NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA

IN THE YEARS 1818-19 AND 1820

Accompanied by Geographical Notices of Soudan

And of the Course of the Niger

by G. F. Lyon

(First Published in 1821)





Note: in 1818 the author (then in Malta, aboard the English Royal Navy ship Albion) applied for permission to accompany one Mr. Richie on a scientific mission to the interior of Africa. Permission was granted, and with Mr. Richie, an English shipwright named John Belford, and M. Dupont (a French employee of Mr. Richie's) the author soon arrived in Tripoli. What follows is an account of customs and manners in north Africa, along with descriptions of the slave trade then extant.

When--after three years' spent in travel and observation--plague broke out in the city of Tripoli, Mr. Lyon decided to quit Africa and return to England. He brought with him scientific specimens, his horse (a gift from the Bashaw of Tripoli) and a Maherry (or fine courier camel) which he intended to present to his Majesty George IV.

By then, Mr. Richie was dead, having perished of starvation and ill-treatment; Mr. Belford's health was completely broken and Lyon was then in despair of his ever recovering. As for Lyon himself, he suffered briefly from an attack of ophthalmia, but soon regained his sight, and at the end of his narrative, he was eager to return to Africa and search for the source of the Niger.



Clothing worn at the city of Tripoli

Some maraboots

Description of Tripoli and area

Description of the Arabs

Towns of Sockna, Hoon, and Wadan

A desert journey with a slave kaffle

Description of the Tuareg people

Slaves, again

Articles of Commerce throughout North Africa

Description of the Soudan people . . .

. . . And of the Tibboo people

Slaves, yet again

Still more about slavery

Traveling with a slave kaffle once more

Remarks about the desert




<At the city of Tripoli> ... Our costume was that of the better class of Tripolines, who have two kinds of dresses; the one long, and worn chiefly by elderly men and persons of great consequence; the other short, and worn generally. For the information of future travellers, I shall enumerate the different articles of clothing.

Short Dress.

Sidrea.-A waistcoat fitting tight to the body, without any opening in front, having only holes for the neck and arms. It is pulled on in the same manner as the Guernsey frock used by seamen.

Farmela is a second waistcoat, open in front, and having broad gold lace and buttons,but no button-holes. It hangs over the sidrea.

Zibboon.-A jacket, the sleeves of which are embroidered. These first three dresses are confined round the waist by the band of the trowsers, which come outside them. A broad belt of silk or gold is then passed round the body. Over the jacket is an embroidered waistcoat without sleeves, called

Bidriah.-All these dresses may be of different colours, the most brilliant and gaudy being chiefly in request. On walking out, a hooded cloak of very finely spun white wool is thrown over all, and on great occasions a cloth one of the same form, bordered with rich gold lace, is used. This cloak is called Bornouse. The trowsers are immense, and of silk or cloth, according to the pleasure of the wearer.

The Long Dress

Consists of the two under waistcoats: over them is worn a caftan, which is a long gown or robe, embroidered in front and at the sleeves. Over this is worn a

Beneish, which resembles a caftan in shape, but differs in the disposition of the ornaments.

Jerba is a caftan with short sleeves, and is often worn in lieu of the Beneish.

Over these dresses woollen and cloth Bornouses are worn. The turbans are various, according to fancy: shawls of Cashmere, or imitations of those of Europe, are considered as the most splendid. Green turbans, it is well known, can be worn by none who are not shreefs, or descendants of the prophet. Blue, being the colour confined to the Jews, is of course not used in the turbans of the Mohammedans.

In riding out, boots of red, and sometimes yellow Morocco leather are worn, a pad being closely tied round each ankle before putting them on, in order to prevent the large stirrups from hurting the leg. When not riding, yellow slippers, with soles of the same kind as the upper leathers, are used, and are slipped into large solid ones of the same colour with thick soles when walking out. These last are always left at the door on entering a room. Red shoes are also worn by the middle class. The Jews are restricted to black. The trappings of the horse are gaudy, and as cumbrous as those of its rider. The saddles are high before and behind, much the same as those used in Spain. Under them, on the back of the horse, are five or six cloths of different colours, which are so arranged that the edges of each are shown. The saddles are frequently covered with highly embroidered velvet, or richly embossed gilt cases. Over the seat is thrown a saddle-cloth, bordered with gilt lace and embroidery. The stirrups are from a foot to twenty inches in length, and are generally gilt.


<Maraboots> ... which the procession was to set out. I certainly felt that my situation was a very dangerous one; but being resolved on the attempt, and telling the man to follow me closely, I dashed in with the crowd, and succeeded in getting near the Saints, who, with dishevelled hair, were rapidly turning round, and working themselves into a most alarming state of frenzy. A band of barbarous music was playing to them, while several men were constantly employed in sprinkling them with rose-water. Had I been discovered, my life would have been in very great jeopardy; but fortunately I was able to keep my countenance, and to pass unnoticed; and when the performers were sufficiently inspired, sallied out with them, and followed through the streets. One had a large nail run through his face from one cheek to the other; and all had bitten their tongues in so violent a manner as to cause blood and saliva to flow copiously. They were half naked, at intervals uttering short groans and howls; and as they proceeded (sometimes three or four abreast leaning on each other,) they threw their heads backwards and forwards with a quick motion, which caused the blood to rise in their faces, and their eyes to project from the sockets to a frightful degree. Their long black hair, which grew from the crown of the head (the other parts being closely shaven), was continually waving to and fro, owing to the motion of the head. One or two, who were the most furious, and who continually attempted to run at the crowd, were held by a man on each side, by means of a rope, or a handkerchief tied round the middle. As we passed through one of the streets, a party of Maltese and other Christians were discovered on a terrace, and were instantly assailed by showers of stones. I observed that whenever the Maraboots passed the house of a Christian, they affected to be ungovernable, and endeavoured to get near it, pretending they made the discovery by smelling out unbelievers. After following for an hour or two, during which I witnessed the most horrible and revolting scenes, I returned home, when, to my great amusement, I learnt that a rumour prevailed of my having been attacked and very ill treated; and that I had, in defending myself, stabbed a Maraboot, and ran away, no one knew whither. I was happy to be enabled in person to contradict these reports, and to prove that I had escaped not only unhurt, but unobserved. There were two parties who traversed the town; but from their being of opposite sects, and at war with each other, it was so arranged that they should take different routes.

That which I did not see was the superior one, and took its departure from under the walls of the castle. It was headed by a man named Mohammed, who had been much at our house, going on errands, and attending our horses. I did not, until afterwards, know he was so celebrated a character. Before the time of the procession he was confined in a dungeon, in consequence of his becoming very furious. When all was in readiness for the ceremony, the Bashaw took his station in the balcony overlooking the Arsenal, and this man was set at liberty, when he rushed on an ass, and with one thrust pushed his band into the animal's side, from which he tore its bowels, and began to devour them. Many eat dogs, and other animals; and on that day a little Jew boy was killed in the street, either by the Maraboots or their followers.

As the power of taking up serpents and scorpions is supposed to constitute a Maraboot, I determined on acquiring that honorable title. Mr. Ritchie bought some snakes, which we all learnt to handle, and I soon found out an effectual way of taking up the largest scorpions without the slightest chance of being stung. However, in order to observe the ceremonies practised by these pretended saints, I sent a servant in search of one of the most celebrated, under pretence of wishing myself to become a Maraboot.

This fellow went through numberless prayers and ceremonies, spitting in my hands, taking rose-water in his mouth, and sprinkling my face with it, reciting occasional prayers, and then washing his own mouth and hands in rose-water. After bottling up this sacred fluid, he told me to drink it on a particular day, which he named, and I then should be as highly gifted as himself; thus concluding his instructions, which, of course, I did not think myself bound to observe.


<The city of Tripoli> There are two grand markets held weekly, one on the sands behind the town every Tuesday, and the other on Fridays, about four miles distance, amongst the garden., of the Meshea which form a stripe of about three or four miles in breadth, between the beach and the desert.

In the town are Bazaars, which are open every day. These are streets, covered in overhead. The shops of merchants are ranged on each side, and are very small. Slaves and goods are carried about before the traders by auctioneers, who keep up a continual din, each calling the price last bidden. The Jews have a quarter of the town expressly to themselves, where they have their shops, and in which they are shut up every evening at sunset. This place is called Zanga t'el Yahood. These people are much persecuted, yet they contrive to engross all the trade and places of profit. They are forbidden, as I before observed, to wear gaudy clothes, and are only allowed turbans of blue.

Several houses set apart for the reception of merchants and their goods are called Fondook, and answer to the description given of the Caravanseras of the East. There are a few schools at which reading and writing, though to no great extent, are taught in a very noisy manner. A knowledge of letters, however, is by no means necessary to constitute a great man, or to advance him to any post of trust: of this there exists an example in the present minister, Sidi Hamet (who was formerly Rais el Marsa, or Captain of the port), and who can neither read nor write. We had often heard this circumstance, and one day put into his hands the Koran, with the wrong side uppermost, begging him to repeat to us a few lines of it. He evaded our request by pretending to read to himself for a short time, with the book still turned the wrong way; when assuming a very sagacious look, he returned it to us, observing, that "it was very well written," and thus convincing us we had not been misinformed respecting his ignorance. The Sheikh el Bled, or Governor of the town, is considered a very good scholar, and ready accountant, though he was once a boatman in the harbour. The contrast between the rigidity of some Moslems, and the indifference of others respecting association with Christians, is curiously exemplified in this man. He had sent his son to learn Italian under a Roman Catholic priest, without at all disguising the circumstance.

Drunkenness is more common in Tripoli than even in most towns in England. There are public wine-houses, at the doors of which the Moors sit and drink without any scruple. and the Saldanah, or place of the guard, is seldom without a few drunkards. The greater part of the better sort of people also drink very hard; but their favourite beverage is Rosolia, an Italian cordial, and it is not uncommon for visitors, when making calls, to give unequivocal hints that a little rum would be well received. Prostitutes are in large numbers, and are obliged (if known to be such) to live in a particular part of the town (called Zanga t'el Ghaab or quarter of the prostitutes), under a Chowse, or superintendent, appointed expressly for that purpose. These women are obliged daily to supply food for the Bashaw's dogs which guard the Arsenal.

A kind of bad Italian is generally spoken by the Inhabitants of the town; so that Christians have not much difficulty in transacting business.

I observed a singular custom to be prevalent amongst all Moors and Arabs, from the Bashaw down to the poorest cameldriver, which is that of eructation, and which they perform as often and as loudly as possible. Great men go through this ceremony with a solemnity and dignity altogether imposing; stroking their beards, and thanking God for the great relief they have obtained. Mukni (the Bashaw or Sultan of Tripoli) was quite a professor in this way; and his little son Yussuf (a boy of about eight years of age,) promised fair to be equally accomplished. Both of the last mentioned personages had also a peculiar way of blowing their noses in the ends of their turbans.

Mamlukes (who are either renegades, or purchased slaves from Georgia or Cireassia), enjoy the highest offices; and the Bashaw's daughters are not permitted to marry any others. The Admiral of the fleet is a Mamluke, a Scothman by birth, and now named Mourad Rais. He was in banishment during our stay at Tripoli; but we learnt from the Consul and chief people that he bore an excellent character.

The public Baths are of the same kind as those said to be used in Turkey and Egypt; although not so magnificent in point of ornament or size. The bather, on stripping, is girded round the middle with a linen cloth, and one also is thrown over the shoulders, which is taken off on entering the vapour chamber. This is a large circular room, having a dome, through which the light is admitted by many small holes well stopped with glass, and by which means the air is entirely excluded. The light is much obscured by the vapour, which constantly rises; lamps are therefore kept burning, those who first enter being for a time unable to see their way. Round the sides of the chamber are raised broad stone benches, and a large square place of the same description is in the centre; under these are the fires which heat the bath, and it is necessary to lie down on them in order to become ready for the operations of the men whose business it is to rub and clean the bathers. Water is then thrown over the body, so as to induce a quicker perspiration. The heat is excessive, and we had no Thermometer highly enough graduated to ascertain the temperature. When a sufficient time has elapsed to produce languor and strong perspiration, an assistant approaches and rubs the skin with a glove of hair, in such a way as to cause the cuticle to peel off in large dark rolls, however clean and white the skin may have appeared previously to this operation. He then proceeds to shampooing (called Temerse ). The operations having thus finished, some soap is brought to the bather, and he remains sitting under a spout of warm water as long as he pleases. Dry cloths are then brought to him, and being well wrapped up, he is conducted to an outer room, where pipes and coffee are placed before him, with incense to perfume the beard, after which he dresses and sallies out. The price for the bath alone, without soap, is about five pence; though it was always more expensive to us than to the natives. The men come in the morning, and the women in the afternoon.


<Travelling near Tripoli> ... We stopped at a nest, I cannot call it village, where all the habitations are under-ground. The Sheikh, on hearing we were under the protection of the Bashaw, came to welcome us, and gave us the only hut the place afforded, in which we placed our people and camel loads. As for ourselves, we preferred clearing part of the farm yard, and pitching our tent in it, surrounded by our horses and camels. This place is called Beni abbas. As the natives live, as I have observed, under-ground, a person unacquainted with the circumstance might cross the mountain without once suspecting that it was inhabited. All the dwelling-places being formed in the same manner, a description of the Sheikh's may suffice for the rest. The upper soil is sandy earth, of about four feet in depth; under this sand, and in some places limestone, a large hole is dug, to the depth of twenty-five or thirty feet, and its breadth in every direction is about the same, being as nearly as can be made, a perfect square. The rock is then smoothed so as to form perpendicular sides to this space, in which doors are cut through, and arched chambers excavated, so as to receive their light from the doors. These rooms are sometimes three or four of a side, in others a whole side composes one; the arrangements depending on the number of the inhabitants. In the open court is generally a well, water being found at about ten or twelve feet below the base of the square. The entrance to the house is at about thirty-six yards from the pit, and opens above ground. It is arched overhead; is generally cut in a winding direction, and is perfectly dark. Some of these passages are sufficiently large to admit a loaded camel. The entrance has a strong wall built over it, something resembling an ice-house. This is covered overhead, and has a very strong heavy door, which is shut at night, or in cases of danger. At about ten yards from the bottom is another door, equally strong, so that it is almost impossible to enter these houses, should the inhabitants determine to resist. Few Arab attacks last long enough to end in a siege. All their sheep and poultry being confined in the house at night, the Bashaw's army, when here, had recourse to suffocating the inmates, being unable to starve them out.

The mountain top spreads from this village on to a fine plain, of a mile or two in length, which is in the highest state of cultivation. Corn and saffron fields covered with venerable olive trees yield a delightful and novel prospect, to which the wildness of the surrounding mountains contributes its share. The elevated situation of these mountains prevents the cultivation of palms. Apple and almond trees were planted in such little ledges of the rocks as were too narrow for grain, and were at this time covered with blossoms. From a crag above the pass we had a most extensive view of the country over which we had travelled in coming from Tripoli. The Kelb Assoud, or Black Dog, lay north-east of us, about six miles on the plain below. All the remarkable places which we had traversed were quite distinguishable, and even a part of the sandy desert behind Tripoli; but the sea, which the natives said was often discernible, was hidden from us by the vapour arising from the sands.

The young men of the Douar, or village, took great delight in doing the honours of their beautiful country, jumping from rock to rock like goats, and appearing a most active, hardy set of people. My very limited knowledge of the language was a source of continual regret to me; and I believe the trip to these mountains caused me afterwards to apply with more assiduity to improve myself in it.

We returned with a keen appetite to our dinner, which consisted of bazeen, hard eggs, and mutton, and at which the Sheikh waited on us. The Chowse and our servant impudently volunteered their company, and became our messmates for the rest of the journey. The mutton and eggs being despatched, the broth, seasoned with plenty of red pepper, was poured scalding over the bazeen, and every one fell to work with extraordinary activity.

It is a point of great politeness with the Arabs to tear the meat for a stranger, as well as to squeeze up the bazeen with the sauce for him; and as this is sometimes done with rather unsavoury fingers, hunger becomes an absolute requisite to induce a novice to touch an Arab meal.


