OF THE ARABS
The Arabs are, generally speaking, tall, straight, and well
formed, and inclined, from their manner of living, to be thin and
muscular. Their countenances are expressive and handsome, their
form of face oval, and their noses aquiline. Although naturally
white, their complexion becomes dark from continual exposure to
the sun, and from not being very particular in their ablutions.
They are active; capable of undergoing great fatigue and
abstinence from food; lively in their manners; daring, and
possessed of much cunning: though generous, they are great
beggars; revengeful and unforgiving. The general costume of the
men is a large loose shirt and trowsers of cotton, sandals, or
tight half boots of red leather, which lace in front, fit close
round the ankle, and rise as high as the calf of the leg. On
their beads they wear a red cap, which is long enough to hang a
little down on one side; from the top of it falls a tassel of
blue silk. A wrapper of woollen (from about twenty to twenty-five feet in length, and five or six in breadth), woven rather
more compactly than flannel, is thrown round the body in folds,
part being placed over the head in the manner of a hood, while
the end is thrown over the left shoulder, and hangs down behind
the back. This article of dress has several names, according to
its texture. The most coarse and heavy is called Aba. That
between this and the finest (called Jereed) is named Kholi; but
in Tripoli, all three are known under the appellation of
Barracan. A large cloak, having a hood, and no sleeves, and composed of closely and well-woven wool without a seam, is used in
rainy or cold weather over the Barracan, and is called Bornouse.
The dress of the females differs but little from that of the men
in materials, but they put it on in a different manner. The
poorest class wear only the Barracan, which is passed over the
head and fastened at the waist; others have a shirt in addition
to this. Young women wear their hair in tresses, to which they
attach beads, pieces of coral, silver, or any other gaudy thing
which they can procure; and they have one or two large silver
ornaments in the form of crescents, fastened on the right side of
the head, on which they also frequently wear a large woollen
turban of blue, wrapped carelessly round. From their ears are
suspended a multitude of silver rings, and round their necks they
hang rows of beads of various colours. The old women frizzle
their hair over the forehead, so as to make it project to some
distance; and they dye it of a dull red, with the leaves of a
plant called Henna, which gives it the appearance of red wool.
All the females have a practice of tattooing their chins, the
tips of their noses, and between the eyebrows. Their necks and
arms are also frequently marked. The favourite figure is that of
a hand, which is intended to avert the "Evil Eye." They wear red
lacing boots, in the same manner as the men. When young (that is
to say, fifteen or sixteen), they have fine figures, and are
exceedingly handsome; but they soon lose their good looks and
pleasing form, and become as ugly as they were before beautiful.
Their eyes are black and large; their noses straight and well
proportioned; they have small lips, and their teeth are
exquisitely white. Nothing, in fact, can exceed in prettiness an
Arab girl; but the old women are, without exception, the most
disgusting and hideous creatures I ever beheld. Both sexes
blacken their eyelids with Kohol, or lead ore powdered, which
adds much to the brilliancy of the eye, and makes it appear
larger than it really is. They all wear an immense quantity of
Agebs or Charms, against disorders and misfortunes.
The arms of the Arabs are the same as those of the natives of
Tripoli, viz. guns, pistols, swords, and daggers. They are good
shots, when able to rest their guns; but otherwise cannot easily
manage them. The gun is slung over the shoulders, and the
pistols are worn in a belt, which is hung round the body, and
which contains the ammunition. They are constantly. armed with
both these weapons; but the sword is seldom carried, unless when
they ride on horseback ; it is then suspended by the side of the
saddle, in such a way as to remain under the left leg, with the
hilt near the pommel. They generally procure their powder and
lead from Tripoli, though some possess the art of making a kind
of inferior powder amongst themselves.
In the Tripoline dominions, and in Fezzan also, there are two
kinds of Arabs, one wanderers, the other fixed residents in
towns; those in towns (as Benioleed for example) travel much
about the country, but always return to what they consider as
their home. The wanderers have no permanent Place of abode, but
remove their tents as pasturage or circumstances require. These
tents are made of woollen, coarsely woven in long pieces and sewn
together. They spread to a great breadth, but are not high; the
entrance being about six feet, and the top sloping gradually down
till it is fastened to the ground. They are so divided by means
of mats or carpets, that the women have a separate Place from the
men, and can be hidden from the gaze of strangers : they,
however, so manage it, as to see without being themselves
observed. These dwellings of the Arabs are called by their
inhabitants, Beit el Shar, or "hair houses," and Nejja also. By
means of bushes, almost every tent has an inclosure adjoining it,
for securing sheep or goats at night; and stakes are driven in
the ground, to which the horses are fastened, though sometimes
these animals are allowed a portion of the tents of their
masters. The Arabs are generous to their own kinsmen; and should
a stranger come amongst them, they never deny him the rights of
hospitality, provided they are themselves eating; but should that
not be the case, they make no attempt to prepare food expressly
for him an acquaintance, however, is always sure of a good
reception.
The Bedouins of Barbary are not to be compared with those of
Egypt, either for enterprise, ingenuity, or good qualities; since
whatever they may have been, they are now, by the tyranny of
their masters, fallen from their once high character, and are not
in any respect better than slaves. One or two tribes are yet independent, but are likely soon to fall. Each tribe, or even set
of tents, is governed by a Sheikh, who, being an old man, or one
appointed by the Bashaw, is looked up to as a superior; though
his business is chiefly to collect the requisite sums of money
from his people. Some years back, these Sheikhs commanded their
tribes in the wars of plunder, or in defence of their liberties,
and were then chosen by the voice of the people, for their
courage and military skill; but all offensive or defensive wars
being now at an end, in consequence of their repeated and bloody
overthrows by the Bashaw, the name of Sheikh has no honour
attached to it. In some cases, indeed, individuals refuse to
undertake the office, lest the Bashaw should make them
responsible for any faults committed by their followers.
In their Religion, the Arabs are great bigots, very
superstitious, and easily alarmed about the enchantments and
wiles of Iblis (or the devil), to whom they attribute many of
their misfortunes and illnesses. To the prayers enjoined by the
Koran they are very attentive, and, unless in travelling, never
omit repeating them at the appointed periods. Of the name and
attributes of God they never speak without reverence; and they
have a profound respect for Idiots, whom they consider as people
beloved of Heaven, and totally unable to think of the things of
this world.
Marriages are contracted in most instances without either party
having seen the other, the agreement being entirely on the part
of the parents of the bride, and the bridegroom, the consent of
the females never being asked. There are certain marriage
presents which are always given by the husband to the relations
of his wife, so that he may be said to purchase her of them.
Though four wives are allowed to all Mohammedans, the Arabs very
rarely possess so many, few having more than two, and some only
one.
It is not their custom to have Negresses living with them, which
may be accounted for by their dislike to being considered as the
fathers of children of colour. The settled Arabs are not so
scrupulous; but are, notwithstanding, more so than the Moors.
The ceremony observed in conducting a bride to her husband is
very singular; and having myself been an eye-witness of it, I
made a drawing representing the camel used on such occasions,
with its gay trappings.
A frame being fixed on the back of the animal, the bride is
placed in it, and, while thus sitting, is housed over with
carpets, shawls, and ostrich feathers. In travelling from place
to place, or in searching for pasture ground, the people make use
of these frames; but they are in such cases generally uncovered,
and have baskets, or other frame-work, attached to their sides,
in which the young children are placed. An Arab family on its
march presents a very extraordinary appearance, the camels being
laden with tents, cooking utensils, women, and children. The men
walk, driving their flocks before them, or ride their horses,
frequently without bridle or saddle. Should the journey exceed
one day, a temporary tent is erected at night; and at the dawn of
morning, all is again placed on the camels. The operation of
erecting or taking down one of their hair houses does not occupy
much time, as the women always assist the men on these occasions.
The dogs guard the flocks during the night, and are very fierce.
In colour they are white, resembling wolves in form, and having
long bushy tails. They howl rather than bark, and with great
apparent courage attack every stranger who approaches them,
though when threatened with a stick or stone, they run yelping
away. It frequently happens, that the spot fixed on as a temporary residence is far distant from any well, sometimes even
three days of the ordinary march of flocks; yet this does not
dishearten the persevering Arab, who, notwithstanding, drives his
sheep once a week to drink. They feed as they go and come, and
therefore do not suffer much on their long journey. The wants of
the people are easily supplied; a few skins of water being
brought at stated times by a camel, and economised with great
care. I have remarked, that not only the Arabs and their camels,
but all animals in this country have the power of remaining a
great length of time without water. Sheep, (provided they have
tolerable herbage), will pass even a month without drinking.
Antelopes and buffaloes, I should conceive, in some cases never
taste water, none being found on the surface of the desert, and
they are unable to obtain that which is in the wells. On the
other hand, wolves, hyenas, foxes, and jackals, are less capable
of enduring thirst. They descend such wells (or more properly
pits) as are not deep; and the vicinity of one of these places is
frequently ascertained from observing the tracks of animals,
which, during the night, go there to drink.
