give them a Bed-fellow, if they be Amorous. They appear, at their entrance into the World, Wise, Well-bred, Obliging, Shame-fac'd, little Talkers, Grave, Mindful, and Chaste in their Life and Conversation: But most of them take to ill Courses soon, and give themselves up to Luxury; and for want of an Estate or Income to indulge their Inclinations, they fall to unlawful Practices, which offer themselves every Minute, and appear very plausible. The Persians are the most Civiliz'd People of the East, and the greatest Complimenters in the World. The Polite Men amongst them, are upon a level with the Politest Men of Europe. Their Air, their Countenance, is very well composed, Lovely, Grave, Majestical, and as Fond as may be; they never fail complimenting one another about the Precedency, either going out or coming into a House, or when they meet, but 'tis over presently. They look upon two Things in our Manners, as very ridiculous, viz. Contending so long, as we do, who shall go first; and covering our Head, to do Honour to any Man, which amongst them is a want of Respect, or a Liberty which no body takes but with his Inferiors or familiar Friends: They observe the right and the left Hand, but our Left is their Right, and so 'tis all over the East. They say, that Cyrus began first to place Men on his left Hand, out of respect to them, because that side is the weaker part of the Body, and the most exposed to Danger. They visit one another regularly on all occasions of Mirth and Sadness, and at solemn Feasts, the rich wait then for the Visits of inferior People, which they return afterwards. The Courtiers go and pay their Compliments Night and Morning to the Ministers, and wait upon them from their Palace to Court. They are led into large Halls, where they set Tobacco and Coffee before them, till the Lord, who is still on the Woman's side, comes out. As soon as they see him, every one rises, and stands up. in his own Place; he goes by, bows his Head to the Company, and the Company to him again, but much lower; then he goes and sits down in his usual Place: He beckons to the Company to sit down; and when he is ready to go, he rises, goes out first, and every one follows him. The Rich receive also in that manner their Inferiors, but they use more Ceremony with their Equals, and their Superiors: They wish them well come before they sit down, and mind to sit down but after they are sat, and to rise after them when they go out. The Master of the House sits always at the upper end: And when he is willing to shew any Body some particular Respect, he beckons him to come and sit down by him; he does not offer him his Place, for the Person he offers it to, would look upon it as an Affront, but out of an extraordinary respect to him, and goes and sits down beside the Stranger below him. When the Person visited is in his Hall, and is an Eminent Person, they behave themselves in this manner: The Visiter goes in softly, steps to the next empty Seat where he stands with his Feet close to one another, his Hands over one another in his Girdle, stooping a little with his Head, with his Eyes fix'd, and a grave and thoughtful Countenance, till the Master of the House beckons to him to sit down, which he never fails to do presently, either with his Hand, or with his Head. When a Man receives a Visit from his Superior, he rises as soon as he sees him come in, and offers to meet him half way. If he is visited by his Equal, he rises half way. If by an Inferior somewhat deserving, he only makes a motion of rising. Visiters seldom rise if any Body comes into the Room, except the Master of the House doth it, or any body has some particular Reason of shewing that respect to him that comes in. There is beside much more Ceremony observed in Persia at sitting down. Before Men to whom Respect is due, a Man sits presently on his Heels, with his knees and Feet close to one another: Before his Equals, he sits easier, that is, he sits on his Breech, his Legs a-cross, and his Body upright. They call that Posture Tehazanou, i. e. sitting on four Knees, because the Knees and Ancles lie flat on the Ground: Friends and familiar Acquaintance say presently Sit down easy, i. e. cross your Legs as you please; but unless they have sat half a Day in the same Place, they don't shift their Situation. The Eastern People are not near so restless, and so uneasy as we; they sit gravely and soberly, make no motion with their Body, or very seldom, except it be to case themselves, but they never make any to help their Discourse; our way upon that account surprises them strangely; for they don't believe, that a Man that is in his Wits, can be so full of Action as we are. 