<travelling through the mountains near Tripoli> ... we here drank some camel's milk for the first time. It is much less rich than that of a cow, and saltish to the taste. We also procured a skin full of sour butter-milk, which is much esteemed by the Arabs, who call it Libban. It is never drank in a sweet state; but is allowed, after the butter is made, to stand until it tastes and smells very sour...


OF THE ARABS

The Arabs are, generally speaking, tall, straight, and well formed, and inclined, from their manner of living, to be thin and muscular. Their countenances are expressive and handsome, their form of face oval, and their noses aquiline. Although naturally white, their complexion becomes dark from continual exposure to the sun, and from not being very particular in their ablutions. They are active; capable of undergoing great fatigue and abstinence from food; lively in their manners; daring, and possessed of much cunning: though generous, they are great beggars; revengeful and unforgiving. The general costume of the men is a large loose shirt and trowsers of cotton, sandals, or tight half boots of red leather, which lace in front, fit close round the ankle, and rise as high as the calf of the leg. On their beads they wear a red cap, which is long enough to hang a little down on one side; from the top of it falls a tassel of blue silk. A wrapper of woollen (from about twenty to twenty-five feet in length, and five or six in breadth), woven rather more compactly than flannel, is thrown round the body in folds, part being placed over the head in the manner of a hood, while the end is thrown over the left shoulder, and hangs down behind the back. This article of dress has several names, according to its texture. The most coarse and heavy is called Aba. That between this and the finest (called Jereed) is named Kholi; but in Tripoli, all three are known under the appellation of Barracan. A large cloak, having a hood, and no sleeves, and composed of closely and well-woven wool without a seam, is used in rainy or cold weather over the Barracan, and is called Bornouse. The dress of the females differs but little from that of the men in materials, but they put it on in a different manner. The poorest class wear only the Barracan, which is passed over the head and fastened at the waist; others have a shirt in addition to this. Young women wear their hair in tresses, to which they attach beads, pieces of coral, silver, or any other gaudy thing which they can procure; and they have one or two large silver ornaments in the form of crescents, fastened on the right side of the head, on which they also frequently wear a large woollen turban of blue, wrapped carelessly round. From their ears are suspended a multitude of silver rings, and round their necks they hang rows of beads of various colours. The old women frizzle their hair over the forehead, so as to make it project to some distance; and they dye it of a dull red, with the leaves of a plant called Henna, which gives it the appearance of red wool. All the females have a practice of tattooing their chins, the tips of their noses, and between the eyebrows. Their necks and arms are also frequently marked. The favourite figure is that of a hand, which is intended to avert the "Evil Eye." They wear red lacing boots, in the same manner as the men. When young (that is to say, fifteen or sixteen), they have fine figures, and are exceedingly handsome; but they soon lose their good looks and pleasing form, and become as ugly as they were before beautiful. Their eyes are black and large; their noses straight and well proportioned; they have small lips, and their teeth are exquisitely white. Nothing, in fact, can exceed in prettiness an Arab girl; but the old women are, without exception, the most disgusting and hideous creatures I ever beheld. Both sexes blacken their eyelids with Kohol, or lead ore powdered, which adds much to the brilliancy of the eye, and makes it appear larger than it really is. They all wear an immense quantity of Agebs or Charms, against disorders and misfortunes.

The arms of the Arabs are the same as those of the natives of Tripoli, viz. guns, pistols, swords, and daggers. They are good shots, when able to rest their guns; but otherwise cannot easily manage them. The gun is slung over the shoulders, and the pistols are worn in a belt, which is hung round the body, and which contains the ammunition. They are constantly. armed with both these weapons; but the sword is seldom carried, unless when they ride on horseback ; it is then suspended by the side of the saddle, in such a way as to remain under the left leg, with the hilt near the pommel. They generally procure their powder and lead from Tripoli, though some possess the art of making a kind of inferior powder amongst themselves.

In the Tripoline dominions, and in Fezzan also, there are two kinds of Arabs, one wanderers, the other fixed residents in towns; those in towns (as Benioleed for example) travel much about the country, but always return to what they consider as their home. The wanderers have no permanent Place of abode, but remove their tents as pasturage or circumstances require. These tents are made of woollen, coarsely woven in long pieces and sewn together. They spread to a great breadth, but are not high; the entrance being about six feet, and the top sloping gradually down till it is fastened to the ground. They are so divided by means of mats or carpets, that the women have a separate Place from the men, and can be hidden from the gaze of strangers : they, however, so manage it, as to see without being themselves observed. These dwellings of the Arabs are called by their inhabitants, Beit el Shar, or "hair houses," and Nejja also. By means of bushes, almost every tent has an inclosure adjoining it, for securing sheep or goats at night; and stakes are driven in the ground, to which the horses are fastened, though sometimes these animals are allowed a portion of the tents of their masters. The Arabs are generous to their own kinsmen; and should a stranger come amongst them, they never deny him the rights of hospitality, provided they are themselves eating; but should that not be the case, they make no attempt to prepare food expressly for him an acquaintance, however, is always sure of a good reception.

The Bedouins of Barbary are not to be compared with those of Egypt, either for enterprise, ingenuity, or good qualities; since whatever they may have been, they are now, by the tyranny of their masters, fallen from their once high character, and are not in any respect better than slaves. One or two tribes are yet independent, but are likely soon to fall. Each tribe, or even set of tents, is governed by a Sheikh, who, being an old man, or one appointed by the Bashaw, is looked up to as a superior; though his business is chiefly to collect the requisite sums of money from his people. Some years back, these Sheikhs commanded their tribes in the wars of plunder, or in defence of their liberties, and were then chosen by the voice of the people, for their courage and military skill; but all offensive or defensive wars being now at an end, in consequence of their repeated and bloody overthrows by the Bashaw, the name of Sheikh has no honour attached to it. In some cases, indeed, individuals refuse to undertake the office, lest the Bashaw should make them responsible for any faults committed by their followers.

In their Religion, the Arabs are great bigots, very superstitious, and easily alarmed about the enchantments and wiles of Iblis (or the devil), to whom they attribute many of their misfortunes and illnesses. To the prayers enjoined by the Koran they are very attentive, and, unless in travelling, never omit repeating them at the appointed periods. Of the name and attributes of God they never speak without reverence; and they have a profound respect for Idiots, whom they consider as people beloved of Heaven, and totally unable to think of the things of this world.

Marriages are contracted in most instances without either party having seen the other, the agreement being entirely on the part of the parents of the bride, and the bridegroom, the consent of the females never being asked. There are certain marriage presents which are always given by the husband to the relations of his wife, so that he may be said to purchase her of them. Though four wives are allowed to all Mohammedans, the Arabs very rarely possess so many, few having more than two, and some only one.

It is not their custom to have Negresses living with them, which may be accounted for by their dislike to being considered as the fathers of children of colour. The settled Arabs are not so scrupulous; but are, notwithstanding, more so than the Moors. The ceremony observed in conducting a bride to her husband is very singular; and having myself been an eye-witness of it, I made a drawing representing the camel used on such occasions, with its gay trappings.

A frame being fixed on the back of the animal, the bride is placed in it, and, while thus sitting, is housed over with carpets, shawls, and ostrich feathers. In travelling from place to place, or in searching for pasture ground, the people make use of these frames; but they are in such cases generally uncovered, and have baskets, or other frame-work, attached to their sides, in which the young children are placed. An Arab family on its march presents a very extraordinary appearance, the camels being laden with tents, cooking utensils, women, and children. The men walk, driving their flocks before them, or ride their horses, frequently without bridle or saddle. Should the journey exceed one day, a temporary tent is erected at night; and at the dawn of morning, all is again placed on the camels. The operation of erecting or taking down one of their hair houses does not occupy much time, as the women always assist the men on these occasions. The dogs guard the flocks during the night, and are very fierce. In colour they are white, resembling wolves in form, and having long bushy tails. They howl rather than bark, and with great apparent courage attack every stranger who approaches them, though when threatened with a stick or stone, they run yelping away. It frequently happens, that the spot fixed on as a temporary residence is far distant from any well, sometimes even three days of the ordinary march of flocks; yet this does not dishearten the persevering Arab, who, notwithstanding, drives his sheep once a week to drink. They feed as they go and come, and therefore do not suffer much on their long journey. The wants of the people are easily supplied; a few skins of water being brought at stated times by a camel, and economised with great care. I have remarked, that not only the Arabs and their camels, but all animals in this country have the power of remaining a great length of time without water. Sheep, (provided they have tolerable herbage), will pass even a month without drinking. Antelopes and buffaloes, I should conceive, in some cases never taste water, none being found on the surface of the desert, and they are unable to obtain that which is in the wells. On the other hand, wolves, hyenas, foxes, and jackals, are less capable of enduring thirst. They descend such wells (or more properly pits) as are not deep; and the vicinity of one of these places is frequently ascertained from observing the tracks of animals, which, during the night, go there to drink.

The Bedouins sow their scanty stock of corn, after turning up the earth with a rude plough, or more generally with a hoe. These cultivated spots are respected by other wanderers, and the corn is rarely stolen; should the Bashaw, indeed, be at war with the Arabs, he never fails to destroy their crops. When a sufficient time has elapsed to allow of the grain being in a state of maturity, those to whom it belongs come and gather in their harvest (sometimes before it is perfectly ripe), lest the Bashaw should be informed of the circumstance, and deprive them of a larger portion than they can afford; emissaries, indeed, are never wanting, who make it their business to ascertain the exact time when the corn is to be cut, and then pounce on the poor Arabs for the Bashaw's share of it. To avoid such taxes, therefore, they sometimes gather it so prematurely, that it will not serve as seed for the ensuing year. When the date season commences, many, families come and pitch their tents in the Meshea of Tripoli, in order to purchase dates for their future subsistence; these they deprive of the stones, and when kneaded together, keep them in skins, so as to preserve them from insects or wet: these form their chief support, assisted by the milk of their sheep and camels. That of the camel, as I have before noticed, is thin, of a bluish colour (resembling cow's milk mixed with water), and rather salt to the taste; it throws up no cream, but soon coagulates like new curds. The ewe milk is excellent, but is never drank fresh, the Arabs preferring it sour, or, more properly, as butter-milk. The flocks are milked morning and night into large bowls, and when a sufficient quantity is thus collected, it is poured into skins, without much attention being paid to its cleanliness, when by shaking and rolling it about, butter is procured, and generally attaches itself to the side of the skin; the milk being then strained from it into other vessels, is allowed to grow sour, and a quantity of butter being produced, it is boiled with a little salt until it becomes like oil, and is then poured into goat-skins, and is fit for use or market.

Cheese is procured by turning the milk with a certain herb (the name of which I have forgotten), and the curds, being salted, are spread out to dry in the sun, when they resemble little crums, and are very pleasant to the taste. I did not see any other kind of cheese than the one I have mentioned, and this is rather scarce, and used as a luxury in many of their little messes. Sometimes it is toasted, and has a very agreeable flavour. It is called Jibn.

A great article of commerce is the fat which the shepherds procure from the sheep they kill. They cut it from every part of the body, salt it, and lay it by until a large quantity is collected, when, whether putrid or not, they boil it, until it bear some resemblance to the grease used by tallow-chandlers ; it is then poured into skins, and is fit for use. In the interior it sells at about a shilling a pound; but at Tripoli it is much cheaper. It is put into almost every article of food by the Arabs, and though not very savoury, we soon became accustomed to its taste. It is called Shahm. From the wool of their sheep, the women make strong barracans, carpets, shirts, turbans, and many ornaments. Their tents too are made of wool and goats' hair, as are also sacks, which are used to carry corn and merchandise on the camels. Mats and ornaments of palm leaves or grass are neatly made. Their dyes are generally brilliant; black, blue, red, and orange; in fact, every colour excepting green, which they find much difficulty in producing; though at Tripoli the dyers succeed very well in it. The looms of the Arab women are on the ground; they have no shuttles, but with much trouble pass the threads through with their fingers, generally lightening their labour with songs. The men seldom work while in their tents, and their time seems to hang much heavier on their hands than that of the women, who with cooking and other domestic employments are generally pretty well occupied. No woman eats in the presence of a man, and wives always wait on their husbands.

The domestic animals consist of poultry, sheep, goats, camels, horses, and dogs: they all live under the same canopy as their masters, and are on good terms amongst themselves. The horses are perfectly quiet, being brought up with the children of the family. They would be a fine race, but that the want of good food prevents their acquiring a handsome appearance; add to which, the ambition of possessing well fed and comely animals does not now exist; for should any of the Bashaw's people wish to appropriate a fine horse, the owner dares not refuse to sell him, at whatever low price may be offered. Still, however, many of the Arabs breed them expressly for the market, bringing them while foals for sale. I have seen some of them brought in this way, which, when taken care of, became remarkably handsome, and unlike the generality belonging to the Bedouins. In the bazaars at Tripoli I have sometimes observed very fine ones, which were brought from the Desert, and sold for forty or fifty dollars (about eleven or twelve pounds sterling) a piece. All have long tails, and are entire; a great defect is, however, almost general amongst them, in consequence of their being mounted when too young; which is, that their backs are very hollow, and their hind quarters appear higher than their fore. Colts of twelve months are frequently seen, staggering beneath the weight of a heavy man, his arms, water skin, and food. The Arabs consider a large belly as very handsome; and some horses, from the nature of their food, acquire such rotundity in this-respect, that they appear like mares in foal.

A light mane and tail on a chesnut horse is considered unlucky; the colour, though common, is not much admired, and the feet of such animals are accounted soft and tender. Bay is the favourite colour next to light grey, which is much in request, the Bashaw generally riding horses of this description.

Much importance is attached to the manner in which the legs are coloured, stockinged horses being in the extremes of good or bad luck, according to the disposition of the white. If both forelegs are marked, it is good; if one hind and one fore leg are marked on the same side, it is very unlucky; or if one alone is white, it is equally unfortunate; but if opposite legs (off fore and near hind) are light, nothing can be more admired. Ridiculous as these fancies may appear, they nevertheless influence the price of horses, sometimes to even a sixth of their value.

In sandy parts of the desert shoeing is never used; but where the animals are to pass over mountains, it is absolutely necessary.

The Arab shoes are ... formed ... turning up behind; and are, in general, so badly put on, that there are few horses to be found which have not been injured in their feet. The Arab's forge is simple, and almost every man is his own blacksmith. A small mud or clay wall is built to the height of a foot or eighteen inches; a hole is then made even with the ground, and an iron pipe introduced. To this are attached two skins, which open at the upper end by means of two sticks, having a small leather handle on each: the thumb is passed through one of these, and the fingers through the other; so that the hand easily opens and shuts the skin. The mouth being closed, the skin is pressed down, and throws a strong blast through the pipe. It is again opened and lifted up, when it is once more ready. Thus, alternately with each hand, the current of air is kept up to the fire which lies over the pipe. Camel's dung is used when charcoal cannot be procured, and gives a very strong heat. The anvil is a small square-ended piece of iron, which is sunk in a log of wood, and partly buried in the sand. An ordinary hammer, and a pair or two of pincers, complete the apparatus.

The mill is equally simple, being composed of two circular stones, one of which lies flat on the other, and is turned by a small handle placed on it; this is fixed by a pivot from the lower one, and has a hole in the centre, through which it is supplied with grain.

The messes made with flour are few, and may be thus enumerated: Cusscussou, Bazeen, Dweeda, Atila, Mogatta, Zumeita, Bread, Fetaat. Cusscussou being a dish very generally mentioned in all books of travels, I shall attempt to describe the manner in which it is made; and I trust I may be allowed, however trifling the subject, to mention in the same manner the other articles of food, as I believe they are at present only known by name.