The Bedouins sow their scanty stock of corn, after turning up the
earth with a rude plough, or more generally with a hoe. These
cultivated spots are respected by other wanderers, and the corn
is rarely stolen; should the Bashaw, indeed, be at war with the
Arabs, he never fails to destroy their crops. When a sufficient
time has elapsed to allow of the grain being in a state of
maturity, those to whom it belongs come and gather in their
harvest (sometimes before it is perfectly ripe), lest the Bashaw
should be informed of the circumstance, and deprive them of a
larger portion than they can afford; emissaries, indeed, are
never wanting, who make it their business to ascertain the exact
time when the corn is to be cut, and then pounce on the poor
Arabs for the Bashaw's share of it. To avoid such taxes,
therefore, they sometimes gather it so prematurely, that it will
not serve as seed for the ensuing year. When the date season
commences, many, families come and pitch their tents in the
Meshea of Tripoli, in order to purchase dates for their future
subsistence; these they deprive of the stones, and when kneaded
together, keep them in skins, so as to preserve them from insects
or wet: these form their chief support, assisted by the milk of
their sheep and camels. That of the camel, as I have before
noticed, is thin, of a bluish colour (resembling cow's milk mixed
with water), and rather salt to the taste; it throws up no cream,
but soon coagulates like new curds. The ewe milk is excellent,
but is never drank fresh, the Arabs preferring it sour, or, more
properly, as butter-milk. The flocks are milked morning and
night into large bowls, and when a sufficient quantity is thus
collected, it is poured into skins, without much attention being
paid to its cleanliness, when by shaking and rolling it about,
butter is procured, and generally attaches itself to the side of
the skin; the milk being then strained from it into other
vessels, is allowed to grow sour, and a quantity of butter being
produced, it is boiled with a little salt until it becomes like
oil, and is then poured into goat-skins, and is fit for use or
market.
Cheese is procured by turning the milk with a certain herb (the
name of which I have forgotten), and the curds, being salted, are
spread out to dry in the sun, when they resemble little crums,
and are very pleasant to the taste. I did not see any other kind
of cheese than the one I have mentioned, and this is rather
scarce, and used as a luxury in many of their little messes.
Sometimes it is toasted, and has a very agreeable flavour. It is
called Jibn.
A great article of commerce is the fat which the shepherds
procure from the sheep they kill. They cut it from every part of
the body, salt it, and lay it by until a large quantity is
collected, when, whether putrid or not, they boil it, until it
bear some resemblance to the grease used by tallow-chandlers ; it
is then poured into skins, and is fit for use. In the interior
it sells at about a shilling a pound; but at Tripoli it is much
cheaper. It is put into almost every article of food by the
Arabs, and though not very savoury, we soon became accustomed to
its taste. It is called Shahm. From the wool of their sheep,
the women make strong barracans, carpets, shirts, turbans, and
many ornaments. Their tents too are made of wool and goats'
hair, as are also sacks, which are used to carry corn and
merchandise on the camels. Mats and ornaments of palm leaves or
grass are neatly made. Their dyes are generally brilliant;
black, blue, red, and orange; in fact, every colour excepting
green, which they find much difficulty in producing; though at
Tripoli the dyers succeed very well in it. The looms of the Arab
women are on the ground; they have no shuttles, but with much
trouble pass the threads through with their fingers, generally
lightening their labour with songs. The men seldom work while in
their tents, and their time seems to hang much heavier on their
hands than that of the women, who with cooking and other domestic
employments are generally pretty well occupied. No woman eats in
the presence of a man, and wives always wait on their husbands.
The domestic animals consist of poultry, sheep, goats, camels,
horses, and dogs: they all live under the same canopy as their
masters, and are on good terms amongst themselves. The horses
are perfectly quiet, being brought up with the children of the
family. They would be a fine race, but that the want of good
food prevents their acquiring a handsome appearance; add to
which, the ambition of possessing well fed and comely animals
does not now exist; for should any of the Bashaw's people wish to
appropriate a fine horse, the owner dares not refuse to sell him,
at whatever low price may be offered. Still, however, many of
the Arabs breed them expressly for the market, bringing them
while foals for sale. I have seen some of them brought in this
way, which, when taken care of, became remarkably handsome, and
unlike the generality belonging to the Bedouins. In the bazaars
at Tripoli I have sometimes observed very fine ones, which were
brought from the Desert, and sold for forty or fifty dollars
(about eleven or twelve pounds sterling) a piece. All have long
tails, and are entire; a great defect is, however, almost general
amongst them, in consequence of their being mounted when too
young; which is, that their backs are very hollow, and their hind
quarters appear higher than their fore. Colts of twelve months
are frequently seen, staggering beneath the weight of a heavy
man, his arms, water skin, and food. The Arabs consider a large
belly as very handsome; and some horses, from the nature of their
food, acquire such rotundity in this-respect, that they appear
like mares in foal.
A light mane and tail on a chesnut horse is considered unlucky;
the colour, though common, is not much admired, and the feet of
such animals are accounted soft and tender. Bay is the favourite
colour next to light grey, which is much in request, the Bashaw
generally riding horses of this description.
Much importance is attached to the manner in which the legs are
coloured, stockinged horses being in the extremes of good or bad
luck, according to the disposition of the white. If both forelegs are marked, it is good; if one hind and one fore leg are
marked on the same side, it is very unlucky; or if one alone is
white, it is equally unfortunate; but if opposite legs (off fore
and near hind) are light, nothing can be more admired.
Ridiculous as these fancies may appear, they nevertheless
influence the price of horses, sometimes to even a sixth of their
value.
In sandy parts of the desert shoeing is never used; but where the
animals are to pass over mountains, it is absolutely necessary.
The Arab shoes are ... formed ... turning up behind; and are, in
general, so badly put on, that there are few horses to be found
which have not been injured in their feet. The Arab's forge is
simple, and almost every man is his own blacksmith. A small mud
or clay wall is built to the height of a foot or eighteen inches;
a hole is then made even with the ground, and an iron pipe
introduced. To this are attached two skins, which open at the
upper end by means of two sticks, having a small leather handle
on each: the thumb is passed through one of these, and the
fingers through the other; so that the hand easily opens and
shuts the skin. The mouth being closed, the skin is pressed
down, and throws a strong blast through the pipe. It is again
opened and lifted up, when it is once more ready. Thus,
alternately with each hand, the current of air is kept up to the
fire which lies over the pipe. Camel's dung is used when
charcoal cannot be procured, and gives a very strong heat. The
anvil is a small square-ended piece of iron, which is sunk in a
log of wood, and partly buried in the sand. An ordinary hammer,
and a pair or two of pincers, complete the apparatus.
The mill is equally simple, being composed of two circular
stones, one of which lies flat on the other, and is turned by a
small handle placed on it; this is fixed by a pivot from the
lower one, and has a hole in the centre, through which it is
supplied with grain.
The messes made with flour are few, and may be thus enumerated:
Cusscussou, Bazeen, Dweeda, Atila, Mogatta, Zumeita, Bread,
Fetaat. Cusscussou being a dish very generally mentioned in all
books of travels, I shall attempt to describe the manner in which
it is made; and I trust I may be allowed, however trifling the
subject, to mention in the same manner the other articles of
food, as I believe they are at present only known by name.
The corn for Cusscussou is ground expressly to the state which is
called Semolina in Italy, and used also under that name in England. The hand being clean washed, and a large wooden bowl
prepared, a portion of semolina is thrown into it with the right
hand; it is turned quickly round under the palm, while from the
left, water is occasionally sprinkled upon the mass, together
with dry semolina. In a short time, by turning it constantly the
same way, the flour adheres in little granules, like bread crums;
and by a dexterous motion of the hand, is prevented from forming
into large lumps. When finished, the grains resemble small shot
in size, and stick closely together, without danger of again
falling into flour on being dried. They will keep good in this
state nearly as long as corn. When Cusscussou is to be prepared
for eating, it is put in a basket, or tin vessel having holes in
the bottom, and steamed over meat, or boiling water, care being
taken to stir it occasionally, so as to prevent its caking. When
sufficiently done, meat is poured on with its gravy, or a little
butter or grease mixed with it; should meat be wanting, a good
quantity of red pepper and salt are frequently all its
auxiliaries.
Bazeen (which in Fezzan is called Aseeda) is the most common
food, as being the easiest prepared. It is made of the flour of
any grain (Bishna and Barley are mostly used near Tripoli) in the
following manner. A large pot, of copper or iron, is placed on
the fire, with a little water in it, which is suffered to boil.
Flour is then thrown in, until it acquires the consistency of
dough, when it is stirred well about with a large stick (water
being occasionally added, if necessary,) until it is quite thick,
and begins to assume the appearance of a pudding, when it is
taken out, and placed in a bowl. After being beat into a
circular shape, and having a hole made in the centre, gravy, oil,
butter, or grease, is poured on it, and it is then ready for
eating, which is done by pinching pieces out with the right hand,
and kneading them with the grease until they assume the
appearance of thick paste. Should there be no gravy or grease to
be procured, a little flour mixed with hot water is used instead
of it. It requires much strength of arm to make bazeen properly,
as the stick is wielded by both hands, and the pot is confined on
the fire by having a forked piece of wood placed against it, on
which the woman kneels while preparing the mess.