'Tis also amongst them a great piece of Rudeness for a Man to shew his Toes when he sits, he must hide them under his Gown. That the Reader may the better understand how they sit in Persia, I have caused two [sic] Figures to be set on the other side, where the Posture is exactly represented. Their usual way of Saluting is with a Nod, or laying their Right-hand on their Mouth, which is the way among Friends after a long Absence. Lastly, they also Kiss one another, and give a short Embrace, after a return from a long journey, and on extraordinary Occasions. Those are the usual Manners relating to Action; those relating to Discourse are yet smoother, and more obliging. They receive their Visitors pleasantly with a Koc-homedy, i. e. you are come in good; Safa a crudy, you purge us with your Presence; Giachuma calibut; the Place you use to sit in at my House, has been empty; otherwise nobody has been here deserving the Honour, to supply your Absence, and such like Compliments; which are multiplied and repeated every foot, according to the Respect they have for the Visitors. I'll repeat it once more; The Persians are the most kind People in the World; they have the most moving and the most engaging Ways, the most complying Tempers, the smoothest and the most flattering- Tongues, avoiding in their Conversation, Relations or Expressions which may occasion Melancholy Thoughts: And when the Discourse or Occasion obliges them to it, they use Circumlocutions to avoid at least the Tragical Terms; for Instance, if they would say that a Man is dead, they say, Amrekodber chuma bakchid, i. e. he has made you a Gift of the Share of Life which he had, otherwise, he might have liv'd still many Years; but out of the Love he has for you, he has joined them to those you have yet to run. I remember upon that Account, a short and ingenious Story of the General of the Musketiers, in the time of Abas the Second; That Prince, who was a Man of bright Parts, had given that General a White Bear to keep, which had been brought him from Muscovy, supposing that he would take more Care of it than they would in the Park of wild Beasts: However, the Bear did not live long, the King being acquainted with it some time after, desired to know what he died of, and asked the General, What's become of my white Bear? Sir, Answer'd he, he has made you a Gift of the share of Life he had. The King smiling said to him, You are a Bear your self, for wishing that the Years of a Beast be added to mine. They tell another Story pretty like that of the same General, which I insert here, with a Design to acquaint the Reader with the Persian Expressions. The King was Walking a short League off of Ispahan, along the Hill Rousopha, a thick Cloud lighting on the Point of a Rock, the King said to the General, Look at that black Cloud, on the Point of that Rock, it is like the Hats of the Franks. The Eastern Nations give that Name to the European Christians. That's true, Sir, answer'd the General, and God grant you may Conquer them all; How is it possible, Reply'd the King Smiling, that I should Conquer them all, who are two thousand Leagues off me, when I can't Conquer the Turks, who are my nearest Neighbours? They condole in these Terms, Sercuma Salamet bachet, i. e. May your Head be safe and sound; otherwise, Your Life is so dear to me, that I care little who dies, so you do but live; or your Preservation is my only Concern. The Compliments observ'd in Letters, Memoirs, and Petitions, are still longer and exacter than the Verbal ones, which are spoken in the Presence of Friends: But seeing I shall have an Occasion to discourse of them elsewhere, I shall only say here, that they have a Book on Purpose, containing the Titles to be given to all Orders of Men, from the King to the Cobler. That Book is call'd Tenassour, i. e. Method or Rule. Men of Business have it by Heart. I shall give no Abstracts of them, because the Stile of them may be seen in the Letters I have Inserted in my journey from Paris to Ispahan, and in several Petitions, which one may read hereafter. One of their Politenesses in Discourse, is to speak always in the Third Person, both when they speak to others, and speak of themselves, much in the same Manner as the Germans do. As civil as that Nation is, they never Act out of Generosity; a Property they are Strangers to in the East, their Bodies and Estates being Subject to a Despotick and Arbitrary Power, their Minds and Hearts are so likewise; They do nothing but out of a Principle of Interest, that is to say, out of Hope or Fear: And they cannot conceive that there should be such a Country where People will do their Duty from a Motive of Virto ono, without any other Recompence. It is quite the Contrary with them; they are paid for