The corn for Cusscussou is ground expressly to the state which is called Semolina in Italy, and used also under that name in England. The hand being clean washed, and a large wooden bowl prepared, a portion of semolina is thrown into it with the right hand; it is turned quickly round under the palm, while from the left, water is occasionally sprinkled upon the mass, together with dry semolina. In a short time, by turning it constantly the same way, the flour adheres in little granules, like bread crums; and by a dexterous motion of the hand, is prevented from forming into large lumps. When finished, the grains resemble small shot in size, and stick closely together, without danger of again falling into flour on being dried. They will keep good in this state nearly as long as corn. When Cusscussou is to be prepared for eating, it is put in a basket, or tin vessel having holes in the bottom, and steamed over meat, or boiling water, care being taken to stir it occasionally, so as to prevent its caking. When sufficiently done, meat is poured on with its gravy, or a little butter or grease mixed with it; should meat be wanting, a good quantity of red pepper and salt are frequently all its auxiliaries.

Bazeen (which in Fezzan is called Aseeda) is the most common food, as being the easiest prepared. It is made of the flour of any grain (Bishna and Barley are mostly used near Tripoli) in the following manner. A large pot, of copper or iron, is placed on the fire, with a little water in it, which is suffered to boil. Flour is then thrown in, until it acquires the consistency of dough, when it is stirred well about with a large stick (water being occasionally added, if necessary,) until it is quite thick, and begins to assume the appearance of a pudding, when it is taken out, and placed in a bowl. After being beat into a circular shape, and having a hole made in the centre, gravy, oil, butter, or grease, is poured on it, and it is then ready for eating, which is done by pinching pieces out with the right hand, and kneading them with the grease until they assume the appearance of thick paste. Should there be no gravy or grease to be procured, a little flour mixed with hot water is used instead of it. It requires much strength of arm to make bazeen properly, as the stick is wielded by both hands, and the pot is confined on the fire by having a forked piece of wood placed against it, on which the woman kneels while preparing the mess.

Dweeda is moulded in the shape of little seeds, not quite so large as the grains of rice; but oblong, and much resembling them. A stiff dough being prepared, the women very expeditiously pinch it out between their fingers and thumbs into this form. It is then allowed to dry; and is considered a great dainty when boiled, and a little butter poured over it.

Atila is composed much in the same way; but is longer, and much resembles small macaroni broken in pieces. It is also boiled in the same manner as Dweeda.

Mogatta is made of paste, by being beaten and turned between the hands, until it is as thin as a pancake ; it is then laid in the sun to harden a little. When it becomes sufficiently crisp to break, it is crumbled in pieces, and boiled until it resembles thick porridge, the larger always remaining entire. A sufficient quantity of fat and pepper completes it.

Zumeeta is made of barley, which has been a little malted; it is then ground into flour, and sometimes dates are pounded with it.

In this state it remains until it is to be used; when a little cold water being mixed with it until it becomes like dough, it is fit for eating. Oil is much used with it, by dipping the Zumeeta in it when formed into mouthfuls for eating. This is almost the only stock which Arabs provide on going a journey, as it is easily prepared, and very nourishing.

Bread is made as in Europe. It is leavened with flour, or a preparation f dates, moulded into little cakes shaped like buns. The ovens are generally formed in the ground: a hole is made about two feet in depth, and in the shape of a large jar, contracted at the mouth; it is then encrusted inside with clay. Wood is thrown in and burnt, until a thick layer of glowing ashes is collected at the bottom, and the oven is thoroughly heated; the loaves are then put in by a woman, who bares and wets her arm, and sticks them against the side with great dexterity: when done enough, if not speedily taken off, they fall into the embers. Sometimes meat is dressed in these ovens; a kind of crumpet, also, called Fetaat, made in the same way as Mogatta, but without leaven, is slightly baked in them; one of these crumpets is then placed in a bowl, and soup and vegetables are poured over it; another is then put in, and soup added as before, and so on in successive layers, until the bowl is full. All these messes are eaten with the fingers.

There is great variety in the manner of dressing meat, which is stewed, boiled, or baked; but for journeys the Arabs have a very good way of preserving it, by cutting it into thin slices, drying it in the sun, and afterwards stewing it in fat. I have often observed them eating small grasses, which they found as they pursued their journey; and to my inquiries how they knew them to be innoxious, the general reply was, that whatever an animal which chewed its cud could eat with safety, must be food for man. There is a species of dandelion, very bitter, and exuding a white juice, which is much liked by the sheep as well as their masters. The taste at first is very unpleasant; but I soon became accustomed to it. The Colocynth apple grows in great quantities in some parts of the Desert, and is almost the only medicine used by the Arabs. Burning is always had recourse to, and many of them are in consequence covered with scars; it is also occasionally used to show the force of love; and both sexes practise it when they wish to give proof of very strong affection.

Wolves, young dogs, cats, and hedgehogs, though forbidden animals, are not unfrequently eaten by sick persons, from a belief that their flesh is medicinal, or, as they express it, "Doua." Charms are much worn, and are procured from such as are considered Mariiboots amongst themselves, or from the Scribes of Tripoli. It is not enough that the man should be defended by these little prayers sewed up in leather, and attached to his arms or body; but his horse, gun, sword, and red cap must be equally protected with himself. The "Evil Eye" is of all other mischiefs most dreaded, and for a stranger to express particular admiration of a child, a horse, or any other valuable, is to bring on it or its possessor certain misfortune; this may, however, be averted by passing over the object a finger wetted with saliva, or by the equally efficacious charm of an open band, either attached to the clothes as an ornament, or tattooed on the skin. It is remarkable that no Arab will take a knife or scissars from the hands of any one, as (from some superstitious prejudice) such an action is considered highly unfortunate; but they require that the instrument should be first laid on the ground, whence they readily take it up without fear.

The Arabs have but few amusements beyond Dancing and a Game called Helga, which resembles draughts, and is played with camels' dung or date stones, in holes made in the sand. The noise uttered by these people at their festivals, or on any joyful occasion, is most extraordinary; and being very shrill, it may be heard at a great distance, particularly if several persons join in chorus: it is a piercing cry from the throat (the mouth being quite open), to which a tremulous sound is given by a rapid motion of the tongue from side to side; it is very enlivening, and when it becomes familiar to the ear, far from disagreeable.

The manner of salutation used amongst the Arabs is particularly striking, and certainly not ungraceful. Friends on meeting, seize each the right hand of the other, then loosen and apply the tips of their fingers to their mouths, afterwards laying the open hand on the heart, they press it and gently incline the head at the same time. Very intimate acquaintances mutually lift their joined right hands in such a manner that each kisses the back of the other's hand, repeating with the greatest rapidity, "How are you? well, how are you? Thank God, how are you? God bless you, how are you?" which compliments in a well bred man never last less than ten minutes; and whatever may be the conversation afterwards, it is a mark of great good breeding occasionally to interrupt it, bowing solemnly and asking, "How are you?" though an answer to the question is by no means considered necessary, as he who asks it is perhaps looking another way, and thinking of something else. I must not omit to mention a particular instance of good breeding which I met with amongst these people: a man begged me one day to reach him a piece of straw which lay near me, that he might take out of a cup of water a bird which had fallen into it. I perceived, however, that it was only a Fly; and was afterwards informed that they consider it disrespectful to make use of the word Fly in presence of a superior.

The questions asked and observations made by some of the inland Arabs respecting our country were very curious; amongst other extraordinary fancies, they have an idea, originating in the name given to the Atlantic, Bahr el blem, sea of darkness, that we have no Sun or Moon in the countries which are in the sea, and in consequence, they imagine that our ships sail about with great lanterns attached to them. They also believe that Christians use the milk of pigs as a beverage, and in fact, that it forms their chief subsistence. That we have horses, cows, and sheep, is not at all credited by them; and that our country should be destitute of dates excites their greatest commiseration ...


<The town of Sockna> ... Sockna stands on an immense plain of gravel; bounded to the south by the Soudah mountains, at about fifteen miles; by the mountains of Wadan about thirty miles to the eastward; a distant range to the west; and those I have already mentioned on passing through to the north. The town is walled, and may contain 2000 persons: more than half the people we saw this day were from Hoon and Wadan. There are small projections from the walls, having loop-holes for musketry. It has seven gates, only one of which will admit a loaded camel. The streets are very narrow, and the houses are built of mud and small stones mixed, many of them having a story above the ground floor. A small court is open in the centre; and the windows, or more properly the doors, which open from this area, give the only light which the rooms receive. The water of Sockna is almost all brackish or bitter. There are 200,000 date trees in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, which pay duty; also an equal number, not yet come into bearing, which are exempt. These dates grow in a belt of sand, at about two or three miles distant from the town, and are of a quality far superior to any produced in the north of Africa. Owing to their excellence, they are sold at a very high price at Tripoli. The adjoining country is entirely destitute of shrubs, or any kind of food for camels, which are therefore sent to graze about five miles off; while in the town all animals are fed on dates. Sheep are brought here from Benioleed, and are, in consequence of coming from such a distance, very dear. In the gardens, which are about three miles from the town, barley, maize, and gussob, are cultivated, as well as a few onions, turnips, and peppers. The quantity of flies here is immense, and all the people carry little flappers, made of bunches of wild bulls' hair, tied to a short stick, in order to keep these pests at a distance. The dates all being deposited in storehouses in the town, may account, in some degree, for the multitude of these insects ; which, in a few minutes, fill every dish or bowl containing any liquid. The duties paid by this place amount to 2000 dollars annually, exclusive of a tax of one dollar on each two hundred date trees. All the people attached to the Sultan, and ourselves also, received food twice a day from the Sheikh, who collected it from the inhabitants; our horses likewise got a daily portion of dates.

The costume here is the same as that of the Bedouins, consisting generally of a shirt and barracan, a red cap, and sandals: a few, whose circumstances allow of it, dress in the costume of Tripoli. The neat appearance of the men, in general, is very striking, compared with that of the Arabs about the coast. The women are considered exceedingly handsome; indeed, one or two whom I saw at Fatma's were really so, and as fair as Europeans; but they are noted for their profligacy and love of intrigue.

<The town of Hoon> ... It is a smaller town than Sockna, but walled, and built in the same manner: its palms and gardens are close to the walls. It has three gates, three mosques, and a large building which is dignified with the name of a castle, although it does not appear even to have a loophole for musketry. The inhabitants, having about three hundred muskets, came out to welcome Yussuf, and we met with the same boisterous reception as was given a few days before to the Sultan. A number of dancing women performed in the court of the house in which we were assembled, the greatest part of the day; and in the evening the slaves joined the concert with their cymbals. The whole was so completely to the taste of Mukni's men, and continued so long, that the performers were literally tired out. When they came to request corn or money from the spectators, it was to us they first applied, as considering us the greatest personages ; but we were so poor, in despite of our fine garments, that we actually had nothing to give, which disappointed and astonished them much.

In the burying-grounds near the town we observed that nearly all the graves were ornamented with one or more ostrich eggs, as were the doors and angles of the mosques, and their enclosures. We entered the tomb of a Maraboot, and standing near the grave, recited the "Fatha" aloud. In the evening, we visited the gardens, which are close to the town, the latter being completely hidden from the view by the thick palms which surround it. The soil is sand, but the grain was in the most luxuriant state of forwardness, owing to its being constantly refreshed by little channels from the wells the water of which is brackish.

<The town of Wadan> ... the town is not walled, and appears very inferior to the other two <Hoon and Sockna> in point of neatness, comfort, and convenience, though its aspect is much more Pleasing, as it is built on a conical hill, on the top of which are some enclosed houses, called the Castle. Here there is a well of great depth, cut through the solid rock, and evidently not the work of the Bedouins. One of the Shreefs took us into a mosque, that we might examine a curious stone, bearing an Arabic inscription in raised letters, and, from its date, it must have been above six hundred years old. It was let into the mud wall, but no one knew where it had been found. Mr. Ritchie did not attempt to copy it, as we were not yet enough acquainted with the customs of the Arabs to know if it would be permitted. The tombs and mosques, as at Hoon, were ornamented with quantities of ostrich eggs.

The natives of Wadan are Arabs of the tribe Moajer, who chiefly spend their time in attending their flocks at the Syrtis, and resident shreefs, or descendants of the Prophet; the latter forming the greater part of the population. There is a chain of mountains, a few miles east of the town, called also Wadan, on account of the immense number of buffaloes to be found there, and which are of three species; viz. the Wadan, an animal of the size of an ass, having very large horns, short reddish hide, and large bunches of hair hanging from each shoulder, to the length of eighteen inches or two feet: they have very large heads, and are very fierce. The Bogra el Weish, which is a red buffalo, slow in its motions, having large horns, and being of the size of an ordinary cow; and the white buffalo of a lighter and more active make, very shy and swift, and not easily procured. The calving time of these animals is in April or May. There are also in these mountains great quantities of ostriches, by hunting which many of the natives subsist. All the Arabs here agree respecting the manner in which these birds sit on their eggs, and which I was not before aware of.

They are not left to be hatched by the warmth of the sun, but the parent bird forms a rough nest, in which she covers from fourteen to eighteen eggs, and regularly sits on them in the same manner as the common fowl does on her chickens; the male occasionally relieving the female. It is during the breeding season that the greatest numbers are procured, the Arabs shooting the old ones while on their nests. At all the three towns, Sockna, Hoon, and Wadan, it is the custom to keep tame ostriches in a stable, and in two years, to take three cuttings of their feathers. I imagine, from what I have seen of the skins of ostriches brought for sale, that all the fine feathers sent to Europe are from tame birds; the wild ones being generally so ragged and torn, that not above half a dozen good perfect ones can be found. The white feathers are what I allude to; the black, being shorter and more flexible, are generally good. All the camels belonging to these people are sent to the Syrtis, to pasture; a distance of about five days' journey. It sometimes occurs, that after a great deal of rain has fallen, the plains beyond the Wadan mountains acquire sufficient verdure to feed the cattle for a few weeks.


<A desert journey with a slave kaffle> April 24th. ... We did not see, any where, the least appearance of vegetation; but observed many skeletons of animals, which had died of fatigue on the Desert, and occasionally the grave of some human being. All these bodies were so dried by the extreme heat of the sun, that putrefaction did not appear to have taken place after death. In recently expired animals I could not perceive the slightest offensive smell; and in those long dead, the skin, with the hair on it, remained unbroken and perfect, although so brittle as to break with a slight blow. The sand-winds never cause these carcasses to change their places, as in a short time a slight mound is formed round them and they become stationary.

At 5.50. we passed low table-topped hills east and west of us, called El Gaaf. The desert was named Sbir ben Afeen. At seven we encamped. The plain round us presented so perfect a horizon, that an astronomical observation might have been taken as at sea. From the excessive dryness of the air, our blankets and barracans emitted electric sparks, and crackled distinctly on being rubbed. The horses' tails, also, in beating off the flies, had the same effect. Our whole Kaffle were much fatigued. This day we had advanced south-south-west, thirty-five miles.

April 25th ... At nine we entered a wadey, called Om el Abeed (the Mother of the Slaves), and at eleven arrived at a well of the same name, situated amongst the mountains, and having a quantity of bushes growing about it.

We found here two large flocks of sheep and goats. on the way to Morzouk from Benioleed. We had supposed some flocks were ahead of us, five or six sheep having been picked up by the Kaffle, while still alive, but unable to walk, and had, therefore, been left to perish. At twelve the camels arrived, having travelled twenty hours, or above forty-eight miles, south-southwest. The wind was south during the whole day, bringing with it such showers of burning sand, as almost to smother us. We frequently lost our track, and were unable to distinguish objects at the distance even of a few yards. The flatness of the country offering no opposition to the wind, we were exposed to all its fury. The little children of the liberated negroes walked all this day, suffering most severely, their heads being shaved, and constantly exposed to the burning heat of the sun. One of the poor women was taken in labour in the afternoon, and we were obliged to tie her on a camel to prevent her falling off, and being left on the road to perish. We had arrived at this place so late at night as to be unable to prepare any thing to eat.