Dweeda is moulded in the shape of little seeds, not quite so
large as the grains of rice; but oblong, and much resembling
them. A stiff dough being prepared, the women very expeditiously
pinch it out between their fingers and thumbs into this form. It
is then allowed to dry; and is considered a great dainty when
boiled, and a little butter poured over it.
Atila is composed much in the same way; but is longer, and much
resembles small macaroni broken in pieces. It is also boiled in
the same manner as Dweeda.
Mogatta is made of paste, by being beaten and turned between the
hands, until it is as thin as a pancake ; it is then laid in the
sun to harden a little. When it becomes sufficiently crisp to
break, it is crumbled in pieces, and boiled until it resembles
thick porridge, the larger always remaining entire. A sufficient
quantity of fat and pepper completes it.
Zumeeta is made of barley, which has been a little malted; it is
then ground into flour, and sometimes dates are pounded with it.
In this state it remains until it is to be used; when a little
cold water being mixed with it until it becomes like dough, it is
fit for eating. Oil is much used with it, by dipping the Zumeeta
in it when formed into mouthfuls for eating. This is almost the
only stock which Arabs provide on going a journey, as it is
easily prepared, and very nourishing.
Bread is made as in Europe. It is leavened with flour, or a
preparation f dates, moulded into little cakes shaped like buns.
The ovens are generally formed in the ground: a hole is made
about two feet in depth, and in the shape of a large jar,
contracted at the mouth; it is then encrusted inside with clay.
Wood is thrown in and burnt, until a thick layer of glowing ashes
is collected at the bottom, and the oven is thoroughly heated;
the loaves are then put in by a woman, who bares and wets her
arm, and sticks them against the side with great dexterity: when
done enough, if not speedily taken off, they fall into the
embers. Sometimes meat is dressed in these ovens; a kind of
crumpet, also, called Fetaat, made in the same way as Mogatta,
but without leaven, is slightly baked in them; one of these
crumpets is then placed in a bowl, and soup and vegetables are
poured over it; another is then put in, and soup added as before,
and so on in successive layers, until the bowl is full. All
these messes are eaten with the fingers.
There is great variety in the manner of dressing meat, which is
stewed, boiled, or baked; but for journeys the Arabs have a very
good way of preserving it, by cutting it into thin slices, drying
it in the sun, and afterwards stewing it in fat. I have often
observed them eating small grasses, which they found as they
pursued their journey; and to my inquiries how they knew them to
be innoxious, the general reply was, that whatever an animal
which chewed its cud could eat with safety, must be food for man.
There is a species of dandelion, very bitter, and exuding a white
juice, which is much liked by the sheep as well as their masters.
The taste at first is very unpleasant; but I soon became
accustomed to it. The Colocynth apple grows in great quantities
in some parts of the Desert, and is almost the only medicine used
by the Arabs. Burning is always had recourse to, and many of
them are in consequence covered with scars; it is also
occasionally used to show the force of love; and both sexes
practise it when they wish to give proof of very strong
affection.
Wolves, young dogs, cats, and hedgehogs, though forbidden
animals, are not unfrequently eaten by sick persons, from a
belief that their flesh is medicinal, or, as they express it,
"Doua." Charms are much worn, and are procured from such as are
considered Mariiboots amongst themselves, or from the Scribes of
Tripoli. It is not enough that the man should be defended by
these little prayers sewed up in leather, and attached to his
arms or body; but his horse, gun, sword, and red cap must be
equally protected with himself. The "Evil Eye" is of all other
mischiefs most dreaded, and for a stranger to express particular
admiration of a child, a horse, or any other valuable, is to
bring on it or its possessor certain misfortune; this may,
however, be averted by passing over the object a finger wetted
with saliva, or by the equally efficacious charm of an open band,
either attached to the clothes as an ornament, or tattooed on the
skin. It is remarkable that no Arab will take a knife or
scissars from the hands of any one, as (from some superstitious
prejudice) such an action is considered highly unfortunate; but
they require that the instrument should be first laid on the
ground, whence they readily take it up without fear.
The Arabs have but few amusements beyond Dancing and a Game
called Helga, which resembles draughts, and is played with
camels' dung or date stones, in holes made in the sand. The
noise uttered by these people at their festivals, or on any
joyful occasion, is most extraordinary; and being very shrill, it
may be heard at a great distance, particularly if several persons
join in chorus: it is a piercing cry from the throat (the mouth
being quite open), to which a tremulous sound is given by a rapid
motion of the tongue from side to side; it is very enlivening,
and when it becomes familiar to the ear, far from disagreeable.
The manner of salutation used amongst the Arabs is particularly
striking, and certainly not ungraceful. Friends on meeting,
seize each the right hand of the other, then loosen and apply the
tips of their fingers to their mouths, afterwards laying the open
hand on the heart, they press it and gently incline the head at
the same time. Very intimate acquaintances mutually lift their
joined right hands in such a manner that each kisses the back of
the other's hand, repeating with the greatest rapidity, "How are
you? well, how are you? Thank God, how are you? God bless you,
how are you?" which compliments in a well bred man never last
less than ten minutes; and whatever may be the conversation
afterwards, it is a mark of great good breeding occasionally to
interrupt it, bowing solemnly and asking, "How are you?" though
an answer to the question is by no means considered necessary, as
he who asks it is perhaps looking another way, and thinking of
something else. I must not omit to mention a particular instance
of good breeding which I met with amongst these people: a man
begged me one day to reach him a piece of straw which lay near
me, that he might take out of a cup of water a bird which had
fallen into it. I perceived, however, that it was only a Fly;
and was afterwards informed that they consider it disrespectful
to make use of the word Fly in presence of a superior.
The questions asked and observations made by some of the inland
Arabs respecting our country were very curious; amongst other
extraordinary fancies, they have an idea, originating in the name
given to the Atlantic, Bahr el blem, sea of darkness, that we
have no Sun or Moon in the countries which are in the sea, and in
consequence, they imagine that our ships sail about with great
lanterns attached to them. They also believe that Christians use
the milk of pigs as a beverage, and in fact, that it forms their
chief subsistence. That we have horses, cows, and sheep, is not
at all credited by them; and that our country should be destitute
of dates excites their greatest commiseration ...
<The town of Sockna> ... Sockna stands on an immense plain of
gravel; bounded to the south by the Soudah mountains, at about
fifteen miles; by the mountains of Wadan about thirty miles to
the eastward; a distant range to the west; and those I have
already mentioned on passing through to the north. The town is
walled, and may contain 2000 persons: more than half the people
we saw this day were from Hoon and Wadan. There are small
projections from the walls, having loop-holes for musketry. It
has seven gates, only one of which will admit a loaded camel.
The streets are very narrow, and the houses are built of mud and
small stones mixed, many of them having a story above the ground
floor. A small court is open in the centre; and the windows, or
more properly the doors, which open from this area, give the only
light which the rooms receive. The water of Sockna is almost all
brackish or bitter. There are 200,000 date trees in the
immediate neighbourhood of the town, which pay duty; also an
equal number, not yet come into bearing, which are exempt. These
dates grow in a belt of sand, at about two or three miles distant
from the town, and are of a quality far superior to any produced
in the north of Africa. Owing to their excellence, they are sold
at a very high price at Tripoli. The adjoining country is
entirely destitute of shrubs, or any kind of food for camels,
which are therefore sent to graze about five miles off; while in
the town all animals are fed on dates. Sheep are brought here
from Benioleed, and are, in consequence of coming from such a
distance, very dear. In the gardens, which are about three miles
from the town, barley, maize, and gussob, are cultivated, as well
as a few onions, turnips, and peppers. The quantity of flies
here is immense, and all the people carry little flappers, made
of bunches of wild bulls' hair, tied to a short stick, in order
to keep these pests at a distance. The dates all being deposited
in storehouses in the town, may account, in some degree, for the
multitude of these insects ; which, in a few minutes, fill every
dish or bowl containing any liquid. The duties paid by this
place amount to 2000 dollars annually, exclusive of a tax of one
dollar on each two hundred date trees. All the people attached
to the Sultan, and ourselves also, received food twice a day from
the Sheikh, who collected it from the inhabitants; our horses
likewise got a daily portion of dates.
The costume here is the same as that of the Bedouins, consisting
generally of a shirt and barracan, a red cap, and sandals: a few,
whose circumstances allow of it, dress in the costume of Tripoli.
The neat appearance of the men, in general, is very striking,
compared with that of the Arabs about the coast. The women are
considered exceedingly handsome; indeed, one or two whom I saw at
Fatma's were really so, and as fair as Europeans; but they are
noted for their profligacy and love of intrigue.
<The town of Hoon> ... It is a smaller town than Sockna, but
walled, and built in the same manner: its palms and gardens are
close to the walls. It has three gates, three mosques, and a
large building which is dignified with the name of a castle,
although it does not appear even to have a loophole for musketry.