every thing, and before Hand too. One can ask nothing of 'em, but with a Present in one's Hand; and they have thereupon this Proverb, That one comes back from a Judge, as one went to him; As much as to say, that if one goes there with an empty Hand, one comes back without having any justice done one. The poorest and most miserable People never appear before a Great Man, or one from whom they would ask some Favour, but at the same time they offer a Present, which is never refus'd, even by the greatest Lords of the Kingdom, such as Fruit, Fouls, Lamb, &c. Every one gives of that which he is possest of most, and of the Profession which he is of, and those who have no Profession give Money. It is accounted an Honour to receive these sorts of Presents; they make ) em Publickly, and generally take that time when there is most Company. This is the general Custom throughout all the East; and it may be, one of the Ancientest in the World. As this seems very Mean and Dishonest with the Europeans, I shall not add, that it is neither perhaps the most Reasonable, and I shall not take upon me to defend it. I shall only say, that the Persians do the Service always for which they take the Present, and that they do it Instantly, or the first Opportunity that offers. They likewise make Presents to their Patrons and Benefactors, upon Festivals, and other such like solemn Occasions, without asking any particular Favour of them. The Persians neither love walking Abroad, nor Travelling. As to that of walking Abroad, they look upon that Custom of ours to be very Absurd; and they look upon the walking in the Alley, as Actions only proper for a Madman. They ask very gravely for what one goes to the End of the Alley, and why one does not stand still, if one has Business to go there. This proceeds no doubt from their living in a Climate that is more even than ours. They are not so Sanguine as we are Northward, nor so Fiery. The most Spirituous part of their Blood perspiring more than it does with us, which is the Reason that they are not so subject to the Motions of the Body, which look so like Lightness and Disquietude, and which go often to Extravagence, and even to Madness. They don't know such a Remedy in Persia, as that which we call Exercise; they are much better sitting or leaning, than walking. The Women and the Eunuchs generally Speaking, use no Exercise, and are always sitting or lying, without prejudicing the Health: For the Men, they ride on Horseback, but never walk, and their Exercises are only for Pleasure, and not for Health. The Climate of each People is always, as I believe, the principal Effect of the Inclinations and Customs of the Men, which are no more different among them, than that of the Temper of the Air is different from one Place to another. As for what relates to travelling, those journeys that are made out of pure Curiosity, are still more inconceivable to the Persians, than walking Abroad. They have no Taste of the Pleasure we enjoy in seeing different Manners from ours, and hearing of a Language which we do not Understand. When the French Company in the East-Indies sent Deputies to the King of Persia, the King of France sent two likewise, but without any Character, Nam'd Lalain, and Boullaye; and the Credential Letter imported, That these Gentlemen having an Inclination to Travel, andjoining with these French Merchants, ho are the Deputies, in order to see the World; the King made use of thl's Opportunity to write to his Persian Majesy to recommend this Company of French Merchants to him. I came to the Court of Persia when these Gentlemen were solliciting their Affairs, concerning which the Minister talk'd with me very often, and I found immediately, that this Letter was not at all pleasing to them upon many Accounts; as among others, because it was Occasionally sent. The Ministers ask'd me, if we had no more Regard for the Great Kings in our part of the World, than to send Letters to 'em by People not Deputed on Purpose: But they hung mightily upon those Words, Gentlemen who have a mind to Travel, which could not be put into their Language, without an Air of Absurdity, being a thing not practis'd, or even so much as known. They ask'd me if it was possible that there should be such People amongst us, who would travel two or three thousand Leagues with so much Danger, and Inconveniency, only to see how they were made, and what they did in Persia, and upon no other Design. These People are of Opinion, as I have observ'd, that one cannot better attain to Virtue, nor have a fuller Taste of Pleasure than by resting and dwelling at Home, and that it is not good to Travel, but to acquire Riches. They believe likewise, that every Stranger is a Spy if