<Description of the Tuareg> ... Many parties of Tuarick came with their slaves and goods, during the last month, (July), from Kashna, Aghades, and Ghraat. They are the finest race of men I ever saw; tall, straight, and handsome, with a certain air of independence and pride, which is very imposing. They are generally white, that is to say, comparatively so; the dark brown of their complexions only being occasioned by the heat of the climate. Their arms or bodies, (where constantly covered), are as white as those of many Europeans. Their costume is very remarkable, and they cover their faces as high as the eyes, in the manner of women on the sea-coast. Their original motive for so doing is now forgotten; but they say it must be right, as it was the fashion of their forefathers. This covering extends as high as half way up the bridge of the nose, from whence it hangs down below the chin on the breast, much in the same way (but longer) as crape or lace is hung to a lady's half mask. This cloth is generally of blue glazed cotton; but yellow, red, white, and many other colours are worn according to taste, or the ability of the wearer to purchase them. The beard is kept close clipped, so as not to interfere with the covering which is tied behind; their red caps are generally very high, but some wear yellow or green ones, fitted close to the head: others have no caps at all but leave their hair to grow, and plait it in long tresses. All wear turbans, which are never of any fixed colour: blue is the most common and cheap; but gaudy hues are preferred. A large loose shirt (having the sleeves the same size as the body), called Tobe, is the common dress; it is of cotton, generally blue, or blue and white, and is of their own manufacture, although some wear those of Soudan, which are considered the best that are made. The merchants generally dress very gaudily while in the towns, wearing kaftans of bright red cloth, or very gay silk and cotton striped, which they procure from the Tripoline traders. A leather kaftan is also much worn, of their own manufacture, as are leather shirts of the skins of antelopes, very neatly sewed, and well prepared. Their trowsers are not made so full as those of the Moors, as they would in that case be much encumbered in riding their maherries : they rather resemble those called Cossack trowsers, and are made of cotton stuff, dark blue being the most common. Their sandals are the most elegant part of their dress, being made of black leather, with scarlet thongs to brace them to the feet. The ornamental needle-work on the inside of the sole is really admirable. They all wear a whip, hanging from a belt passed over the left shoulder by the right side. Their swords are straight and of great length, and they wield them with much ease and dexterity. From the left wrist is suspended a dagger, with the hilt towards the hand; it has a broad leather ring attached to the scabbard, and through this the hand is passed. No Tuarick is ever seen without this appendage, and a light elegant spear, sometimes entirely of iron, inlaid with brass; others are of wood, but are also highly ornamented. These weapons are about six feet in length, and are thrown to a great distance. In making war, they have three longer and heavier spears, and a strong lance, which are fastened behind the saddle. Along gun is also generally carried; and these people are considered sure marksmen. They are, if possible, more superstitious than the natives of Fezzan; some of them being literally covered with charms against disorders and accidents, which they wear round their arms, legs, necks, across the breast, and in fact wherever they can find a place for them. Their spears and guns have also their due allowance, and in the folds of the turbans are always hidden a number of holy writings. Some wear large silver cases tied round the head, containing charms against the devil. Their language is the Breber, or original African tongue, still spoken in the mountains behind Tunis, in some parts of Morocco, and at Socka, where it is called Ertana. On a future occasion I shall give a small vocabulary of it. They are very proud of the antiquity of their language, which some have told me was spoken by Noah, in preference to any other. They never kiss the hand as other Mohammedans do, not even that of the Sultan himself, but advance, and, taking the hand, shake it, and then retire, standing erect, and looking him full in the face--a striking contrast of manners to that of the natives of Fezzan. No people have more aversion to washing than the Tuarick generally have; some, after having equipped themselves in a new suit of blue, become so stained for a time as to appear of the same complexion as their garments. Even in performing their necessary purifications, which require that a man should wash in a particular way before his prayers, they avoid water, and make use of sand. Many attempts were made by us to discover the reason why they kept themselves in such a dirty state; but to all our inquiries we obtained nearly the same answers: "God never intended that man should injure his health, if he could avoid it: water having been given to man to drink, and cook with, it does not agree with the skin of a Tuarick, who always falls sick after much washing." There are some, however, who do wash, and ridicule the dirty ones; but these are comparatively few. They are Moslem, and their prayers are in Arabic, of which language many do not understand a syllable; those who do pray (and there are many who do not) only repeat their belief, viz. "There is no God but God, and Mohammed is his prophet," and know very little besides of their religion. They inhabit that immense tract of country, known in maps under the name of Sahara, or the Great Desert, and are of numerous tribes, some of whom have no settled habitations, but wander like the Arabs, and subsist by plunder. They are not cruel on these occasions, provided they meet with no resistance; but should the party attacked attempt to defend themselves, their death is certain.

The Tuarick, or more properly tribes of them, are always at war with the Soudan states, and carry off from them incalculable numbers of slaves. They are so completely masters of their weapons, and so very courageous, that they are much dreaded, which enables them to traverse unmolested, and in very small bodies, countries full of armed people. Each tribe has some peculiarity in its dress, or manner of riding and making war. The nearest Tuarick to Fezzan are at Ghraat, which is ten days from Morzouk, and from Oubari, the most western village in the Wadey Shiati.


... At the end of this month, a large Kaffle of Arabs, Tripolines, and Tibboo, arrived from Bornou, bringing with them 1400 slaves of both sexes and of all ages, the greater part being females. Several smaller parties had preceded them, many of whom also brought slaves. We rode out to meet the great kaffle, and to see them enter the town-it was indeed a piteous spectacle! These poor oppressed beings were, many of them, so exhausted as to be scarcely able to walk; their legs and feet were much swelled, and by their enormous size, formed a striking contrast with their emaciated bodies. They were all borne down with loads of fire-wood; and even poor little children, worn to skeletons by fatigue and hardships, were obliged to bear their burthen, while many of their inhuman masters rode on camels, with the dreaded whip suspended from their wrists, with which they, from time to time, enforced obedience from these wretched captives. Care was taken, however, that the hair of the females should be arranged in nice order, and that their bodies should be well oiled, whilst the males were closely shaven, to give them a good appearance on entering the town. Their dresses were simply the usual cotton wrappers, and even these, in many instances, were so torn, as scarcely to cover them. We observed one girl (of what country I know not) who had her back and shoulders burned in little sprigs, in a very curious manner, so as to resemble figured silk; it had a very pretty appearance, and must have been done when she was quite an infant. Some of the women carried little children on their backs, some of whom were so small, that they must have been born on the road.

The Tibboo, who bring the slaves from Bornou, are of the tribes on the road; and some are from Fezzan. They never trade to Soudan, on account of the distance; but prefer exchanging their slaves for horses, which they sell to great advantage in the interior: for though there are horses in Bornou, they are not much esteemed; but those of Tripoli are greatly valued. The Tibboo ride on saddles, resembling in some respects our English ones; but they are smaller, and have a high peak in front: their stirrups resemble ours, but they do not put the whole foot in them, only the four small toes, the great one remaining out; their shoes are an contrived for this purpose, by having a separate division for a great toe, and are made in the same manner as childrens' mittens. Their bridles are also in our style, being much lighter than those of the Arabs. They are more careful of their horses than of their families, sparing no expense to fatten them; this is done by cramming them with large balls of meal or dough, which are considered highly nourishing. A fine horse will, in the Negro country, sell for 10 or 15 Negresses; each of which, at the Barbary ports, is worth from 80 to 150 dollars.

All the traders speak of slaves as farmers do of cattle. Those recently brought from the interior were fattening, in order that they might be able to go on to Tripoli, Benghazi, or Egypt: thus a distance of 1600 or 1800 miles, is to be traversed, from the time these poor creatures are taken from their homes, before they can be settled; whilst in the Interior they may, perhaps, be doomed to pass through the hands of eight or ten masters, who treat them well or ill, according to their pleasure. These devoted victims fondly hoping that each new purchaser may be the last, find perhaps that they have again to commence a journey equally long and dreary with the one they have just finished, under a burning sun, with new companions, but with the same miseries.

The females are always considered as bearing fatigue much better than the males; perhaps because their small allowance of food and water more easily suffices them. I have always observed that the men were more miserable in their appearance, and walked with more difficulty than the women.


... All nations south of the Waters are said <by the Muslims of Tripoli and area> to be unbelievers, and to live in a state of nature, resembling in their appearance, manners, and habitations, wild beasts rather than men.

The Moslems have a greater share of superstition and vices than those they call their blind neighbours, and seldom undertake any thing without being first fortified by charms. They are constantly fancying themselves bewitched, attribute every unpleasant occurrence to Iblis; and are so fearful of the "Evil Eye," that they adopt many strange precautions to avert its baneful effects.

In justice to the poor unenlightened beings whom they make their prey, I must say that I never witnessed such innocence, tenderness, and mildness as most of them evince when brought to Morzouk, particularly at the death of any of their companions in adversity. On these occasions they do not, like their persecutors, scream and make an insincere wailing; but sit silent and in tears, and often refuse their little allowance of food. Should one of the females fall sick, the others nurse, feed, comfort, and very often give up the whole of their scanty meal to the sufferer. I speak merely of the women, for the men are not blessed with very kind hearts; and it would be considered by them as disgraceful to betray any soft and tender reeling. Should a woman have an infant belonging to her, each of her companions in turn will carry and endeavour to amuse it. The women very seldom become sullen, and are lively without being at all boisterous or noisy; they are clean in their persons, very fond of ornaments, tractable and easily taught; but in acquiring knowledge they unfortunately lose much of their native simplicity.


<Articles of Commerce between Fezzan and the Interior, as well as to Egypt, Bornou, and Waday>

THE ARTICLES OF COMMERCE CARRIED FROM FEZZAN TO SOUDAN

BORNOU, AND WADAY, ARE-

Beads. The following kinds are at present in fashion: Mjeddrah el Baida (white smallpox); of white china, having raised spots on them. Erwandadi; transparent, oval, and dark blue. Koon. tombali; red, transparent, having white streaks and figures, of an oval form. Khorz el Adi; small beads of opaque glass, all colours. Menjura; large octagonal beads of red, white, and green. The white are at present preferred: a fowl is purchased for a bead of this kind. Khabba Jedeeda; black oval beads, having white or light blue rings on them. Guttuf ; the smallest size, of all colours mixed. Dhab el Mesquin (or poor man's gold); black china beads, having yellow spots raised on them. Bandeaus of beads and necklaces ready made. I have been thus particular for the information of future travellers, as the beads we took with us were unsaleable, and the above are always to be purchased at Tripoli.

Coral. Morgian Teddoo, small coral in strings, in beads, in the rough, and in necklaces.

Needles. Four of which purchase a fine fowl.

Silk. Damask, and all light silks of a gaudy colour: if they have flowers worked on them, they sell much better; sewing silk, or raw silk, and ribbons of various colours.

Red cloth, of a coarse kind, and brings an equally high price with the kerseymere we had with us. Salisbury flannels would sell very well.

Red As turbans, and a few having fine borders, which are sold to the chiefs. Our invitation shawls would be highly prized: the more red they had in them, the better.

Copper pots and kettles, tinned inside.

Brass basin. If a little ornamented, so much the better. Flat ones are preferred.

Looking-glasses. In stamped brass and other gaudy frames; and a small kind in little brass boxes called Lamma in Tripoli, are much admired.

Swords. Very long, straight, and double edged; bought greedily by the Tuarick.

Guns and pistols. Seldom taken, as they are not easily carried in bales.

Morgoom. Which is the long striped carpet, made by the Arabs near Tripoli, and at Mesurata on the sea-coast.

Turkey carpets or rugs, of about six or eight feet in length and three in breadth, called Sejaada.

Kaftans, of silk- and cotton in stripes, or red cloth, as gaudy and cheap as possible: these meet with a ready sale.

Caps, of the manufactory of Tunis, long, and having large tassels hanging from the crown.

Bornoose. Large red mantles, some ornamented with silk or gold lace.

Horses, which, if tall, will sell very readily for fifteen, or even in some places twenty regresses. Though the purchasers take the trouble to look at their teeth, they scarcely know a colt from an old horse. All animals of an imposing appearance, and long legs, are eagerly purchased.

Glass amulets, of black and blue, made at Venice.

Powder, flints, and lead in bullets, sell quickly.

Muslins. For the chiefs to make shirts or turbans.

Bales of linen. Thread, and gold thread, which the natives sometimes spin, mixing it with their cotton cloths.

Sundries. Such as files, chisels, and hammers; a few perfumes, little boxes, and toys; all of which can be procured in Europe for a mere trifle.

Nearly the whole of these articles are brought from Tripoli or Egypt, and are very dear even in Morzouk. We had none of these goods, which alone are objects of trade in the interior.

In Exchange for which the Traders bring from Soudan,

Slaves. Chiefly females, the males not being worth so much money by nearly one-third, or sometimes one-half; are the principal goods brought by the dealers.

Zebed (civet.) Obtained from the cats which are kept in cages, and are at stated periods irritated to such a degree, that a profuse perspiration takes place, and the perfume is secreted in some folds under the tail; which, by securing the Animal they scrape off, and preserve in small boxes made of hide. A savage old cat will produce ten or twelve dollars' worth in three heats. Their price is enormous, some being sold for three or four slaves.

Zeneh. A striped cotton petticoat worn as a wrapper by all the women: the patterns are various; some are very handsome, both in the arrangement of the colours and in the workmanship.

Cottons. Dark blue, called Turkedi, striped blue and white, red and blue, and in fact of many patterns; amongst others, chequered like the sailors' shirts. All these cloths are woven in webs about three or four inches in breadth; they are sewed very neatly together, and are excessively strong.

Tobe, or large shirts, much varied in colours and prices; the best are called Samia, of blue cotton and white silk woven in stripes. A female slave is considered a fair exchange for one of these shirts; others are at seven or eight dollars each. White ones are also made, but not considered equal to the blue. The names of those most commonly brought are, Massaquari, Sharia, Shata, Shinni, Freezy, and Abiad, or white.

Aba. Of cotton: it is a large shawl or wrapper, used and worn nearly as the barracans or abas of the Arabs and Moors. These wrappers are always striped, and generally very handsome: they are called Melhaffi Zaberma.

Gold. In dust, and small bars or rings. This precious metal is not brought openly, owing to the avarice of the Sultan; and the amount is very small in comparison with the commerce in the time of the last Sultan. It is valued at about one dollar and a half the Mitgal, or about the seventh part of an ounce.

Leather. Hides of sheep and goats, dyed and prepared extremely well, of yellow, red, or black; they are even glazed in the same way as morocco leather. The skins of bullocks prepared with grease (of which water buckets and sandals are generally made), and quite pliable. Many ornamental articles in leather are also brought; amongst others the Mokhadda, or pillows, which are beautifully made. They are mostly of red or yellow, with figures and ornaments dyed in black or blue, and tassels hanging at the ends.

Medaas. Ornamental sandals of exquisite workmanship, for men and women.

Kelabo. These are the ox hides just mentioned, and are sold in Fezzan for five or six dollars each.

Gerbas. Or water skins, made of goats' hides; they are considered the best in Africa, are very large and tight, and are worth three dollars each.

El Khaaf. The blue wrappers which form part of the headdress of the Tuarick.

Ostrich skins with the feathers on.

Honey. Yellow and white, and very good.

Goor, Kolla, or Gooroo nuts. They are brought fresh inclosed in a particular leaf, which retains its moisture for several days; if occasionally dipped in water, the nut will remain fresh for months. The taste is an agreeable bitter; and water drank after chewing a piece of one appears quite sweet, resembling the flavour of an artichoke. In Morzouk this luxury sells at the rate of four nuts for a dollar. They are about the size of a walnut, and shaped like a large bean. It is said, that in certain years when the nut has been scarce, people in Soudan have given a slave for one of them. They are the produce of Dagomba, Ashantee, and several countries west of Tembuctoo: I conceive they may be the Kolla nut of Park. Men in a dry state, much of their bitterness ceases, and they resemble a dry chesnut; they are then less valuable, and are called Kowda. These dainties are offered to visitors as coffee is on the coast of Barbary: many people call them the negro's coffee.

Pepper. Red, of two kinds; and three or four sorts of black, one of which resembles the pod of a vetch or tare.

Tammerat el filfil. A large pod, in shape resembling a walnut, and containing many small seeds of a very pungent taste, equal to Cayenne pepper.

Zoogoo. A kind of cotton cloth of great strength and thickness.

Elephants' teeth. Not often brought.