The inhabitants, having about three hundred muskets, came out to
welcome Yussuf, and we met with the same boisterous reception as
was given a few days before to the Sultan. A number of dancing
women performed in the court of the house in which we were
assembled, the greatest part of the day; and in the evening the
slaves joined the concert with their cymbals. The whole was so
completely to the taste of Mukni's men, and continued so long,
that the performers were literally tired out. When they came to
request corn or money from the spectators, it was to us they
first applied, as considering us the greatest personages ; but we
were so poor, in despite of our fine garments, that we actually
had nothing to give, which disappointed and astonished them much.
In the burying-grounds near the town we observed that nearly all
the graves were ornamented with one or more ostrich eggs, as were
the doors and angles of the mosques, and their enclosures. We
entered the tomb of a Maraboot, and standing near the grave,
recited the "Fatha" aloud. In the evening, we visited the
gardens, which are close to the town, the latter being completely
hidden from the view by the thick palms which surround it. The
soil is sand, but the grain was in the most luxuriant state of
forwardness, owing to its being constantly refreshed by little
channels from the wells the water of which is brackish.
<The town of Wadan> ... the town is not walled, and appears very
inferior to the other two <Hoon and Sockna> in point of neatness,
comfort, and convenience, though its aspect is much more
Pleasing, as it is built on a conical hill, on the top of which
are some enclosed houses, called the Castle. Here there is a
well of great depth, cut through the solid rock, and evidently
not the work of the Bedouins. One of the Shreefs took us into a
mosque, that we might examine a curious stone, bearing an Arabic
inscription in raised letters, and, from its date, it must have
been above six hundred years old. It was let into the mud wall,
but no one knew where it had been found. Mr. Ritchie did not
attempt to copy it, as we were not yet enough acquainted with the
customs of the Arabs to know if it would be permitted. The tombs
and mosques, as at Hoon, were ornamented with quantities of
ostrich eggs.
The natives of Wadan are Arabs of the tribe Moajer, who chiefly
spend their time in attending their flocks at the Syrtis, and
resident shreefs, or descendants of the Prophet; the latter
forming the greater part of the population. There is a chain of
mountains, a few miles east of the town, called also Wadan, on
account of the immense number of buffaloes to be found there, and
which are of three species; viz. the Wadan, an animal of the size
of an ass, having very large horns, short reddish hide, and large
bunches of hair hanging from each shoulder, to the length of
eighteen inches or two feet: they have very large heads, and are
very fierce. The Bogra el Weish, which is a red buffalo, slow in
its motions, having large horns, and being of the size of an
ordinary cow; and the white buffalo of a lighter and more active
make, very shy and swift, and not easily procured. The calving
time of these animals is in April or May. There are also in
these mountains great quantities of ostriches, by hunting which
many of the natives subsist. All the Arabs here agree respecting
the manner in which these birds sit on their eggs, and which I
was not before aware of.
They are not left to be hatched by the warmth of the sun, but the
parent bird forms a rough nest, in which she covers from fourteen
to eighteen eggs, and regularly sits on them in the same manner
as the common fowl does on her chickens; the male occasionally
relieving the female. It is during the breeding season that the
greatest numbers are procured, the Arabs shooting the old ones
while on their nests. At all the three towns, Sockna, Hoon, and
Wadan, it is the custom to keep tame ostriches in a stable, and
in two years, to take three cuttings of their feathers. I
imagine, from what I have seen of the skins of ostriches brought
for sale, that all the fine feathers sent to Europe are from tame
birds; the wild ones being generally so ragged and torn, that not
above half a dozen good perfect ones can be found. The white
feathers are what I allude to; the black, being shorter and more
flexible, are generally good. All the camels belonging to these
people are sent to the Syrtis, to pasture; a distance of about
five days' journey. It sometimes occurs, that after a great deal
of rain has fallen, the plains beyond the Wadan mountains acquire
sufficient verdure to feed the cattle for a few weeks.
<A desert journey with a slave kaffle> April 24th. ... We did not see, any where, the least
appearance of vegetation; but observed many skeletons of animals, which had died of
fatigue on the Desert, and occasionally the grave of some human being. All these bodies
were so dried by the extreme heat of the sun, that putrefaction did not appear to have
taken place after death. In recently expired animals I could not perceive the slightest
offensive smell; and in those long dead, the skin, with the hair on it, remained unbroken
and perfect, although so brittle as to break with a slight blow. The sand-winds never cause
these carcasses to change their places, as in a short time a slight mound is formed round
them and they become stationary.
At 5.50. we passed low table-topped hills east and west of us, called El Gaaf. The desert
was named Sbir ben Afeen. At seven we encamped. The plain round us presented so
perfect a horizon, that an astronomical observation might have been taken as at sea. From
the excessive dryness of the air, our blankets and barracans emitted electric sparks, and
crackled distinctly on being rubbed. The horses' tails, also, in beating off the flies, had the
same effect. Our whole Kaffle were much fatigued. This day we had advanced south-south-west, thirty-five miles.
April 25th ... At nine we entered a wadey, called Om el Abeed (the Mother of the Slaves),
and at eleven arrived at a well of the same name, situated amongst the mountains, and
having a quantity of bushes growing about it.
We found here two large flocks of sheep and goats. on the way to Morzouk from Benioleed.
We had supposed some flocks were ahead of us, five or six sheep having been picked up by
the Kaffle, while still alive, but unable to walk, and had, therefore, been left to perish. At
twelve the camels arrived, having travelled twenty hours, or above forty-eight miles, south-southwest. The wind was south during the whole day, bringing with it such showers of
burning sand, as almost to smother us. We frequently lost our track, and were unable to
distinguish objects at the distance even of a few yards. The flatness of the country offering
no opposition to the wind, we were exposed to all its fury. The little children of the
liberated negroes walked all this day, suffering most severely, their heads being shaved, and
constantly exposed to the burning heat of the sun. One of the poor women was taken in
labour in the afternoon, and we were obliged to tie her on a camel to prevent her falling off,
and being left on the road to perish. We had arrived at this place so late at night as to be
unable to prepare any thing to eat.
<Description of the Tuareg> ... Many parties of Tuarick came with their slaves and goods,
during the last month, (July), from Kashna, Aghades, and Ghraat. They are the finest race
of men I ever saw; tall, straight, and handsome, with a certain air of independence and
pride, which is very imposing. They are generally white, that is to say, comparatively so;
the dark brown of their complexions only being occasioned by the heat of the climate.
Their arms or bodies, (where constantly covered), are as white as those of many Europeans.
Their costume is very remarkable, and they cover their faces as high as the eyes, in the
manner of women on the sea-coast. Their original motive for so doing is now forgotten;
but they say it must be right, as it was the fashion of their forefathers. This covering
extends as high as half way up the bridge of the nose, from whence it hangs down below the
chin on the breast, much in the same way (but longer) as crape or lace is hung to a lady's
half mask. This cloth is generally of blue glazed cotton; but yellow, red, white, and many
other colours are worn according to taste, or the ability of the wearer to purchase them.
The beard is kept close clipped, so as not to interfere with the covering which is tied
behind; their red caps are generally very high, but some wear yellow or green ones, fitted
close to the head: others have no caps at all but leave their hair to grow, and plait it in long
tresses. All wear turbans, which are never of any fixed colour: blue is the most common
and cheap; but gaudy hues are preferred. A large loose shirt (having the sleeves the same
size as the body), called Tobe, is the common dress; it is of cotton, generally blue, or blue
and white, and is of their own manufacture, although some wear those of Soudan, which
are considered the best that are made. The merchants generally dress very gaudily while in
the towns, wearing kaftans of bright red cloth, or very gay silk and cotton striped, which
they procure from the Tripoline traders. A leather kaftan is also much worn, of their own
manufacture, as are leather shirts of the skins of antelopes, very neatly sewed, and well prepared. Their trowsers are not made so full as those of the Moors, as they would in that case
be much encumbered in riding their maherries : they rather resemble those called Cossack
trowsers, and are made of cotton stuff, dark blue being the most common. Their sandals
are the most elegant part of their dress, being made of black leather, with scarlet thongs to
brace them to the feet. The ornamental needle-work on the inside of the sole is really
admirable. They all wear a whip, hanging from a belt passed over the left shoulder by the
right side. Their swords are straight and of great length, and they wield them with much
ease and dexterity. From the left wrist is suspended a dagger, with the hilt towards the
hand; it has a broad leather ring attached to the scabbard, and through this the hand is
passed. No Tuarick is ever seen without this appendage, and a light elegant spear,
sometimes entirely of iron, inlaid with brass; others are of wood, but are also highly
ornamented. These weapons are about six feet in length, and are thrown to a great
distance. In making war, they have three longer and heavier spears, and a strong lance,
which are fastened behind the saddle. Along gun is also generally carried; and these people
are considered sure marksmen. They are, if possible, more superstitious than the natives of
Fezzan; some of them being literally covered with charms against disorders and accidents,
which they wear round their arms, legs, necks, across the breast, and in fact wherever they
can find a place for them. Their spears and guns have also their due allowance, and in the
folds of the turbans are always hidden a number of holy writings. Some wear large silver
cases tied round the head, containing charms against the devil. Their language is the
Breber, or original African tongue, still spoken in the mountains behind Tunis, in some
parts of Morocco, and at Socka, where it is called Ertana. On a future occasion I shall give
a small vocabulary of it. They are very proud of the antiquity of their language, which
some have told me was spoken by Noah, in preference to any other. They never kiss the
hand as other Mohammedans do, not even that of the Sultan himself, but advance, and,
taking the hand, shake it, and then retire, standing erect, and looking him full in the face--a
striking contrast of manners to that of the natives of Fezzan. No people have more aversion
to washing than the Tuarick generally have; some, after having equipped themselves in a
new suit of blue, become so stained for a time as to appear of the same complexion as their
garments. Even in performing their necessary purifications, which require that a man
should wash in a particular way before his prayers, they avoid water, and make use of
sand. Many attempts were made by us to discover the reason why they kept themselves in
such a dirty state; but to all our inquiries we obtained nearly the same answers: "God
never intended that man should injure his health, if he could avoid it: water having been
given to man to drink, and cook with, it does not agree with the skin of a Tuarick, who
always falls sick after much washing." There are some, however, who do wash, and ridicule
the dirty ones; but these are comparatively few. They are Moslem, and their prayers are in
Arabic, of which language many do not understand a syllable; those who do pray (and
there are many who do not) only repeat their belief, viz. "There is no God but God, and
Mohammed is his prophet," and know very little besides of their religion. They inhabit
that immense tract of country, known in maps under the name of Sahara, or the Great
Desert, and are of numerous tribes, some of whom have no settled habitations, but wander
like the Arabs, and subsist by plunder. They are not cruel on these occasions, provided
they meet with no resistance; but should the party attacked attempt to defend themselves,
their death is certain.