he be not a Merchant, or a Handicrafts-Man, and the People of Quality look upon it to be a Crime against the State to receive 'em among them, or to Visit them. It is from this Spirit of theirs no doubt, that the Persians are so grosly Ignorant of the present State of other Nations of the World, and that they do not so much as understand Geography, and have no Maps; which comes from this, that having no Curiosity to see other Countries, thev never mind the Distance, nor Roads, by which they might go thither. They have no such thing among 'em as Accounts of Foreign Countries, neither Gazetts, News A-la-main, nor Offices of Intelligence. This would seem very strange to People who pass their time in asking after News, and whose Health and Rest in a Manner, are Interested in it, as well as to those who apply themselves with so much care to the Study of the Maps and other Accounts; but this is however very true; and as I have represented the Persians, it is plain, that all that Knowledge is not requisite for the Pleasure and Tranquility of the Mind. The Ministers of State generally Speaking, know no more what passes in Europe, than in the World of the M-oon. The greatest Part, even have but a confus'd Idea of Europe, which they look upon to be some little Island in the North Seas, where there is nothing to be found that is either Good or Handsome; from whence it comes, say they, that the Europeans go all over the World, in search of fine Things, and of those which are Necessary, as being destitute of them. Yet notwithstanding what I have been saying, it is certainly true, that there is not that Country in the World, which is less dangerous to travel in from the Security of the Roads, for which they provide with a great deal of Care; neither is it less Expensive any where, by Reason of the great Number of publick Buildings, which they keep for Travellers, in all Parts of the Empire, as well in the Cities, as in the Country. They lodge in those Houses without being put to any Charge; besides which, there are Bridges and Causways, in all the Places where the Roads are too bad, which are made for the Sake of the Caravans, and of all those who travel from a motive of Gain. The Custom of the Persians who Traffick, or are in Business, is, that when they have got a Sum of Money together, they employ it first of all in Purchasing a House, which they never buy quite built, but rebuild it to the Size which they would have it; making use of a Proverb, That a House which a Man buy's quite built, is no more proper for his Family, than a Garment that he buy's ready made is fit for his Body. There are few People in Persia who Rent Houses. The poorest sort are generally the Owners of the Houses wherein they dwell. This proceeds from two Causes, First, That the Persians have not a Genius naturally bent upon Traffick. And the Second is, That their Religion forbids them taking any Interest for lending of Money, which is the Reason why every one avoids paying of Rent, but chooseth rather to buy a House, because he does not know how to employ his Money better. The next Purchase to this which the Persians make, is what they call Bazarga, or Market-place, which is a Gallery of Shops from one End to the other, most commonly Vaulted over, which they cause to be built near their House, or which they buy as Occasion offers. That generally is the first Land Estate which they buy. They afterwards purchase a Bath, then a Caravansera or Inn. One might perhaps imagine that these Estates pay 'em a Yearly or Quarterly Rent, as they do with us; but one shall be surprized to find that they Jett those Places by the Day, and oblige them to pay their Rents every Night, not so much as trusting 'em till next Morning; which is the Reason why those who acquire Estates and build upon 'em, cause the Buildings to be close to their Gates, that their Servants may the more commodiously receive their Rent. This however respects only the meaner sort of People, the others paying by the Week or the Month. But as they have no great Moveables in the East, that they neither make use of Tables, nor Chairs, nor Bedsteads, nor Cabinets, nor near so many Utensils for the Kitchin, a Lodger may much easier run away from them than with us. The richest among them, after having amass'd a great Estate for themselves and Children, set themselves about Publick Edifices, as Colleges, with Foundations for so many Students; after that, Caravanseray's or Inns upon the great Roads, for the reception of those who travel that way, without costing them any thing; then Bridges; and they end with Mosques, with a Revenue to entertain Priests, and something to distribute to Charities. The Persians, who call these Foundations Sonab a