Leather jars. For containing oil, butter, or grease of any description. Honey is also brought in them: they are called Butta.

Leather bags. Capable of containing about a sack of corn; made of the hide of the black buffalo.

Bowls, called Kaffala, highly carved and ornamented, made of gourds; others are of wood; and wooden spoons.

Mortars, called Karroo, made of any hard wood, and used for pounding corn.

Leather, and skin ornaments, ivory armlets and finger rings, little fancy baskets, and many other trifles, complete the list, and serve to supply the deficiency of a camel's load. Blue parrots are brought from Noofy, and sell at astonishing prices, some as high as twenty dollars. They are carried by the regresses, who soon teach them to speak. They are not found east of Noofy. A sweet cake, called Aaoud el Kagh (or cough wood) made of spice and honey, is another article of commerce. Occasionally they bring a few sheep and goats, as presents to the Sultan, or to the families of the traders; lions' skins, and sometimes those of tiger cats.

To Egypt the Fezzan Merchants carry

Slaves, chiefly female.

Gold, procured from the interior.

Red pepper, native produce.

Trona, or soda, which is procured in the Wadey Shiati, and is chewed with tobacco.

Ostrich feathers.

Tiger cat and lions' skins.

Majiggri, or long-tailed sheep of Soudan, which are bought in Egypt as high as thirty dollars each.

Parrots, procured from Soudan.

Dates, which they obtain at Siwah, half-way on the road to Alexandria.

Leather of Soudan.

Dark blue Soudan cloths in pieces, &c. &c.

In return, the Egyptian traders, who are generally natives of Augela, a midway town, bring

Muslin turbans, which are only worn by great and rich people.

Silk, in stuffs, raw, and in thread.

Gold, thread and lace.

Striped stuffs of silk and cotton woven together, much worn by the merchants in the interior.

Cashmere Shawls, which are not often brought, are generally bought up by the Morocco traders.

Striped silk stuffs for women's under garments, and ready made up shirts.

Silk and cotton, sewed together in ribbons; also for shirts.

Cotton shirts, with coloured stripes for women.

Silk handkerchiefs for women.

Copper pots and basins, tinned inside and out.

Plates, cups, and bowls, of earthen ware.

Glasses for lamps, and brass and tin lamps.

Carpets of cotton, in coloured stripes.

Green leather, called Zengarr.

Gilt leather, called Smanto, which the women cut into small stripes, and plait with their hair.

Spices of several kinds.

Woollen cloth of the most brilliant colours, but of the coarsest and worst quality.

Kaftans, ready made and lined, of the above cloth.

Beads of various kinds and colours.

Agates and cornelians roughly cut in the form of hearts.

Armlets of glass, of various colours.

Brass anklets, armlets, and ear-rings; blunderbusses, pistols, swords, powder, and daggers; gilt stirrups, tents, soap of an inferior quality, musk, sugar, brown and white, in loaves, attar of roses, and jasmin; rosewater, aloes wood and camphor for perfuming the dead, zebed (or civet) of Mecca, and several other perfumes; silver ornaments for women; horses occasionally; bottles, ornamented boxes, tobacco and bowls for pipes; bead headbands for female slaves; sheet tin, and tin articles; red caps, Luban, a gum tasting much like resin, which people chew, and gum mastic; Habsia; handsome, girls from Abyssinia, educated in Mecca or Egypt. They are now but seldom brought, the Fezzanners not being rich enough to purchase them as formerly.

From Bornou the Tibboo bring

Slaves, wooden bowls, kaffala, or gourd bowls; a few tobes or shirts; sheep, goats, and a little honey. Lion's skins were once brought, but they are not now to be had, owing to the Sultan of Bornou buying them all up for his regresses to sleep on, to prevent their bearing children, as he has already a large family. It is implicitly believed that a woman who sleeps on a lion's skin never can become pregnant.

From Tuat the Tuarick bring

Gold procured from Timbuctoo in dust and bars; now, however, rarely and in small quantities.

Silk and gold belts, with cases to hang the books in.

Tinned copper pots, basins, &,c.

Light jereeds, or abas, of wool or cotton.

Horses, hair sacks, red, black, and yellow leather, ornamental bridles.

Korans, and other religious books, elegantly written, and often illuminated with letters of gold or rich colours.

Kohol. The black powder used for the eyelids.

Aaoud el Kagh. A sweetmeat made of honey.

Atria. A perfumed powder of cloves, wild lavender, and other sweet herbs, with which the Fezzan women powder their hair: the smell is by no means unpleasant.

Trifles and toys are also brought in great quantities.


<People of Soudan> ... In Soudan the people ride on Maherries.

Half-way between Nooffy and Ashantee is a country of great extent, called Gonja. It is said that the people have the power of taming the elephants, which there, as in Soudan, are found in great numbers. This country is traversed by the traders in their way to the Gold Coast.

The mountains of Kong, near Dagomba, are said actually to exist, but I know not whether under the same name. Beyond Dagomba the country is low and marshy, and at certain seasons is overflowed. All the people, who are not Moslems, in Soudan, Bornou, or indeed over the greater part of the interior, are called Kerdi, which means Kaffir, or "unbeliever," and is considered as a term of reproach; but no distinct tribe called by that name exists.

The women of the whole of the interior have no hand-mills to grind their corn, but pound it in large wooden mortars, enlivening their labour by songs. The want of salt is much felt. The Tuarick of Aghades and Asben, of the tribes of Kelliwe and Atesin, trade to great advantage in that article, which they bring from the salt lakes of Agram (Doomboo of the maps), on the Desert of Bilma, the position of which I shall mention when speaking of the country of the Tibboo.

The women of Soudan are much famed for their singing. They accompany themselves on a little instrument made of a gourd, with a skin stretched over it like a drum, having a handle and one string, which is played by a bow made with horse-hair. This instrument is called Erbab. Their other instruments are drums, bagpipes, rude cymbals, and a long gourd called Zantoo, which has a hole at each end, and is beaten against the calf of the leg, and stopped quickly by the hand.

The women of Bornou have not so many attractions as those of Soudan. They are neither so handsome, well formed, clean, nor good-tempered; and, in consequence, the slaves from the latter country bring much higher prices. The costume of the women of both these places is very remarkable, particularly in the manner of dressing their hair; those of Soudan stretching it over a high pad raised like a helmet, and the Bornou girls plaiting it in some instances close to the head, and in others letting it hang down like little bobbins. They wear a large shirt of cotton, or striped silk, and a wrapper in the form of a petticoat, called Zeneh. Their silver ear-rings, bracelets, and anklets, form a very pretty contrast with their jetty skins. . In their own countries they wear no shirts, but a long wrapper tied over the breasts and under the arms.

Ghadams. I have frequently had occasion to speak of this Place, which is situated on the Desert, fifteen days south-west of Tripoli. It is there that merchants going to Tembuctoo or Tuat assemble before starting for their long journey. This place was once independent, but a few years since was taken by the son of the Bashaw of Tripoli, and has ever since remained tributary. The natives are constantly trading to Tembuctoo, and there are few of them who do not speak the language of that country, and of the Tuarick also. It is a singular fact, that two tribes live in Ghadams without having any communication with each other. From a person who had often traded there I obtained the following account ... A large circular wall is divided in the middle by another broad one, which separates the two towns. It has a gate through the centre, which is shut during any disturbance. The inhabitants of both towns were always at war with each other, and have even now occasionally very dangerous quarrels. Outside the towns are the gardens and date groves. The streets are all covered in, and are so dark in consequence, that at sunset a person is unable to find his way without a lamp. The houses are good, formed of mud, and of one story. The natives are Arabs. Those who reside in the two towns seldom see, and are as perfect strangers to each other, as if living many miles apart. No intermarriages or civilities exist between them, and a chance visitor from one town seldom escapes insult from the people of the other. In Benewazeed is a spring sufficiently large to supply both these places, as well as their gardens. There are five channels from it, by which the water is distributed in equal shares, at a certain allowance, in proportion to the houses or gardens to be watered. When the allowance for one Place is poured into its proper channel, it is then dammed up, and another is supplied. There are people regularly appointed from each town to attend the distribution. The water is said to be rather warm and quite fresh, and runs in a channel communicating with the Mosque, through which it passes. There are many small rooms, into which those who wish to bathe in performing their ablutions may retire. The mouadden, or minaret of this Mosque is very high, and may be seen at the distance of a day's journey. Each town has a Sheikh, and the two are under the command of a Kaid appointed by the Bashaw. There are no manufactories, but it is well supplied by the constant concourse of traders who pass through it. Many ostriches are caught in the neighbouring desert, and the feathers form an extensive article of commerce with Tripoli. In the southern half of the walls is a tribe of Arabs living by themselves, called Oulad Belail. From Ghadams to Iddri, in the Wadey Shirghi of Fezzan, is eight days; and to Ghraat, twenty days short journeys, or fifteen summer days.

September.-All the people were this month busily employed in getting in their soft dates, which were in great plenty, and became their chief support. There are two harvests of this fruit., one while the dates are soft, the other the latter end of October and beginning of November, when they are dried and candied.


<At the town of Morzouk> ... The ablest person of our sick party always went to the gardens to shoot pigeons, which had been numerous, but which now had emigrated to the countries to the southward. These visits to the date groves gave us many opportunities of observing the manner of cultivating the grain and esculents. The wells are generally about 20 or 30 feet in depth, and more resemble large deep ponds than what we call wells. The water lies on a stratum of grayish clay, is salt, and generally smells very badly: it is raised by means of sheers made of date trees, lashed together, and placed slopingly over the centre of the pit. One or two asses, according to the number of buckets used, are attached by a light harness and run down a steep bank, which renders their work less laborious. The men who attend also draw with them, and quicken their pace by pricking them on the flanks, with their small reaping hooks, in so rude a manner, that many of the poor animals are quite scarified. The water runs into small channels, which are formed round the garden, while the women and children, with scoops, distribute it as it may be wanted.

In some places where it is intended to allow the ground to drink, the embankments are opened, and the garden is completely flooded ; thus the labour is very great, and absolutely necessary, as rain is unknown, and no dews ever fall. The people who attend the gardens, live in little huts constructed of palm branches, and about six feet in height. The dates, when quite dry, are buried in square holes, dug in the sand, and are afterwards covered over with it. Corn is made into little sheaves, and laid out until wanted: it is then beaten with long date-sticks, and asses are made to run over it. The ground on which these operations take place is a circle firmly clayed and quite clean : much sand is, however, unavoidably mixed with their corn. Pomegranate and fig-trees form an agreeable shade near some of the wells ; they are so planted, as to stand in the centre of the water channels. The gardens ane, as I have before stated, very small; yet it sometimes happens, that one alone produces all the vegetables and fruits peculiar to the country.

Near our house was the principal Mosque, to which the Sultan and ourselves went every Friday, as a matter of course; and every other day, we found it necessary to appear there once or twice. It is a low building, having a shed projecting over the door, which, being raised on a platform, is entered by a few steps. A small turret, intended to be square and perpendicular, is erected for the Mouadden to call the people to prayers. One of the great lounges is on the seats in front of the Mosque; and every morning and evening, they are full of idle people, who converse on the state of the markets, and on their own private affairs; or, in a fearful whisper, canvass the Sultan's conduct.

The men of Morzouk, of the better sort, dress nearly like the people of Tripoli ; the lower orders wear a large shirt of white or blue cotton with long loose sleeves, trowsers of the same, and sandals of camels' hide : the shirts being long, many wear no other covering. When leaving their houses, and walking to the market or gardens, a Jereed or Aba is thrown round them, and a red cap, or a neatly quilted white cotton one, completes the dress: on Fridays they perhaps add a turban, and appear in yellow slippers. In the gardens, men and women wear large broad-brimmed straw hats to defend their eyes from the sun, and sandals made from the leaves and fibres of the palm-tree. Very young children go entirely naked; those who are older have a shirt: many are quite bare-headed, and in that state exposed all day to the sun and flies. The men have but little beard, which they keep closely clipped. The dress of the women here differs materially from that of the Moorish females, and their appearance and smell are far from being agreeable: they plait their hair in thick bobbins, which hang over their foreheads, nearly as low down as the eyebrows, and are there joined at the bottom, as far round to each side as the temples.

The hair is so profusely oiled, that it drops down over the face and clothes; this is dried up by sprinkling it with plenty of a preparation made of a plant resembling wild lavender, cloves, and one or two more species, pounded into powder and called Atria: it forms a brown, dirty looking paste, and, combined with perspiration and the flying sand, becomes in a few days far from savoury in appearance or odour. The back hair is less disgusting, as it is plaited into a long tress on each side, and is brought to hang over the shoulders; from these tresses, ornaments of silver or coral are suspended. Black wool is frequently worked in with these back locks, to make them appear longer. In the centre of the forehead, an ornament of coral or beads is placed, hanging down to the depth of an inch or two. A woollen handkerchief is fastened on the back of the head; it falls over behind, and is tied by a leather strap under the chin. Each ear is perforated for as many rings as the woman possesses, some wear even six on one side; the largest, which is about five inches in diameter, hanging lowest, supported by a string from the head. Round the neck, a tight flat collar of beads, arranged in fancy patterns, is worn with coral necklaces, and sometimes a broad gold plate immediately in front. A large blue shirt is generally worn, the collar and breast ornamented with needle-work: the women also wear white shirts, and striped silk ones called Shami, which are brought from Egypt;-a Jereed and red slippers complete their dress.

They generally have those wrappers of a darker colour than those of the men. Some of the better class of women wear trowsers, not fuller in the leg than those worn in Europe; they are very prettily embroidered with silk at the bottom of the leg, and form a handsome contrast to the black skin of the wearer. Cornelians or Agates, roughly shaped in the form of hearts, are much worn as necklaces, and they have a variety of rings for the thumbs and fingers. A band of silk cord hanging round the body from one shoulder is generally filled with pendent leather or cloth bags containing charms. Round the wrists and above the elbows, Armlets of silver, gold, glass, horn, or ivory, are worn according to the ability of the wearer to purchase them; and on the ankles they have silver, brass, copper, or iron shackles. I have seen a pair of silver ones, which weighed 108 ounces; but these ponderous ornaments produce a callous lump on the leg, and entirely deform the ankle. The poorest people have only the Jereed and sandals. Both men and women have a singular custom of stuffing their nostrils with a twisted leaf of onions or clover, which has a very disgusting appearance. The men, not using oil, are much cleaner than the women; but the whole race of them, high and low, apparently clean or otherwise, are abominably lousy; and they make no secret of it. I have frequently observed the Sultan, when detecting an interloper, moisten his thumb to prevent its escape, and then demolish it with great composure and dignity. Some of the neighbours whom we visited, whilst reposing on their carpets, would send for a slave to hunt for these tormentors on their shirts; and it is a great recommendation to a female slave, on sale, to say that she is well skilled in this art, and in that of shampooing.

... Kaid Saad, who was a great cook, undertook to dress for us a whole sheep, which was to last us the remaining part of our journey to Gatrone. As this was one of the Arab methods of preparing meat for a journey, I shall here describe it. The sheep is deprived of all its fat, and cut into small pieces ; the fat is melted in a large pot, and the meat, with garlic, onions, and red pepper, is then stewed in it without any water, and with a lid on the pot, for three or four hours, when it is taken out, and having been cooled, is put into a goat skin. The grease is kept for mixing with cusscussou, bazeen, and other dishes; and meat thus prepared will remain perfectly fresh for two or three weeks. He made us a very good mess of sheep skin, which is sliced and stewed with onions.


... As this was the evening of the feast of Milood, Mohammed's birth-day, every thing promised a gay meeting, and the young Tibboo girls were adorned for the occasion in all their finery. These females are light and elegant in form, and their graceful costume, quite different from that of the Fezzanners, is well put on. They have aquiline noses, fine teeth, and lips formed like those of Europeans; their eyes are expressive, and their colour is of the brightest black: there is something in their walk, and erect manner of carrying themselves, which is very striking. Their feet and ankles are delicately formed, and are not loaded with a mass of brass or iron, but have merely a light anklet of polished silver or copper, sufficient to show their jetty skin to more advantage; they wear also neat red slippers.