The Tuarick, or more properly tribes of them, are always at war with the Soudan states,
and carry off from them incalculable numbers of slaves. They are so completely masters of
their weapons, and so very courageous, that they are much dreaded, which enables them to
traverse unmolested, and in very small bodies, countries full of armed people. Each tribe
has some peculiarity in its dress, or manner of riding and making war. The nearest
Tuarick to Fezzan are at Ghraat, which is ten days from Morzouk, and from Oubari, the
most western village in the Wadey Shiati.
... At the end of this month, a large Kaffle of Arabs, Tripolines, and Tibboo, arrived from
Bornou, bringing with them 1400 slaves of both sexes and of all ages, the greater part being
females. Several smaller parties had preceded them, many of whom also brought slaves.
We rode out to meet the great kaffle, and to see them enter the town-it was indeed a piteous
spectacle! These poor oppressed beings were, many of them, so exhausted as to be scarcely
able to walk; their legs and feet were much swelled, and by their enormous size, formed a
striking contrast with their emaciated bodies. They were all borne down with loads of fire-wood; and even poor little children, worn to skeletons by fatigue and hardships, were
obliged to bear their burthen, while many of their inhuman masters rode on camels, with
the dreaded whip suspended from their wrists, with which they, from time to time,
enforced obedience from these wretched captives. Care was taken, however, that the hair
of the females should be arranged in nice order, and that their bodies should be well oiled,
whilst the males were closely shaven, to give them a good appearance on entering the town.
Their dresses were simply the usual cotton wrappers, and even these, in many instances,
were so torn, as scarcely to cover them. We observed one girl (of what country I know not)
who had her back and shoulders burned in little sprigs, in a very curious manner, so as to
resemble figured silk; it had a very pretty appearance, and must have been done when she
was quite an infant. Some of the women carried little children on their backs, some of
whom were so small, that they must have been born on the road.
The Tibboo, who bring the slaves from Bornou, are of the tribes on the road; and some are
from Fezzan. They never trade to Soudan, on account of the distance; but prefer
exchanging their slaves for horses, which they sell to great advantage in the interior: for
though there are horses in Bornou, they are not much esteemed; but those of Tripoli are
greatly valued. The Tibboo ride on saddles, resembling in some respects our English ones;
but they are smaller, and have a high peak in front: their stirrups resemble ours, but they
do not put the whole foot in them, only the four small toes, the great one remaining out;
their shoes are an contrived for this purpose, by having a separate division for a great toe,
and are made in the same manner as childrens' mittens. Their bridles are also in our style,
being much lighter than those of the Arabs. They are more careful of their horses than of
their families, sparing no expense to fatten them; this is done by cramming them with large
balls of meal or dough, which are considered highly nourishing. A fine horse will, in the
Negro country, sell for 10 or 15 Negresses; each of which, at the Barbary ports, is worth
from 80 to 150 dollars.
All the traders speak of slaves as farmers do of cattle. Those recently brought from the
interior were fattening, in order that they might be able to go on to Tripoli, Benghazi, or
Egypt: thus a distance of 1600 or 1800 miles, is to be traversed, from the time these poor
creatures are taken from their homes, before they can be settled; whilst in the Interior they
may, perhaps, be doomed to pass through the hands of eight or ten masters, who treat
them well or ill, according to their pleasure. These devoted victims fondly hoping that each
new purchaser may be the last, find perhaps that they have again to commence a journey
equally long and dreary with the one they have just finished, under a burning sun, with
new companions, but with the same miseries.
The females are always considered as bearing fatigue much better than the males; perhaps
because their small allowance of food and water more easily suffices them. I have always
observed that the men were more miserable in their appearance, and walked with more
difficulty than the women.
... All nations south of the Waters are said <by the Muslims of Tripoli and area> to be
unbelievers, and to live in a state of nature, resembling in their appearance, manners, and
habitations, wild beasts rather than men.
The Moslems have a greater share of superstition and vices than those they call their blind
neighbours, and seldom undertake any thing without being first fortified by charms. They
are constantly fancying themselves bewitched, attribute every unpleasant occurrence to
Iblis; and are so fearful of the "Evil Eye," that they adopt many strange precautions to
avert its baneful effects.
In justice to the poor unenlightened beings whom they make their prey, I must say that I
never witnessed such innocence, tenderness, and mildness as most of them evince when
brought to Morzouk, particularly at the death of any of their companions in adversity. On
these occasions they do not, like their persecutors, scream and make an insincere wailing;
but sit silent and in tears, and often refuse their little allowance of food. Should one of the
females fall sick, the others nurse, feed, comfort, and very often give up the whole of their
scanty meal to the sufferer. I speak merely of the women, for the men are not blessed with
very kind hearts; and it would be considered by them as disgraceful to betray any soft and
tender reeling. Should a woman have an infant belonging to her, each of her companions
in turn will carry and endeavour to amuse it. The women very seldom become sullen, and
are lively without being at all boisterous or noisy; they are clean in their persons, very fond
of ornaments, tractable and easily taught; but in acquiring knowledge they unfortunately
lose much of their native simplicity.
<Articles of Commerce between Fezzan and the Interior, as well as to Egypt, Bornou, and
Waday>
THE ARTICLES OF COMMERCE CARRIED FROM FEZZAN TO SOUDAN
BORNOU, AND WADAY, ARE-
Beads. The following kinds are at present in fashion: Mjeddrah el Baida (white smallpox);
of white china, having raised spots on them. Erwandadi; transparent, oval, and dark blue.
Koon. tombali; red, transparent, having white streaks and figures, of an oval form. Khorz
el Adi; small beads of opaque glass, all colours. Menjura; large octagonal beads of red,
white, and green. The white are at present preferred: a fowl is purchased for a bead of this
kind. Khabba Jedeeda; black oval beads, having white or light blue rings on them. Guttuf
; the smallest size, of all colours mixed. Dhab el Mesquin (or poor man's gold); black china
beads, having yellow spots raised on them. Bandeaus of beads and necklaces ready made.
I have been thus particular for the information of future travellers, as the beads we took
with us were unsaleable, and the above are always to be purchased at Tripoli.
Coral. Morgian Teddoo, small coral in strings, in beads, in the rough, and in necklaces.
Needles. Four of which purchase a fine fowl.
Silk. Damask, and all light silks of a gaudy colour: if they have flowers worked on them,
they sell much better; sewing silk, or raw silk, and ribbons of various colours.
Red cloth, of a coarse kind, and brings an equally high price with the kerseymere we had
with us. Salisbury flannels would sell very well.
Red As turbans, and a few having fine borders, which are sold to the chiefs. Our
invitation shawls would be highly prized: the more red they had in them, the better.
Copper pots and kettles, tinned inside.
Brass basin. If a little ornamented, so much the better. Flat ones are preferred.
Looking-glasses. In stamped brass and other gaudy frames; and a small kind in little brass
boxes called Lamma in Tripoli, are much admired.
Swords. Very long, straight, and double edged; bought greedily by the Tuarick.
Guns and pistols. Seldom taken, as they are not easily carried in bales.
Morgoom. Which is the long striped carpet, made by the Arabs near Tripoli, and at
Mesurata on the sea-coast.
Turkey carpets or rugs, of about six or eight feet in length and three in breadth, called
Sejaada.