caret, as much as to say Merit for the future Life, say likewise, that these Beneficences are kreir Jary, as they speak it; that is to say, growing Goods; because, say they, the Prayers that are said in these Free Lodgings, and in these Temples, and when one actually makes use of the other Accommodations, turn to the advantage of the Founders, and are attributed to them. There are no other Carriages in Persia but Beasts for the Saddle, and great Tubs in the Nature of Cradles, cover'd and shut, wherein the Women of Quality Travel, two upon a Camel, of which I shall give a Description elsewhere. They have neither Coaches, Chariots, Litters, nor Chaises, whether because the Country is Mountainous, or that this is a Country broke off by Canals on every side, every body goes on Horseback, or upon a Mule, or upon those sort of Asses that Amble, and go nimble and easy. The Shop-keepers and Handy-crafts Men, have their Saddle-Beasts, and none but the poorest sort go on Foot. I leave it to the Reader, to make yet more Remarks on the Manners of the Persians, in the Series of my Relations, where I shall have occasion to speak of them. The Names which the Persians bear, are given 'em, either at their coming into the World, or when they are Circumcis'd, as they are to all the other Mahometans: And these Names are taken either from Eminent Persons of their Religion, from the Old-Testament, from their Histories, or they are Names of Power; for every one takes or gives himself a Name, according to his Mind; but they have no particular Sir-Names, or Names of the Family and Line; for their Sir-Names they take to themselves by way of Honour, the Proper Name of their Father, and sometimes that of their Son, in saying, such a one, the Father of such a one, or such a one, the Son of such a one; as for Example, Abraham, the Son of Jacob, and Mahammed, the Father of Aly. This is the Custom, time out of Mind, of naming themselves in the East. You may see it likewise in the Old- Testament, where one finds, for Example, the Kings of Assyria call'd Ben Adad, as much as to say Sons of Adad, and those of Palestine call'd Abimelec, that is to say, Son of Melec, a Term that signifies King. It is likewise very common among 'em to have several Sir-names, the one taken from the Name of his Father, and the other from his Son; and even to bear the Name of several of his Children, as the Calif Abrachid, the fifteenth Calif of the Race of the Abassides, who is sometimes named Abon Jafer, sometimes Abon Mahammed, which are the Names of his Sons. In short, it is very common with them to take for their Sir-name, the Calling that has been exercised, whether by the Father, or by his Ancestors, whether Liberal or Mechanick, by which they rais'd themselves in the World, Mahammed Caian, Mahammed the Taylor, Soliman Atari, Soliman the Druggist, Jouacri, the Jeweller, Stanboni, the Constantinopolitan, by Reason of his having got an Estate there; and what is Remarkable, as very Praise-worthy in my Opinion, that they are not ashamed of bearing these Sir-names after they become Rich, are raised to the highest Dignities, and are put into the greatest Employments. This is because they are rais'd by the Sciences, by their Employments, and especially by their Riches. There are but very few who are tied to it by Descent. As for Titles, they are not at all affected in the East, whether from Birth or Office. Every one fastens to his Name as he pleases, without the haughty Titles of Duke, Prince, and King: There are those which they never put after the Name, as the Title of Mirza, which signifies the Son of a Prince. This is to distinguish the Royal Personages from the rest of the World, who place these Titles before and after their Names quite another way, and contrary to others. One very strange Thing, and which one would scarce believe, is, that the Persians Glory in bearing the Title of Slaves. I speak of the People rais'd at Court, and who were born or bred up to Employments; they call themselves, by way of Honour, Slaves of the King, or Slaves of the Saints; for Example, The Duke Slave of Ibrahim, or of Mahammed, or of the King. These sort of Names, denote generally a Man in Offices, or one who aspires to 'em. When a Male Child is born into the World, it is the Custom for the Father to give every thing that he has upon him, to him who brings him the News. They come to him with their Turban off their Head, and say to him, You have a Male Child born; and he must strait make a Present for this good News, and as it were to buy his Clothes again, and what he has upon him. Medieval background and art for this etext courtesy of Return to theTable of Contents. Last Updated on March 24, 2001 by Lisa and Sylvia.