The costume for the head is almost universally the same, the hair being plaited on each side, in such a manner as to hang down on the cheeks like a fan, or rather in the form of a large dog's ear. A piece of leather is fastened from the front to the back of the head, in the centre, and through this are passed twenty or thirty silver rings, each linked within the other, ending behind in a flat silver plate, which is suspended from a few tresses of hair; and in front, by a silver ornament composed of several rings <of graduated sizes, lying flat within each other>.

On each side of the head, they wear an ornament of gold and rough cut agate, and round it, above the ears, a bandeau of coral, cowrie shells, or agates; several light chains of silver, having round bells at the end of them, are attached to the hair, and when dancing, produce a pleasing sound. Their necks are loaded with gaudy necklaces, and one-half of their well-formed bosoms is shown by the arrangement of their drapery: their arms are bare to the shoulders, having above the elbow neat silver rings of the thickness of a goosequill, and on the wrists one or two broader and flatter. In the ear they wear three or four silver rings of various sizes, the largest in circumference hanging the lowest. Their most singular ornament is a piece of red coral, through a hole in the right nostril, which really does not look unbecoming. The dress is a large shawl of blue, or blue and white cotton, of which they have a variety of patterns, fastened over the shoulders and across the bosom, and hanging in graceful folds, so as to show the back, right breast, and right arm bare. These dresses are very short, and exhibit the leg to the calf; but with all this display, their general appearance offered nothing offensive or immodest.

... The Tibboo women do not, like the Arabs, cover their faces; they retain their youthful appearance longer than the latter, are much more cleanly, better housewives, and particularly careful of their children, of whom they have a multitude. Their chief occupation seems to be basket-making; and they also form drinking bowls out of palm leaves, which they ornament with stripes of coloured leather, and execute with much taste and neatness. All the Fezzanners who come here to trade return loaded with these baskets, as presents for their families.

Having said so much of the agreeable qualities of the Tibboo, I feel it but candid to acknowledge their immoderate fondness for tobacco, with a great portion of which almost every mouth is crammed. Their teeth are, nevertheless, quite white, owing to the custom which is peculiar to the Mohamedans of cleaning them after eating, with a piece of stick.

The Tibboo men are slender and active in their form, and have intelligent countenances; their agility is proverbial; and they are frequently, by way of distinction, called "the Birds". The tribes which inhabit the southern parts of Fezzan are, from circumstances, quiet and civilized; but those of the interior live chiefly by plunder, are constantly making inroads on their neighbours, and are not famed for fidelity one to another. They are not disposed to cruelty, but are most impudent thieves; and their well known character secures them the almost exclusive commerce of Waday and Baghermee, no strangers, at least very few, choosing to risk a passage through their country. They are chiefly Kaffirs, and live in a state of nature, being clad with the skins of beasts, and inhabiting holes in rocks, or wretched grass huts. Their camels or maherries enable them to perform extraordinary journeys, from which circumstance they are constantly shifting their abode.

... Of the Tibboo slaves who are brought to Fezzan, the females meet with the readiest market, on account of their beauty: the males are generally too light for hard work, and are not brought in any considerable number.


... <Notices of the interior> Battali, which is laid down as a river, was the bed of an immense stream, now dried up entirely. <My informer> had himself seen in it large skeletons of fish and animals, shells, and trunks of trees, as in Bahr el Ghazal, from which it is north-west 5 days, and to which, perhaps, it was once attached. It still retains its name Balir or river. He said, that from Gatrone to Wara there was not a river, or even a rivulet of any importance, except in the rainy season, when the torrents form themselves temporary beds in the Wadeys.

... The Tibboo have a particular breed of sheep and goats here, of the same race as those of Bornou and Soudan. The tails of the sheep are in some so long as to touch the ground, and are very taper. These animals are distinguished from the other species, by being called Majiggri; they are hairy, and generally of a dark colour. The goats are elegant little creatures, and have hair as sleek and shining as that of a horse. They are plentiful, and tolerably cheap.

... a well outside the town, where we watered our horses. Near this well are some holes for making tar, according to the manner of the Tibboo, which is thus : a pot is buried deep in the ground with the mouth upwards, which is covered by a piece of another pot with a hole bored in it; a large jar is then filled with bones and date stones, and its mouth is filled with a handful of the fibres of the palm. This is inverted on the perforated piece, and round it a strong fire of wood and camels' dung is burnt, until the pit is full of red hot ashes. The tar then filters into the lower pot, which is dug up when the upper one cools: it is immediately fit for use. Gerbas (or water-skins) are rubbed with this composition, which resembles coal tar in smell and appearance; and it is applied to the sores of camels.

... In the course of our cooking I observed that a date plastered over a hole in a leaky pot renders it quite tight for one boiling, and as dates are more easily procured than tinkers on a journey, this hint may be worth noticing by those who may hereafter travel in this country.

... Many of the <slave> children were carried in leather bags, which the Tibboo make use of to keep their corn in; and in one instance I saw a nest of children on one side of a camel, and its young one in a bag, hanging on the other. The Arabs brought many asses and sheep from Borgoo: the former are very large and fine, and arrived in high condition, whereas the horses and camels were skeletons. I here had an opportunity of seeing the manner of chaining the prisoners. Five Wajunga men, fierce, well made, handsome people, about 25 years of age, were linked together. The right hand is fastened to the neck, round which is an iron collar, having two rings in the back; through this the heavy chain is passed and locked at each end on the unhappy slaves. The owner sleeps with this chain tied to his wrist, when in fear of their escaping. I was informed by their masters, that these men had been so confined during three months, "because they were fierce fellows, and had actually resisted their captors; but above all, they had been guilty of endeavouring to make their escape when taken." Their cowardly owners dreaded them even in Fezzan. These were the only strong young men in the Kaffle; almost all the other males being little boys, or infirm old men.

The Tibboo of Borgoo are represented as a timid race, in such dread of a gun or horse, that the bare sight of an Arab, and particularly a mounted one, is sufficient to put a number of them to flight. They run with great swiftness, and when endeavouring to escape, use many successful and ingenious feints. For instance; if pursued on rocky ground, they will kneel suddenly in such a manner, as to resemble a rock or stone, the mountains in their own country being black like themselves; if where wood is lying, they embrace the trunk of a tree: if on sandy ground, they stand on an eminence, until their pursuer is in the hollow near them, they then run to the next hollow, and change their direction or even bury themselves before he gets to the rising ground. They show equal skill in eluding the vigilance of their keepers when caught. Mukni has often told me stories of their cunning, with evident astonishment and anger, that these poor wretches should dare to use their wits to such advantage. One of his remarks was, "if you catch one, and do not immediately bind him, when you turn away from him, he will run off."

The country from whence these poor victims come produces sufficient dates to furnish the whole army, and the conquerors brought away enough to supply their slaves and animals. There are in this country some singular insulated rocks, which are almost inaccessible, and which stand on plains of sand. On these many of the Tibboo live, and by means of large stones and arrows are able to keep out any people, who, like themselves, are without muskets. The Sultan's army, in a former Ghrazzie, stormed some of these fastnesses; and though they were superior in number and arms, and the Tibboo naturally timid, they met with very severe loss.

The plan adopted by the Arabs in taking these people is described in the following manner.-They rest for the night, two or three hours ride from the village intended to be attacked; and after midnight, leaving their tents and camels, with a small guard, they advance, so as to arrive by daylight; they then surround the place, and, closing in, generally succeed in taking all the inhabitants. As those who elude the first range have also to pass several bodies Placed on the look-out, and armed with guns, their chance of escape is almost impossible. On a rising ground, at a convenient distance is placed a standard, round which are stationed men prepared to receive and bind the captives, as they are brought out by those who enter the town: when bound, the pillagers return for fresh plunder. In the course of one morning, a thousand or fifteen hundred slaves have sometimes been procured in this manner, by two or three hundred men only. When the inhabitants are all secured, the camels, flocks, and provisions, come into requisition; and these dreaded Arabs march on and conquer other defenceless hordes, in the same manner. The Tibboo of Borgoo are of a lighter complexion than other negroes, and are handsome people. The females braid their hair, which is not very woolly, in long plaits ...


January 17th. Therm. 6'.-I set out as I had proposed, with the Mamlukes and a large body of Fezzanners, to meet their friends; for which, on joining Aleiwa's people, I received many thanks and compliments: having only slept one night at my own house, I was not expected to leave it again so quickly. I here found my little patient, whom I mentioned before, quite recovered, and able, by his master's instruction, to thank me in a few words of Arabic. This little fellow's patience, during illness, had so won on his master, a shoemaker of Morzouk, that he had adopted him; and intended, instead of selling, to bring him up to his own trade, in which, if the boy succeeds, he is to make me a pair of boots on my return. We spent this afternoon in singing and eating, and every one assumed a new appearance: instead of the dirty ragged wretches whom I had last seen, they were transformed into a gay multitude, dressed in silks, scarlet, and embroidery; their friends collecting for them such finery as would enable them to enter the capital with becoming dignity. Many of the Arabs smelt most odoriferously of attar of roses, and affected to look as if they had been accustomed to it all their lives.

The whole procession would have been very amusing, on the morning of the 18th, but for the multitude of poor dejected captives; -their swelled and sore feet, and emaciated bodies, formed such a sad contrast to the finery and ostentation of the conquerors, that it not only completely checked all inclination to laugh, but gave rise to the most painful feelings. Six flags preceded the army with a large band of musicians, who formed a melodious concert, each disdaining time or tune, and playing such airs as their own taste dictated. On approaching Morzouk, the dancing women and bagpipers came out, and added to the din; and the Arabs, dividing as usual into two bodies, skirmished with very good effect. At noon we entered the town, and I rode ahead of the Sultan's son, to observe what would be his father's reception of him. I found Mukni sitting in the greatest agitation, pale, and alone in the Mezlis, or Court of his Castle, and scarcely able to welcome me. The crowd assembling, a lane was formed from the place where Aleiwa was to alight, to the great chair in which the Sultan sat. The boy dismounted, and, supported by his younger brother, ran and threw himself on his knees to kiss his father's hand. A general silence prevailed, when the father, overcome by his feelings, reclined on the son's neck, and wept aloud. At that moment I felt that I could have forgiven him all his unkindness to Mr. Ritchie and myself, and the numerous murders he had committed; had I not recollected that this favourite boy was returning with many poor children, whose existence was not less dear to their own parents than his was to Mukni. When the Sultan had become a little composed, and had re-assumed his look of dignity, a splendid Bornouse of cloth of gold was brought, and Aleiwa being stripped of that which he then wore, by some of the principal people, the new one was thrown over him, for which he knelt and kissed his father's hand. This, I find, is the customary present in all the Barbary states to generals returning victorious. The ceremony over, all the Arabs commenced kissing hands, and the Sultan then, having vouchsafed a smile on the crowd, entered the Castle, leaning on the shoulders of his two sons.

January 19th.-All this day the Sultan was sitting outside the Castle gate, surrounded by Sheikh Barood and the Arabs, and buying of them, slaves and camels.

The square near the Castle presented quite a novel appearance, being filled with above 1000 Maherries. The town was all alive, and formed a very amusing spectacle. Merchants from neighbouring countries, Tibboo, Tuarick, Arabs, and camels, were all in motion at once, while the poor Negroes, who occasioned the assemblage of so many strangers, sat naked and shivering in the sun, and were oiled all over to better their appearance. Some were paraded for sale, whilst others went about with broken pots to collect the blood of the numerous camels, which people were slaughtering, and which, on being baked over a fire, they eagerly swallowed. Such skeletons as were seen amongst them might really have moved the pity even of their owners. Slaves were selling as low as ever, and the market was full: a fine girl of thirteen years of age was worth about thirty-five dollars; a boy of the same age about fifteen or twenty; occasionally the price was greater for the females, if particularly handsome; but boys seldom rose higher than the sum I have mentioned.

None but the Bedouins appear to approve of these Ghrazzies; their wandering manner of life, and total want of every social feeling, their having no lands to cultivate, or houses to take care of, may account for it. Those who have possessions are aware that these predatory excursions are the ruin of the country and of trade; but their fear of Mukni is even greater than their love of home, and they therefore must engage, however unwillingly, in this service. Every man who attends the Ghrazzies is obliged to furnish himself with arms and provisions, and he is at liberty to make what plunder or captives he can, which, with the exception of one-fourth, is his own private property. A general attack, in which all are engaged, allows of no man appropriating to himself the slaves he takes, as all are carried to the standard, and thus divided; the Sultan has one-fourth, every footman is entitled to one slave, and every horseman to two. Should the number of captives exceed that of the captors, a second sharing is made after each man has received his first portion; but should the number of slaves not amount to that of the captors, they are divided, one between two or three, in proportion. Two little children are considered as equal to a young boy, and two boys of about nine or ten years of age, or one girl of the same age, make a share.

About this time I frequently visited the slave-markets, which are conducted with the same degree of indifference to the feelings of the captives as at Tripoli. There are many auctioneers, as well for slaves, as for other articles of trade; each runs from side to side of the street, crying in a shrill voice the price last bidden, and standing on tiptoes: should he be selling a slave, the poor creature follows him at a trot, like a dog, to the different groups of merchants who are sitting on the sand.



SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE-TRADE

In Morzouk about a tenth part of the population are slaves, though many have been brought away from their countries so young as hardly to be considered in that light. With respect to the household slaves, little or no difference is to be perceived between them and freemen, and they are often entrusted with the affairs of their master. These domestic slaves are rarely sold, and on the death of any of the family to which they belong, one or more of them receive their liberty, when, being accustomed to the country, and not having any recollection of their own, they marry, settle, and are consequently considered as naturalized. All slavery is for an unlimited time, unless when a religious feeling of the master induces him to set a bondsman free on any great festival, on the occasion of a death, or, which not unfrequently happens, from a wish to show his approval of the slave's services.

It was, when the people were more opulent, the custom to liberate a male or female on the feast of Bairam, after the fast of Rhamadan. This practice is not entirely obsolete, but nearly so. The Slaves are procured from the inland traders, or on those lawless expeditions I have already mentioned.

Respecting the offspring of slaves, it may not be uninteresting to observe the regulations existing in Fezzan, which are, as far as I can collect, the same as in all Moslem countries.

A Khadem, or negress, bearing a child by her master, cannot afterwards be sold, but must be maintained for the remainder of her life by him, or any person to whom he may marry her ; and her child is free, and equally entitled to support.

A negress having a child by any man but her master (even though the parties should be married), is the mother of a slave, she herself not being free.

Should the female slave of one man be with child by the male slave of another, the infant so born becomes the property of the master of the female, and can, as well as its mother, be sold.

A child, the offspring of a free woman by a slave, partakes of its mother's state, and is free.

It not unfrequently happens that masters allow family slaves to marry without liberating them; but their children are slaves, and can be sold, although it is not considered honourable so to dispose of them. These children, and, indeed, all those born in the country, are called Shushan.


<Travelling with a large caravan from Morzouk to Tripoli> ... My Kaffle consisted of Belford and myself, and eight loaded camels, four Arabs, our two Maherries, two sheep, and my horse. Lizari's was composed of sixteen Khadems, or females, and three male slaves, his own Negress, four loaded camels, a Maherry, which he rode, and two Arabs. We were all in high spirits, our little party rejoicing at the idea of returning home, and Lizari at having escaped the malice of Mukni. Our friends remained with us all night, and we arranged together many plans of future meeting.

February 10th. Thermometer 0'.-At 8.15. our kind friends took leave of us, Yussuf and old Hadge Mahmoud sobbing loudly and Mohammed looking very gloomy. Poor little Barea, the boy whom Yussuf had lent us for so long a period, appeared quite inconsolable. I wished to have brought him away., but, to my great regret, his master would not sell him to me, though I offered my horse in exchange for him. I really felt much concern at parting from these kind-hearted people, who had, to the best of their abilities, often befriended us, and to whom we owed so many and weighty obligations. The day was fine, our camels good, and we set out at a brisk pace. The Shreef Sadig, who had been encamped at a little distance from us, now became our messmate. His Kaffle consisted of four girls, three men, four camels, and three Arabs. Lizari and myself joined our stock, which Rahmata his Negress, who was an excellent cook, made into a nice mess for us every night.