Kaftans, of silk- and cotton in stripes, or red cloth, as gaudy and cheap as possible: these
meet with a ready sale.
Caps, of the manufactory of Tunis, long, and having large tassels hanging from the crown.
Bornoose. Large red mantles, some ornamented with silk or gold lace.
Horses, which, if tall, will sell very readily for fifteen, or even in some places twenty
regresses. Though the purchasers take the trouble to look at their teeth, they scarcely know
a colt from an old horse. All animals of an imposing appearance, and long legs, are eagerly
purchased.
Glass amulets, of black and blue, made at Venice.
Powder, flints, and lead in bullets, sell quickly.
Muslins. For the chiefs to make shirts or turbans.
Bales of linen. Thread, and gold thread, which the natives sometimes spin, mixing it with
their cotton cloths.
Sundries. Such as files, chisels, and hammers; a few perfumes, little boxes, and toys; all of
which can be procured in Europe for a mere trifle.
Nearly the whole of these articles are brought from Tripoli or Egypt, and are very dear
even in Morzouk. We had none of these goods, which alone are objects of trade in the
interior.
In Exchange for which the Traders bring from Soudan,
Slaves. Chiefly females, the males not being worth so much money by nearly one-third, or
sometimes one-half; are the principal goods brought by the dealers.
Zebed (civet.) Obtained from the cats which are kept in cages, and are at stated periods
irritated to such a degree, that a profuse perspiration takes place, and the perfume is
secreted in some folds under the tail; which, by securing the Animal they scrape off, and
preserve in small boxes made of hide. A savage old cat will produce ten or twelve dollars'
worth in three heats. Their price is enormous, some being sold for three or four slaves.
Zeneh. A striped cotton petticoat worn as a wrapper by all the women: the patterns are
various; some are very handsome, both in the arrangement of the colours and in the
workmanship.
Cottons. Dark blue, called Turkedi, striped blue and white, red and blue, and in fact of
many patterns; amongst others, chequered like the sailors' shirts. All these cloths are
woven in webs about three or four inches in breadth; they are sewed very neatly together,
and are excessively strong.
Tobe, or large shirts, much varied in colours and prices; the best are called Samia, of blue
cotton and white silk woven in stripes. A female slave is considered a fair exchange for one
of these shirts; others are at seven or eight dollars each. White ones are also made, but not
considered equal to the blue. The names of those most commonly brought are, Massaquari,
Sharia, Shata, Shinni, Freezy, and Abiad, or white.
Aba. Of cotton: it is a large shawl or wrapper, used and worn nearly as the barracans or
abas of the Arabs and Moors. These wrappers are always striped, and generally very
handsome: they are called Melhaffi Zaberma.
Gold. In dust, and small bars or rings. This precious metal is not brought openly, owing to
the avarice of the Sultan; and the amount is very small in comparison with the commerce
in the time of the last Sultan. It is valued at about one dollar and a half the Mitgal, or
about the seventh part of an ounce.
Leather. Hides of sheep and goats, dyed and prepared extremely well, of yellow, red, or
black; they are even glazed in the same way as morocco leather. The skins of bullocks
prepared with grease (of which water buckets and sandals are generally made), and quite
pliable. Many ornamental articles in leather are also brought; amongst others the
Mokhadda, or pillows, which are beautifully made. They are mostly of red or yellow, with
figures and ornaments dyed in black or blue, and tassels hanging at the ends.
Medaas. Ornamental sandals of exquisite workmanship, for men and women.
Kelabo. These are the ox hides just mentioned, and are sold in Fezzan for five or six dollars
each.
Gerbas. Or water skins, made of goats' hides; they are considered the best in Africa, are
very large and tight, and are worth three dollars each.
El Khaaf. The blue wrappers which form part of the headdress of the Tuarick.
Ostrich skins with the feathers on.
Honey. Yellow and white, and very good.
Goor, Kolla, or Gooroo nuts. They are brought fresh inclosed in a particular leaf, which
retains its moisture for several days; if occasionally dipped in water, the nut will remain
fresh for months. The taste is an agreeable bitter; and water drank after chewing a piece of
one appears quite sweet, resembling the flavour of an artichoke. In Morzouk this luxury
sells at the rate of four nuts for a dollar. They are about the size of a walnut, and shaped
like a large bean. It is said, that in certain years when the nut has been scarce, people in
Soudan have given a slave for one of them. They are the produce of Dagomba, Ashantee,
and several countries west of Tembuctoo: I conceive they may be the Kolla nut of Park.
Men in a dry state, much of their bitterness ceases, and they resemble a dry chesnut; they
are then less valuable, and are called Kowda. These dainties are offered to visitors as coffee
is on the coast of Barbary: many people call them the negro's coffee.
Pepper. Red, of two kinds; and three or four sorts of black, one of which resembles the pod
of a vetch or tare.
Tammerat el filfil. A large pod, in shape resembling a walnut, and containing many small
seeds of a very pungent taste, equal to Cayenne pepper.
Zoogoo. A kind of cotton cloth of great strength and thickness.
Elephants' teeth. Not often brought.
Leather jars. For containing oil, butter, or grease of any description. Honey is also brought
in them: they are called Butta.
Leather bags. Capable of containing about a sack of corn; made of the hide of the black
buffalo.
Bowls, called Kaffala, highly carved and ornamented, made of gourds; others are of wood;
and wooden spoons.
Mortars, called Karroo, made of any hard wood, and used for pounding corn.
Leather, and skin ornaments, ivory armlets and finger rings, little fancy baskets, and many
other trifles, complete the list, and serve to supply the deficiency of a camel's load. Blue
parrots are brought from Noofy, and sell at astonishing prices, some as high as twenty
dollars. They are carried by the regresses, who soon teach them to speak. They are not
found east of Noofy. A sweet cake, called Aaoud el Kagh (or cough wood) made of spice
and honey, is another article of commerce. Occasionally they bring a few sheep and goats,
as presents to the Sultan, or to the families of the traders; lions' skins, and sometimes those
of tiger cats.
To Egypt the Fezzan Merchants carry
Slaves, chiefly female.
Gold, procured from the interior.
Red pepper, native produce.
Trona, or soda, which is procured in the Wadey Shiati, and is chewed with tobacco.
Ostrich feathers.
Tiger cat and lions' skins.
Majiggri, or long-tailed sheep of Soudan, which are bought in Egypt as high as thirty
dollars each.
Parrots, procured from Soudan.
Dates, which they obtain at Siwah, half-way on the road to Alexandria.
Leather of Soudan.
Dark blue Soudan cloths in pieces, &c. &c.
In return, the Egyptian traders, who are generally natives of Augela, a midway town, bring
Muslin turbans, which are only worn by great and rich people.
Silk, in stuffs, raw, and in thread.
Gold, thread and lace.
Striped stuffs of silk and cotton woven together, much worn by the merchants in the
interior.
Cashmere Shawls, which are not often brought, are generally bought up by the Morocco
traders.
Striped silk stuffs for women's under garments, and ready made up shirts.
Silk and cotton, sewed together in ribbons; also for shirts.
Cotton shirts, with coloured stripes for women.
Silk handkerchiefs for women.
Copper pots and basins, tinned inside and out.
Plates, cups, and bowls, of earthen ware.
Glasses for lamps, and brass and tin lamps.
Carpets of cotton, in coloured stripes.
Green leather, called Zengarr.
Gilt leather, called Smanto, which the women cut into small stripes, and plait with their
hair.
Spices of several kinds.
Woollen cloth of the most brilliant colours, but of the coarsest and worst quality.
Kaftans, ready made and lined, of the above cloth.
Beads of various kinds and colours.
Agates and cornelians roughly cut in the form of hearts.
Armlets of glass, of various colours.
Brass anklets, armlets, and ear-rings; blunderbusses, pistols, swords, powder, and daggers;
gilt stirrups, tents, soap of an inferior quality, musk, sugar, brown and white, in loaves,
attar of roses, and jasmin; rosewater, aloes wood and camphor for perfuming the dead,
zebed (or civet) of Mecca, and several other perfumes; silver ornaments for women; horses
occasionally; bottles, ornamented boxes, tobacco and bowls for pipes; bead headbands for
female slaves; sheet tin, and tin articles; red caps, Luban, a gum tasting much like resin,
which people chew, and gum mastic; Habsia; handsome, girls from Abyssinia, educated in
Mecca or Egypt. They are now but seldom brought, the Fezzanners not being rich enough
to purchase them as formerly.
From Bornou the Tibboo bring
Slaves, wooden bowls, kaffala, or gourd bowls; a few tobes or shirts; sheep, goats, and a
little honey. Lion's skins were once brought, but they are not now to be had, owing to the
Sultan of Bornou buying them all up for his regresses to sleep on, to prevent their bearing
children, as he has already a large family. It is implicitly believed that a woman who sleeps
on a lion's skin never can become pregnant.
From Tuat the Tuarick bring
Gold procured from Timbuctoo in dust and bars; now, however, rarely and in small
quantities.
Silk and gold belts, with cases to hang the books in.