... Our road lay over a desert, without the least sign of a shrub, or any living creature. A strong cold east wind blew with great force, as it met with no impediment,. and quickly chopped our lips and skin. The Negroes wore their travelling dresses, which being new and clean, looked very neat. The girls have green or yellow caps, with a large flap on each side; shirts of blue or white cotton, a petticoat or wrapper of the same, and a good warm jeread or barracan. It is to be observed, that masters do not at all times take equal care of their slaves; but that fearing the bad effects of cold weather, the merchants are in winter more attentive to their comfort than at any other season; and this for their own advantage, since it prevents the Negresses from becoming thin and consumptive (which want of clothing would otherwise subject them to be), and makes them bring a better price to their owners. The males are not so carefully attended to, having generally only a long shirt and barracan. Both sexes have sandals of camel's hide; the girls walk by themselves, and the men follow the camels. At one o'clock they are all watered like cattle, out of large bowls, placed on the ground, from which they kneel and drink. Children are thrown with the baggage on the camels, if unable to walk; but if five or six years of age, the poor little creatures are obliged to trot on all day, even should no stop be made for fourteen or fifteen hours, as I have sometimes witnessed. We passed a Kaffle of about twenty camels from Tripoli, with a chowse of the Bashaw, loaded with corn for Morzouk; they informed us that the Bashaw had sent an army against Augela, and that the plague had ceased at Tunis and Jerba. At four we turned from the road to go to a well, Ghroodwa being considered too long a journey for the slaves: we had travelled until that time north 40' east nineteen miles. At 7.30. we arrived at Neshoua (a Wadey running east-north-east), having cleared north by west seven miles. A well of good water was here, and we lay down amongst the palm bushes. In unloading the camels, Belford's Maherry took fright, and running on to the desert, his saddle fell off and the beast lamed himself sadly by striking his toe against it: some Arabs from the neighbourhood seeing us cooking, came and supped with us. The mess of the slaves is provided before that of their masters; it consists of Bazeen, of which each one has a portion about as large as the double fist; and a bowl is filled with grease and pepper, into which they occasionally dip their paste. The daily allowance of food is a quart of dates in the morning, and half a pint of flour made into Bazeen at night. Some masters never allow their slaves to drink after a meal, unless at a watering place. When the meal is finished, they all lie down, the females in one line, the males in another, and are covered over with sacking until morning.

February 12th. Thermometer 30' below 0'. Water frozen, and the poor Negroes in great distress from the cold. At 8.00. loaded and proceeded along the edge of the Wadey. Belford walked for a time, and his camel appeared much swelled about the foot. Course north 75' east; Wadey about one mile in breadth, bounded on each side by the Desert. At one P. M. we stopped at Ghroodwa, having made twelve miles. Here is a fine Mosque and a tomb (which is kept constantly white-washed) over the grave of the third brother of Sidi Besheer, the Maraboot of whom I have before spoken. I bought a fine sheep for a dollar and a half.

February 12th. At eight proceeded along the Wadey; at 9.30. arrived at the end of it, and found a well called Bir el Whishki, or well of the palm bushes. We were joined here b a chowse of the Bashaw of Tripoli, who had just come from thence with thirty camels' load of grain; he said it was reported that the English Consul was coming to meet me at Benioleed. On leaving the well we entered again on a stony desert and at 6.15. descended a rugged pass called Tan6ia, to a plain hemmed in on every side by conical-shaped hills. At 6. 40. we stopped for the night, having travelled north 33' east twenty-six miles. A large Kaffle of natives of the Wadey Shiati passed us on their way to Morzouk, with grain, and to compliment the Sultan on his son's return. We had many Arab games while sitting with the camel-men round our fires; and I now began to be well acquainted with these people, having occasionally been under the necessity of honouring one or two of them with a box on the ear. We were all very merry, and one of my people, Ibrahim el Fetaima, an Arab of Hoon, told us some very amusing stories.

Sunday, 13th of February. Thermometer 3'. Proceeded at 7.45. along the plain. At nine the hills opened on to a broad flat plain, bounded at about ten miles to the eastward by bills, which were a continuation of those we had passed. At 1.40. arrived at Sebha, having travelled north 33' east fifteen miles. Strong south wind blowing. We found under the walls where we encamped two Kaffles who were awaiting our arrival; one belonging to Hadge Mohammed el Turke, who had twenty-three Negresses and five men slaves; the other belonging to an old lame Turk called Baba Hassein, and consisting of twenty-one females and seven males. they had left Morzouk two days before us. In the evening all the village assembled outside the walls, to carry a bride in procession to her husband's house. A camel was ornamented with a frame-work, covered over with carpets, shawls, and ostrich feathers; and the bride placed within it on his back. The camel was led by a relation of the bride, preceded by dancing people, music, mounted and dismounted Arabs, who shouted and fired, running backwards and forwards in front of the procession. The bridegroom walked before them, with a fan in his hand, and his fingers dyed with henna, loaded with tawdry clothes, and looking very solemn. The bride was carried round the town and gardens, and in the end conducted to her husband's house. The village all night resounded with songs, and the shrill voices of the women; and we had several bowls of provisions sent out to us. We found the flies here very tormenting.

... The people in the Wadeys are blacks and mulattoes as in Morzouk, and Arabs live amongst them. The villages contain from thirty to two hundred houses; many, however, are composed of palm huts. The people are very poor, but in the time of the Waled Suleman, who resided much amongst them, they were opulent. In some of the pools of stagnant water in the Wadey Shaiti are found small worms, of about the size of a grain of rice; these are collected in great quantities, and pounded with a little salt in a mortar, until they form a black paste, which is made into balls of about the size of the double fist, and then suffered to dry in the sun. These worms, which are called Dood, form one of the very few luxuries of Fezzan, as the poor people, when they have a mess of flour, mix some of them with the sauce, to their Aseeda. They resemble very bad caviar in taste, and the smell is extremely offensive; but habit and necessity overcome all prejudices in this country, and I soon became very partial to them. Sand is an unavoidable ingredient in this paste, and the natives consider it as more wholesome in consequence. One or two families gain a good subsistence by preparing these worms for the market of Morzouk, and the neighbouring towns.

Monday, Feb. 14th. Therm. 3'.-Another Kaffle joined us from Morzouk, belonging to a native of Tripoli named Khalifa: those I mentioned before, set out this day for Temanhint. Belford's Maherry was here so lame, that I had him fired all round the foot by Ibrahim, who was now become very useful to us. The manner of firing camels is by a very thin red hot iron, which is curved so as to be easily turned round the foot : they have these irons of different lengths and sizes, for the particular part to be burned. I hired another camel for Belford to ride on, at the rate of two dollars, from hence to Sockna, agreeing that it should carry two skins of water on passing the Soudah.

As I had nothing better to occupy me, I mounted my own Maherry, with a Tuarick Rahela, or saddle, and practised riding him according to their manner, which is very difficult, and not used in Fezzain. I fortunately succeeded much beyond my expectation. ...

Tuesday, 15th Feb. ... In the evening we had occasion to buy straw for the camels, in a way I had never before seen, of the people who came out from the town to trade with us. Shreef Sadig soon instructed me in this new mode of barter. The person who has to sell mentions what he wishes in exchange for certain commodities, whether oil, liquid butter, or shahm, which is a kind of salted fat much resembling bad tallow in taste and smell. If liquids, he pours water into a pot in proportion to the quantity of oil or butter he requires; if solids, he brings a stone of the size of the shahm, or other article demanded. The buyer pours out water, or sends for smaller stones, until he thinks a fair equivalent is offered. The quantities then agreed for are made up to the size of the stone, or the depth of the water.

Tuesday, February 22nd.-At 7.20. went on. Thermometer 5'. A very fine morning. At noon we passed over a wadey, called Zayra, with many shrubs in it, on which a few poor shepherds from Sockna were feeding their flocks. ... We were every evening much amused by a little Tibboo boy, called Moosa, about five years of age, whose master was always in the Kaffle next to us. This child had picked up a few words of Arabic, and spoke very prettily. The chief amusement of his master, and the Arabs who were with him, was to make Moosa dance, and then fight another boy of double his age. Whilst sitting opposite to each other by the fire, their masters made them fight with lighted sticks. Moosa, who always was the first to be enraged, began to call the other boy an infidel, to curse his father, and to use many other equally insulting speeches, which the Arabs taught him. The elder boy, provoked in his turn, then rose to revenge himself, when the little fellow darted at his legs, and by biting them unmercifully, was always sure of gaining the victory. The Moors never took the trouble of collecting wood for their fires, but waited until every Kaffle had supplied itself, when they sent Moosa to steal what he could. Owing to his small size, he succeeded in these pilferings, to my great amusement, for I found that though he stole from every one else, he never robbed me, but even supplied me when I was in want of fuel. He was repeatedly offered to me as a present by his master, and I have since been sorry I refused him: he was jet black, and extremely pretty. In all the difficult passes he rode on my right knee, telling me the way in which he was caught, and many long stories besides. If his master's camels or mine chanced to stray, he would arm himself with a stick and go in search of them, nor would he give up the chase till he had driven them back; he was indeed a most engaging child, and I became very fond of him.

Wednesday, 23rd February. Thermometer 4'.-At seven the camels took the road by a wadey to the left, whilst I and the slaves went over an almost inaccessible mountain, called Nufdai, which brought us to the well at its foot, called Gutfa, about three miles distant from our last sleeping place; the water here is very good. We stopped an hour at the well to water and refresh the slaves and animals, and then wound along a wadey having many small Talhh trees in it, until we had made about six miles northeast, the mountains opening out on the left.

Old Baba Hassein, the Turk of whom I have made mention as not giving his Bouzaferr, was now become quite a standing joke amongst the Kaffle. He spoke very bad Arabic, which, with his being very lame, and always requiring, when he walked, to be supported by two Negresses, made him the constant subject of ridicule. He had almost famished his slaves and camel-men, allowing them to drink once a day only, though he had a plentiful stock of water. Having a pipe, he amused himself with it day and night; and as smoking was to him the height of enjoyment, and he always rode a camel, he affected to wonder that the poor slaves should be fatigued or in want of refreshment. Every other owner had brought ready ground corn with him for the food of the Negroes; but Baba obliged his poor tired females to pound their corn every evening after their fatiguing match, in wooden mortars, which he had brought for the purpose. Though the whole Kaffle had been straitened for water, he actually brought two whole skins full to the well and the Arabs told me that his slaves lay down and drank of it like camels. This man had been, about six years before, robbed of all his goods by the Tuarick, of the tribe of Haggar, when on the confines of the kingdom of Kashna, on his way from Tunis; but his address, or roguery, more than supplied his loss. He arrived almost naked at Sakkatoo, the residence of Bello (son of the celebrated Hatman Danfodio), the Sultan of the Fellata, introducing himself as a Shreef, or descendant of the Prophet, and telling a piteous story of his losses, which he since owns to have been greatly exaggerated. Bello, believing him to be a Shreef, took compassion on him, and made him a kingly present of a hundred Negresses, some of whom, then with him, were really beautiful; he also supported him for some tinie. The old man had traded with the Negresses, and had made a great deal of money, with which he was now returning.

We were also accompanied from Zeghen by an old Arab, who appeared to have nothing to do with loading or unloading the camels, and who always prayed and slept apart from the Kaffle. I supposed him to be the father of some of the camel-men, and frequently gave him food, until I learnt that he was related to none of our companions, and that he had but one object in coming with us, which was to live upon us. He had a voracious appetite, and finding he could not obtain food at home without working for it, had been for many years in the habit of passing this desert with the Kaffles, on whom he quartered himself: his character was well known, yet the Arabs were unable to shake him off, fearing he would spread a report that they allowed him to starve, while they had plenty, which would have been a great reproach to them. At the well where I killed the camel, I gave him two days' allowance, or about four pounds of food, which he devoured at once: he then dined with my drivers, and again with the Shreef Sadig's men, and even managed to coax the hungry slaves out of part of their dinner. Having lost his teeth, he never chewed, but bolted his food, and was a complete glutton.


<At Sockna again> ... the mothers here, and indeed all the townspeople, were at this time in great alarm, having heard that an Orfilly, or Arab of Benioleed, was prowling about in search of some child, whom he intended to kill and eat. This wretch had, from the effects of a loathsome disease, lost his nose, and been otherwise disfigured. Some one had prescribed to him, or he himself had conceived this dreadful remedy for his sufferings; and, in consequence, was on the watch for some young victim, in whose warm blood he was to wash himself, and then devour its flesh. An infant girl of two or three years of age had, a short time before, been rescued from him, and he was now wandering about the neighbourhood in search of another child. The Sockna Arabs had all agreed to shoot him if they could meet him, and Lizari had also given his promise to despatch him if he came in his way.

The Orfilly Arabs have almost universally a bad character, and are much disliked, not, however, without reason. A man murdered or robbed, a house fired, a camel stolen, or any lawless act, is almost always traced to an Orfilly; and certainly a more insolent, thievish, and begging set of men I never saw. They even exceed the Sockna men in this particular: "Give me, give me," is their cry from morning till night.


... The Tripoli money is the currency of Sockna, which occasions great losses to the people, who are obliged to pay their taxes to Mukni in Spanish dollars, which they buy at extravagant prices. The Bashaw's coin is now almost worthless.

It is not the custom here to bury the dates, which in consequence are very fine, and free from sand; but they keep them in store-huts built for the purpose. I imagine that their being so exposed may account in some degree for the multitude of flies found here.

All the houses are built on the same plan, having a small square court in the centre, from which a few steps lead to an open gallery, which is the principal room. The other rooms are on the ground floor, and one or two open from the gallery; they have no windows, but receive their light from the doors, which are all curiously chequered and striped with a kind of black paint made from burnt wool, mixed with gum-water. As they are composed of many rounded pannels of date-wood, some appear like the backs of large old books. A little blackish rat was brought to me, which was really very curious; it had a head resembling that of a badger, with wool, mixed with gum-water. As they are composed of many rounded pannels of date-wood, some appear like the backs of large old books. A little blackish rat was brought to me, which was really very curious; it had a head resembling that of a badger, with the same peculiar marks by the side of the face; its tail was long, black, and rather bushy. Belford and myself contrived to make a cage for it out of a tin canister, and I discovered that it had the power of clinging to the bars, and climbing with its back downwards: it was very fierce, but I had great hopes of being able to bring it home, as well as three other animals, called by the Arabs

Dthub which resembled lizards in many respects, but were much more clumsily formed, and slower in their motions: their tails were broad, and covered with scaly spikes, and they could hang by their fore paws, which they had the power of closing on any object: their head and nose much resembled those of the hawk'sbill turtle, and to a certain degree, they changed their colour as cameleons do.

I was rubbed this day with a mixture, which the Arabs consider excellent in cases of fever, and which really, though it made me very dirty, rendered my skin quite comfortable : it was composed of a small aromatic seed, the name of which I have forgotten, with lavender from Tripoli, and cloves, pounded together, and mixed with oil and vinegar; it is rubbed over the whole body and head, until nearly dry. My doctress was a white woman of Tripoli, who, in fear of her life, had escaped from thence.

About eighteen months before this period, the Bashaw, one evening, surprised his black wives and a party of their female friends, making merry, or in other words, very drunk and noisy, and playing all sorts of extraordinary pranks; on sight of him they fled in all directions, leaving in his presence, his wife or wives, with this Tripoline woman and a Negress slave. The latter had her throat cut immediately in the presence of her mistress, the wives were threatened with death, and the white woman, named Sleema, the doctress above-mentioned, received five hundred bastinadoes; she was then allowed to depart, but the Bashaw afterwards thought proper to send after her, with an order that she should be strangled. She was fortunate enough to escape, and after wandering about for some time, attached herself to Lilla Fatma, who was also exiled and given to Sheikh Barood, with whom she arrived safely at Fezzan. The poor woman, owing to severe illness, was on the brink of the grave during her stay at Morzouk, which made her determine on leaving the place, and braving every danger by a return to Tripoli. On my coming away, she put herself under my protection, and I promised to intercede with the Bashaw for her pardon.