Tinned copper pots, basins, &,c.
Light jereeds, or abas, of wool or cotton.
Horses, hair sacks, red, black, and yellow leather, ornamental bridles.
Korans, and other religious books, elegantly written, and often illuminated with letters of
gold or rich colours.
Kohol. The black powder used for the eyelids.
Aaoud el Kagh. A sweetmeat made of honey.
Atria. A perfumed powder of cloves, wild lavender, and other sweet herbs, with which the
Fezzan women powder their hair: the smell is by no means unpleasant.
Trifles and toys are also brought in great quantities.
<People of Soudan> ... In Soudan the people ride on Maherries.
Half-way between Nooffy and Ashantee is a country of great extent, called Gonja. It is said
that the people have the power of taming the elephants, which there, as in Soudan, are
found in great numbers. This country is traversed by the traders in their way to the Gold
Coast.
The mountains of Kong, near Dagomba, are said actually to exist, but I know not whether
under the same name. Beyond Dagomba the country is low and marshy, and at certain
seasons is overflowed. All the people, who are not Moslems, in Soudan, Bornou, or indeed
over the greater part of the interior, are called Kerdi, which means Kaffir, or "unbeliever,"
and is considered as a term of reproach; but no distinct tribe called by that name exists.
The women of the whole of the interior have no hand-mills to grind their corn, but pound it
in large wooden mortars, enlivening their labour by songs. The want of salt is much felt.
The Tuarick of Aghades and Asben, of the tribes of Kelliwe and Atesin, trade to great
advantage in that article, which they bring from the salt lakes of Agram (Doomboo of the
maps), on the Desert of Bilma, the position of which I shall mention when speaking of the
country of the Tibboo.
The women of Soudan are much famed for their singing. They accompany themselves on a
little instrument made of a gourd, with a skin stretched over it like a drum, having a handle
and one string, which is played by a bow made with horse-hair. This instrument is called
Erbab. Their other instruments are drums, bagpipes, rude cymbals, and a long gourd
called Zantoo, which has a hole at each end, and is beaten against the calf of the leg, and
stopped quickly by the hand.
The women of Bornou have not so many attractions as those of Soudan. They are neither
so handsome, well formed, clean, nor good-tempered; and, in consequence, the slaves from
the latter country bring much higher prices. The costume of the women of both these
places is very remarkable, particularly in the manner of dressing their hair; those of
Soudan stretching it over a high pad raised like a helmet, and the Bornou girls plaiting it in
some instances close to the head, and in others letting it hang down like little bobbins.
They wear a large shirt of cotton, or striped silk, and a wrapper in the form of a petticoat,
called Zeneh. Their silver ear-rings, bracelets, and anklets, form a very pretty contrast
with their jetty skins. . In their own countries they wear no shirts, but a long wrapper tied
over the breasts and under the arms.
Ghadams. I have frequently had occasion to speak of this Place, which is situated on the
Desert, fifteen days south-west of Tripoli. It is there that merchants going to Tembuctoo or
Tuat assemble before starting for their long journey. This place was once independent, but
a few years since was taken by the son of the Bashaw of Tripoli, and has ever since
remained tributary. The natives are constantly trading to Tembuctoo, and there are few of
them who do not speak the language of that country, and of the Tuarick also. It is a
singular fact, that two tribes live in Ghadams without having any communication with
each other. From a person who had often traded there I obtained the following account ...
A large circular wall is divided in the middle by another broad one, which separates the
two towns. It has a gate through the centre, which is shut during any disturbance. The
inhabitants of both towns were always at war with each other, and have even now
occasionally very dangerous quarrels. Outside the towns are the gardens and date groves.
The streets are all covered in, and are so dark in consequence, that at sunset a person is
unable to find his way without a lamp. The houses are good, formed of mud, and of one
story. The natives are Arabs. Those who reside in the two towns seldom see, and are as
perfect strangers to each other, as if living many miles apart. No intermarriages or
civilities exist between them, and a chance visitor from one town seldom escapes insult from
the people of the other. In Benewazeed is a spring sufficiently large to supply both these
places, as well as their gardens. There are five channels from it, by which the water is
distributed in equal shares, at a certain allowance, in proportion to the houses or gardens
to be watered. When the allowance for one Place is poured into its proper channel, it is
then dammed up, and another is supplied. There are people regularly appointed from each
town to attend the distribution. The water is said to be rather warm and quite fresh, and
runs in a channel communicating with the Mosque, through which it passes. There are
many small rooms, into which those who wish to bathe in performing their ablutions may
retire. The mouadden, or minaret of this Mosque is very high, and may be seen at the
distance of a day's journey. Each town has a Sheikh, and the two are under the command
of a Kaid appointed by the Bashaw. There are no manufactories, but it is well supplied by
the constant concourse of traders who pass through it. Many ostriches are caught in the
neighbouring desert, and the feathers form an extensive article of commerce with Tripoli.
In the southern half of the walls is a tribe of Arabs living by themselves, called Oulad
Belail. From Ghadams to Iddri, in the Wadey Shirghi of Fezzan, is eight days; and to
Ghraat, twenty days short journeys, or fifteen summer days.
September.-All the people were this month busily employed in getting in their soft dates,
which were in great plenty, and became their chief support. There are two harvests of this
fruit., one while the dates are soft, the other the latter end of October and beginning of
November, when they are dried and candied.
<At the town of Morzouk> ... The ablest person of our sick party always went to the
gardens to shoot pigeons, which had been numerous, but which now had emigrated to the
countries to the southward. These visits to the date groves gave us many opportunities of
observing the manner of cultivating the grain and esculents. The wells are generally about
20 or 30 feet in depth, and more resemble large deep ponds than what we call wells. The
water lies on a stratum of grayish clay, is salt, and generally smells very badly: it is raised
by means of sheers made of date trees, lashed together, and placed slopingly over the centre
of the pit. One or two asses, according to the number of buckets used, are attached by a
light harness and run down a steep bank, which renders their work less laborious. The
men who attend also draw with them, and quicken their pace by pricking them on the
flanks, with their small reaping hooks, in so rude a manner, that many of the poor animals
are quite scarified. The water runs into small channels, which are formed round the
garden, while the women and children, with scoops, distribute it as it may be wanted.
In some places where it is intended to allow the ground to drink, the embankments are
opened, and the garden is completely flooded ; thus the labour is very great, and absolutely
necessary, as rain is unknown, and no dews ever fall. The people who attend the gardens,
live in little huts constructed of palm branches, and about six feet in height. The dates,
when quite dry, are buried in square holes, dug in the sand, and are afterwards covered
over with it. Corn is made into little sheaves, and laid out until wanted: it is then beaten
with long date-sticks, and asses are made to run over it. The ground on which these
operations take place is a circle firmly clayed and quite clean : much sand is, however,
unavoidably mixed with their corn. Pomegranate and fig-trees form an agreeable shade
near some of the wells ; they are so planted, as to stand in the centre of the water channels.
The gardens ane, as I have before stated, very small; yet it sometimes happens, that one
alone produces all the vegetables and fruits peculiar to the country.
Near our house was the principal Mosque, to which the Sultan and ourselves went every
Friday, as a matter of course; and every other day, we found it necessary to appear there
once or twice. It is a low building, having a shed projecting over the door, which, being
raised on a platform, is entered by a few steps. A small turret, intended to be square and
perpendicular, is erected for the Mouadden to call the people to prayers. One of the great
lounges is on the seats in front of the Mosque; and every morning and evening, they are full
of idle people, who converse on the state of the markets, and on their own private affairs;
or, in a fearful whisper, canvass the Sultan's conduct.
The men of Morzouk, of the better sort, dress nearly like the people of Tripoli ; the lower
orders wear a large shirt of white or blue cotton with long loose sleeves, trowsers of the
same, and sandals of camels' hide : the shirts being long, many wear no other covering.
When leaving their houses, and walking to the market or gardens, a Jereed or Aba is
thrown round them, and a red cap, or a neatly quilted white cotton one, completes the
dress: on Fridays they perhaps add a turban, and appear in yellow slippers. In the
gardens, men and women wear large broad-brimmed straw hats to defend their eyes from
the sun, and sandals made from the leaves and fibres of the palm-tree. Very young
children go entirely naked; those who are older have a shirt: many are quite bare-headed,
and in that state exposed all day to the sun and flies. The men have but little beard, which
they keep closely clipped. The dress of the women here differs materially from that of the
Moorish females, and their appearance and smell are far from being agreeable: they plait
their hair in thick bobbins, which hang over their foreheads, nearly as low down as the
eyebrows, and are there joined at the bottom, as far round to each side as the temples.