... The slaves were very much fatigued, and with great difficulty came up with us. I always observed that the females were much less exhausted by travelling than the males; the former walked together and sung in chorus, nearly the whole day, which enlivened them and beguiled the way. Lizari had four little girls, of whom the eldest was about eight, and the youngest four years old; these children were continually playing and running after each other, yet the smaller one was always as lively after a day's march, as at first setting out: she was apparently so little fatigued in an evening, as to be frequently reproved for keeping every one awake by her gambols. There was a merry boy, too, who frequently kept the Kaffle in a roar of laughter, by mimicking the auctioneer who sold him, and several of his countrymen, at the Morzouk market a few weeks before.

Tuesday, 7th March, very cloudy close weather. ... Myriads of sand flies distressed us very much by the sharpness of their bite. At seven we stopped at the wells and castle of Bonjem having made thirty-five miles. We were all on the alert this night, having been informed that a party of Orfilly, or Arabs of Benioleed, were encamped in a small cluster of date trees which were in sight from the well, and robbing every one that passed. They had tapped all the palms, and were living on lackbi, and the flesh of any stray camels they could find. A little artful boy, under pretence of wanting a skin of water, came to the well to reconnoitre, and on being questioned, gave some very suspicious answers; however, I suppose the report he made of our being constantly on guard secured us a quiet rest. A very heavy dew fell during the night; and we were aware that wild animals were prowling round us.

Wednesday, March 8th. Having filled four days' water, at twelve went on and encamped about four miles N.W. of Bonjem, to let the camels feed on the bushes, which were in great number. The day was very sultry, and the slaves had oil given them to grease themselves. I observed, that near the wells of Bonjem, the ground swarms with a species of tick, which attacks man and beast, is very nimble, and causes severe pain by its bite.

Thursday, March 9th.-We set off at eight in a very thick fog, which rendered it impossible to distinguish objects at a few yards distance. Our road was over a hilly gravelly ground, and we passed one or two Wadeys thickly set with bushes of talhh. Here I had an attack of hemma, and remained behind with my horse, that I might lie down and relieve the pain. At about one o'clock, being a little recovered, I mounted and followed the track of the camels, but soon lost it in a gravelly plain. I proceeded, in hopes of again finding it; but as we were amongst steep hills, all of nearly the same appearance, I could form no idea between which of them the Kaffle had taken its course. I ascended the highest hill to look for it, straining my eyes in all directions, but to no purpose: I succeeded, however, in galloping back to the spot where I had last seen the tracks, and fired my gun, but nothing replied to me, or broke on the awful stillness around. My situation now became very alarming, and my spirits began to sink, when I viewed the fearful prospect before me, which, if I failed to regain the Kaffle, threatened me with the horrors of a lingering and painful death.

I examined my saddle-bags, and found that they contained not a single article of provision; my powder-horn had unfortunately been left on my camel; my note-book, however, was luckily in my possession, and on looking over it, I found, what was of some importance to me, that I had marked all the back bearings. I knew, that whether I advanced or retraced my steps, I should equally be two days distant from a well and was aware that, even in reaching one, I might not have power to get at the water; my horse, at any rate, was not likely to survive two days' privation of it. In this extremity, and not knowing what direction to take, I found my only resource to preserve life, supposing I obtained water, would be to kill my poor animal, and to subsist on his flesh, with the hope of being, in the meantime, relieved by some passing traveller: but this chance was very remote, the road we were pursuing being but little frequented; and as to any other means of extricating myself, I could devise none. After some time passed in reflecting on what might probably be my melancholy fate if left on the desert, a sudden impulse induced me to trust to the guidance of my horse, and, giving him the reins, I allowed him to take what course he chose, little imagining how nearly I approached the end of my difficulties. Whilst proceeding on my way, almost hopeless of extricating myself, and in a direction quite contrary to that which I had fancied to be the right one, I unexpectedly perceived that I had crossed the track, and was actually in a Wadey full of talhh trees, bearing evident marks of having been recently passed over by our camels. Following this sure guide, I soon found myself once more in the safe path, and my feelings at such unlooked for and providential deliverance may be more easily imagined than described. As I was riding slowly along, I discovered, out of the track, a poor Negress lying under a bush, where, overcome by fatigue and illness, she had stopped behind, unregarded, to die.

Having myself so recently escaped the horrors of a lingering death, I felt tenfold commiseration for this poor helpless being; and having with some difficulty placed her on my horse, I took her quietly along; at such a pace indeed, as much to retard coming up with my people, whom I found in great alarm about me. They feared I must have strayed on the desert, or have fallen on the road from sickness; and such were their kind feelings towards me, that they sent a camel and a supply of water, provisions, and a carpet, with two men, to seek for me in all directions. I met them at 5.30. soon after they set out, and found that the Kaffle had, on my account, stopped for the night two hours before.

When I took the slave to her master, who was not aware of her being missing, he gave me no thanks, nor allowed the poor exhausted creature any food or refreshment; and had I not been present to prevent it, he would no doubt have added to her sufferings by a severe beating.

... <After arriving back at Tripoli> Notwithstanding my happiness at once more joining my Christian friends, I really felt no small regret at taking leave of our poor fellow travellers, many of whom I knew were destined to proceed to Tunis and Turkey. Their good humoured gaiety and songs had lightened to me many hours of pain and fatigue, and their gratitude for any little benefits I had it in my power to confer had quite warmed my heart towards them. Even when so exhausted as to be almost unable to walk, these poor creatures showed few instances of sulkiness or despondency; the first stanza of a song having been sung by one, enlivened the whole Kaffle, who immediately joined in chorus. Their patience under fatigue, and endurance of thirst, was very extraordinary. Khalifa's girls were allowed to drink only once in twenty-four hours, yet they were always cheerful.

I was frequently amused by observing the pains taken by these innocent savages to adorn themselves; their love of finery never ceasing, even when no one was near to admire them. Though overcome by privation of every kind, and by the fatigue of a long day's journey, they employed themselves in converting into neck ornaments, snail shells, berries, or any other whimsical objects they could meet with. Those who possessed rings, bead bands for the head, or silver ear-rings, never failed to put them on when they stopped for the, night, washing and oiling their skins whenever they had an opportunity; they also constantly used Kohl to blacken their eyelids, and to make different marks on the face.

One of the women of the Felleta had a little male child, which was carried by turns by the whole Kaffle. Her milk had failed her, and this poor infant had nothing to nourish him but a mixture of cold water and flour, unless I sometimes gave him some cusscussou. He, as well as his mother, was a shade lighter than a mulatto, which is generally the colour of their tribe.

Several of the girls carried with them an instrument called Zantoo. It is a long gourd hollowed out, having a hole at each end, and is played by striking one end against the calf of the leg, and occasionally stopping the other by a quick blow of the open hand. It has a very pleasing effect when well played, and the glass armlets, which are sometimes worn to the number of eight or ten on each arm, add to it a pretty tinkling sound. Whenever a party had a little outwalked the Kaffle, and sat down to rest, the Zantoos were set in motion, and were accompanied by their plaintive national airs. The wild music and picturesque appearance of these resting parties was very pleasing, and I seldom passed one of them without having a lively chorus addressed to me.

There is a small bush found on the Desert, called by the slaves Wussawussa, with leaves resembling those of box in form, but tender, and having a very salt taste; these the slaves collected whenever they could, and boiled with their evening meal; and the flavour is not unpleasant.

In some of the wadeys were many thorny bushes bearing small black berries, called Dummagh , or "brains," which have a very sweet, but at the same time astringent taste, and of which these poor girls always brought me large supplies, in return for my assisting those who were fatigued or thirsty. In fact, Belford and myself, being the only persons who did not beat or ill treat them, became great favourites; and my talents in particular were so highly appreciated, that not a male or female slave tore or wore out their sandal feathers, but they were immediately brought to me to be repaired, as I had always some leather in my pocket for that purpose: I thus became cobbler to the whole Kaffle.

None of the owners ever moved without their whips, which were in constant use; that of Hadje Mohammed more so than the rest: in fact, he was so perpetually flogging his poor slaves, that I was frequently obliged to disarm him. Drinking too much water, bringing too little wood, or falling asleep before the cooking was finished, were considered nearly capital crimes, and it was in vain for these poor creatures to plead the excuse of being tired; nothing could at all avert the application of the whip. No slave dares to be ill or unable to walk; but when the poor sufferer dies, the master suspects there must have been something "wrong inside," and regrets not having liberally applied the usual remedy of burning the belly with a red hot iron; thus reconciling to themselves their cruel treatment of these unfortunate creatures.

I settled with my camel-men the day after my arrival in Tripoli, and having, great reason to fear that Belford's health was too much injured to proceed immediately, I agreed to remain there a short time, that he might be benefited by the advice of my friend, Dr. Dickson, who had kindly taken him under his care: he had been for six months afflicted with dysentery, was quite deaf, and so reduced as to be nearly a skeleton ...


<Remarks about the Desert> ... Having, from the time of leaving Tripoli until my return from Fezzan, been constantly on the Desert, I shall endeavour to give a description of the country so called. In all our maps, Sahara is the appellation used to distinguish that immense tract, known also by the name of the Great Desert.

Oasis is the term used for fertile spots or islands, said to be situated on the Sahara; and Fezzan is supposed to be one of these Oasis: whereas, it is now evident, that it also is a Desert, with the exception of palms and small gardens, cultivated with great labour and difficulty, in the immediate vicinity of towns. No herbage ever grows spontaneously, except in wadeys or amongst rocks; and these in such small patches, that I never yet saw a spot covered with verdure of the size of a table, unless in the mountains near Tripoli. The Arabs have a name for every description of waste or desert, viz. the following:

1 Sahara

2 Ghrood

3 Sereery

4 Warr

5 Hatia

6 Wishek

7 Ghraba or Jezeera

8 Soobker

9 Wadey

10 Gibel

Sahara is the name commonly used to particularise that description of Desert which is of sand alone, forming a plane surface, without either stones, rocks, water, or any sustenance capable of supporting animal or vegetable life, with a smooth horizon and without beaten paths.

Ghrood are those species of sand hills which I mentioned having some being so steep as to be entirely impassable: others, and indeed all of this particular name, are traversed with difficulty. In some instances, palms grow on these hills; which are generally situated on the borders of stony plains, where the wind has collected and formed them.

Sereer is the appellation of gravelly plains, from which the sand has been swept by the force of the winds; and it is on this kind of Desert alone that sand hills are found. The gravel is generally of a small size: in some instances, rounded as pebbles on a sea beach; in others, sharp and pointed, as if recently broken; and a third kind is not unfrequently seen, covering spaces of many miles in extent, of stones which have a shining exterior, as if highly polished.

Warr is a rough plain, covered with large detached stones lying in confusion, and very difficult to pass over. The tops of mountains, particularly the Soudah, are distinguished by this name: it is, in fact, applied to such tracts of country as are only travelled with the greatest fatigue and difficulty, on account of the many obstacles thrown in the way by stones, small hillocks, &c.

Hatia implies a spot which possesses, in a slight degree, the power of fertility, and produces a few small stinted shrubs, scattered at intervals, on Nvhich camels way make a scanty meat or travellers a fire.

Wishek: sand hills or plains, which aford only wild, unproductive, or uncultivated date bushes, are called by this name. All Wishek bear the appearance of having been formerly what are called

Ghraba, which is a term always used to distinguish parts which produce cultivated or fruit-bearing palms, but having no town near them; the owners of the dates only coming in the season to collect them. Zezeera is a term also used in common with Ghraba, but I believe only by Fezzanners.

Soobker is the designation of salt-plains, which are marshy in winter, and in summer become broken and rough by the influence of the sun; or of that particular species found in Fezzan, where the salt and earth or sand are so closely combined, as to form a substance resembling stone, and equally hard to cut or break. One of these plains, between Traghan and Mafen, is about three or four miles in the broadest part, and above twenty-five in length.

Wadey is a term of which I have frequently made use, yet I have given but a slight explanation of. It is a valley in which shrubs grow, or through which the rains form a temporary stream. Near Tripoli the Wadeys are sometimes the courses of impetuous torrents; but in Fezzan, where rain is almost unknown, they are smooth dens, very rarely producing a single plant. A small rift in the mountains, capable of containing only eight or ten camels abreast, is as much a Wadey as a large valley containing a town or towns, and the date trees belonging to such settlements.

Gibel, or Mountain, is a term I need not explain; but merely as showing that it is by no means a matter of course that a Desert must be flat, or nearly so, as even in the kingdom of Fezzan, mountains are very numerous.

Sahara, therefore, is only applicable to sandy districts, and the Arabs only use the word Berr, or country, as a general term. In no part of the Desert, which I have seen, or of which I could obtain accounts, does it appear that water is found on the surface: hence it seems extraordinary, that wild animals should exist; yet antelopes, buffaloes, and some other animals, are, in different places, very numerous. Rats are frequently found to burrow in plains twenty or thirty miles distant from shrubs, and their food is unknown; no birds being found there, and the small lizards and snakes, as well as the few insects, being too active to be caught by them. In some parts, the only living creature seen for many days is a small insect somewhat resembling a spider, called Naga t' Allah, or the "She camel of God," Beetles are also seen where Kaffles rest, or in the vicinity of shrubs; and their curious tracks in the sand are so marked, that I have sometimes traced the same insect for a mile or two as I rode along.

Nothing can be more awful than the stillness which prevails, more particularly when the surface is sandy. I have sometimes walked at night from the Kaffle, so as to be beyond the noise made by the camels or horses, and have experienced a sensation I am unable to describe, as I felt the wind blow past me, and heard the sound which my figure caused it to make, by arresting its progress. Near towns, or in places where animals can exist, the slow melancholy cry of the hyena or jackal is frequently heard during the night, when these animals prowl round the Kaffle.

The appearance of water on the sandy and gravelly deserts is very frequent, and is generally so well defined, that it would be difficult to distinguish it from a river, were it possible that both could be seen at the same time. It is called Shrab by the Arabs, who often amused themselves by calling to us that water was in sight, until we became accustomed to the appearance. Of this curious phenomenon so much has been said by various writers, that any attempt at description on my part would be unnecessary. The looming of objects when the sun is at its greatest strength, is very striking; as from the vapour which rises, they are, at a slight distance, much obscured. I have frequently, in riding along, been delighted at observing in the distance, a tree which appeared sufficiently large to shade me from the sun, and to allow of my reposing under it, until the camels came up; and have often quickened my pace in consequence, until, on a near approach, it has proved to be nothing more than a bush, which did not throw a shade sufficient even to shelter one of my hands. Sand hills deceive still more, always appearing very distant when the sun is on them; and it has often happened, that I have been startled by seeing a man or camel rise close to me, on the top of one of the apparently distant hills. The excessive dryness of the Desert is in some places very extraordinary, particularly to the southward of the Soudah mountains, where, in going to as well as coming from Fezzan, I observed that our clothes, and the tails of our horses, emitted electric sparks.

Water is not to be found by digging in all parts of the Desert; but is more particularly difficult to find in the Sereer, or gravel, which generally lies over sand stone. In two instances I have seen remains of pits which had been dug to one hundred feet without coming to water. The wells which are on the Desert are generally found in Wadeys or in the sandy country; and in all those I have seen, the water was salt and putrid, but the putrescence diminished after a quantity had been drawn. Some wells have only a sufficiency for the supply of five or six horses at once, and are a long time before they again fill. The wells which were so scantily supplied, I observed, were always in a soft clayey rock; but those which kept themselves tolerably full, were in a yellow clay. The depths vary from 6 or 8 feet to 70 or 80.

In almost every part of the stony desert, small piles of stones are frequently discovered, which are erected by travellers as marks to direct them across the country, or in the event of their missing their route, to assist them again to find it. These little heaps are called Aalum or "teachers"; and some become so remarkable, as to acquire other names, and to be favourite resting-places of Kaffles.





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