The hair is so profusely oiled, that it drops down over the face and clothes; this is dried up
by sprinkling it with plenty of a preparation made of a plant resembling wild lavender,
cloves, and one or two more species, pounded into powder and called Atria: it forms a
brown, dirty looking paste, and, combined with perspiration and the flying sand, becomes
in a few days far from savoury in appearance or odour. The back hair is less disgusting, as
it is plaited into a long tress on each side, and is brought to hang over the shoulders; from
these tresses, ornaments of silver or coral are suspended. Black wool is frequently worked
in with these back locks, to make them appear longer. In the centre of the forehead, an
ornament of coral or beads is placed, hanging down to the depth of an inch or two. A
woollen handkerchief is fastened on the back of the head; it falls over behind, and is tied by
a leather strap under the chin. Each ear is perforated for as many rings as the woman
possesses, some wear even six on one side; the largest, which is about five inches in
diameter, hanging lowest, supported by a string from the head. Round the neck, a tight
flat collar of beads, arranged in fancy patterns, is worn with coral necklaces, and sometimes
a broad gold plate immediately in front. A large blue shirt is generally worn, the collar and
breast ornamented with needle-work: the women also wear white shirts, and striped silk
ones called Shami, which are brought from Egypt;-a Jereed and red slippers complete their
dress.
They generally have those wrappers of a darker colour than those of the men. Some of the
better class of women wear trowsers, not fuller in the leg than those worn in Europe; they
are very prettily embroidered with silk at the bottom of the leg, and form a handsome
contrast to the black skin of the wearer. Cornelians or Agates, roughly shaped in the form
of hearts, are much worn as necklaces, and they have a variety of rings for the thumbs and
fingers. A band of silk cord hanging round the body from one shoulder is generally filled
with pendent leather or cloth bags containing charms. Round the wrists and above the
elbows, Armlets of silver, gold, glass, horn, or ivory, are worn according to the ability of the
wearer to purchase them; and on the ankles they have silver, brass, copper, or iron
shackles. I have seen a pair of silver ones, which weighed 108 ounces; but these ponderous
ornaments produce a callous lump on the leg, and entirely deform the ankle. The poorest
people have only the Jereed and sandals. Both men and women have a singular custom of
stuffing their nostrils with a twisted leaf of onions or clover, which has a very disgusting
appearance. The men, not using oil, are much cleaner than the women; but the whole race
of them, high and low, apparently clean or otherwise, are abominably lousy; and they make
no secret of it. I have frequently observed the Sultan, when detecting an interloper,
moisten his thumb to prevent its escape, and then demolish it with great composure and
dignity. Some of the neighbours whom we visited, whilst reposing on their carpets, would
send for a slave to hunt for these tormentors on their shirts; and it is a great
recommendation to a female slave, on sale, to say that she is well skilled in this art, and in
that of shampooing.
... Kaid Saad, who was a great cook, undertook to dress for us a whole sheep, which was to
last us the remaining part of our journey to Gatrone. As this was one of the Arab methods
of preparing meat for a journey, I shall here describe it. The sheep is deprived of all its fat,
and cut into small pieces ; the fat is melted in a large pot, and the meat, with garlic, onions,
and red pepper, is then stewed in it without any water, and with a lid on the pot, for three
or four hours, when it is taken out, and having been cooled, is put into a goat skin. The
grease is kept for mixing with cusscussou, bazeen, and other dishes; and meat thus
prepared will remain perfectly fresh for two or three weeks. He made us a very good mess
of sheep skin, which is sliced and stewed with onions.
... As this was the evening of the feast of Milood, Mohammed's birth-day, every thing
promised a gay meeting, and the young Tibboo girls were adorned for the occasion in all
their finery. These females are light and elegant in form, and their graceful costume, quite
different from that of the Fezzanners, is well put on. They have aquiline noses, fine teeth,
and lips formed like those of Europeans; their eyes are expressive, and their colour is of the
brightest black: there is something in their walk, and erect manner of carrying themselves,
which is very striking. Their feet and ankles are delicately formed, and are not loaded
with a mass of brass or iron, but have merely a light anklet of polished silver or copper,
sufficient to show their jetty skin to more advantage; they wear also neat red slippers.
The costume for the head is almost universally the same, the hair being plaited on each
side, in such a manner as to hang down on the cheeks like a fan, or rather in the form of a
large dog's ear. A piece of leather is fastened from the front to the back of the head, in the
centre, and through this are passed twenty or thirty silver rings, each linked within the
other, ending behind in a flat silver plate, which is suspended from a few tresses of hair;
and in front, by a silver ornament composed of several rings <of graduated sizes, lying flat
within each other>.
On each side of the head, they wear an ornament of gold and rough cut agate, and round it,
above the ears, a bandeau of coral, cowrie shells, or agates; several light chains of silver,
having round bells at the end of them, are attached to the hair, and when dancing, produce
a pleasing sound. Their necks are loaded with gaudy necklaces, and one-half of their well-formed bosoms is shown by the arrangement of their drapery: their arms are bare to the
shoulders, having above the elbow neat silver rings of the thickness of a goosequill, and on
the wrists one or two broader and flatter. In the ear they wear three or four silver rings of
various sizes, the largest in circumference hanging the lowest. Their most singular
ornament is a piece of red coral, through a hole in the right nostril, which really does not
look unbecoming. The dress is a large shawl of blue, or blue and white cotton, of which
they have a variety of patterns, fastened over the shoulders and across the bosom, and
hanging in graceful folds, so as to show the back, right breast, and right arm bare. These
dresses are very short, and exhibit the leg to the calf; but with all this display, their general
appearance offered nothing offensive or immodest.
... The Tibboo women do not, like the Arabs, cover their faces; they retain their youthful
appearance longer than the latter, are much more cleanly, better housewives, and
particularly careful of their children, of whom they have a multitude. Their chief
occupation seems to be basket-making; and they also form drinking bowls out of palm
leaves, which they ornament with stripes of coloured leather, and execute with much taste
and neatness. All the Fezzanners who come here to trade return loaded with these baskets,
as presents for their families.
Having said so much of the agreeable qualities of the Tibboo, I feel it but candid to
acknowledge their immoderate fondness for tobacco, with a great portion of which almost
every mouth is crammed. Their teeth are, nevertheless, quite white, owing to the custom
which is peculiar to the Mohamedans of cleaning them after eating, with a piece of stick.
The Tibboo men are slender and active in their form, and have intelligent countenances;
their agility is proverbial; and they are frequently, by way of distinction, called "the Birds".
The tribes which inhabit the southern parts of Fezzan are, from circumstances, quiet and
civilized; but those of the interior live chiefly by plunder, are constantly making inroads on
their neighbours, and are not famed for fidelity one to another. They are not disposed to
cruelty, but are most impudent thieves; and their well known character secures them the
almost exclusive commerce of Waday and Baghermee, no strangers, at least very few,
choosing to risk a passage through their country. They are chiefly Kaffirs, and live in a
state of nature, being clad with the skins of beasts, and inhabiting holes in rocks, or
wretched grass huts. Their camels or maherries enable them to perform extraordinary
journeys, from which circumstance they are constantly shifting their abode.
... Of the Tibboo slaves who are brought to Fezzan, the females meet with the readiest
market, on account of their beauty: the males are generally too light for hard work, and are
not brought in any considerable number.
... <Notices of the interior> Battali, which is laid down as a river, was the bed of an
immense stream, now dried up entirely. <My informer> had himself seen in it large
skeletons of fish and animals, shells, and trunks of trees, as in Bahr el Ghazal, from which it
is north-west 5 days, and to which, perhaps, it was once attached. It still retains its name
Balir or river. He said, that from Gatrone to Wara there was not a river, or even a rivulet
of any importance, except in the rainy season, when the torrents form themselves
temporary beds in the Wadeys.
... The Tibboo have a particular breed of sheep and goats here, of the same race as those of
Bornou and Soudan. The tails of the sheep are in some so long as to touch the ground, and
are very taper. These animals are distinguished from the other species, by being called
Majiggri; they are hairy, and generally of a dark colour. The goats are elegant little
creatures, and have hair as sleek and shining as that of a horse. They are plentiful, and
tolerably cheap.
... a well outside the town, where we watered our horses. Near this well are some holes for
making tar, according to the manner of the Tibboo, which is thus : a pot is buried deep in
the ground with the mouth upwards, which is covered by a piece of another pot with a hole
bored in it; a large jar is then filled with bones and date stones, and its mouth is filled with
a handful of the fibres of the palm. This is inverted on the perforated piece, and round it a
strong fire of wood and camels' dung is burnt, until the pit is full of red hot ashes. The tar
then filters into the lower pot, which is dug up when the upper one cools: it is immediately
fit for use. Gerbas (or water-skins) are rubbed with this composition, which resembles coal
tar in smell and appearance; and it is applied to the sores of camels.
... In the course of our cooking I observed that a date plastered over a hole in a leaky pot
renders it quite tight for one boiling, and as dates are more easily procured than tinkers on
a journey, this hint may be worth noticing by those who may hereafter travel in this
country.
... Many of the <slave> children were carried in leather bags, which the Tibboo make use of
to keep their corn in; and in one instance I saw a nest of children on one side of a camel,
and its young one in a bag, hanging on the other. The Arabs brought many asses and
sheep from Borgoo: the former are very large and fine, and arrived in high condition,
whereas the horses and camels were skeletons. I here had an opportunity of seeing the
manner of chaining the prisoners. Five Wajunga men, fierce, well made, handsome people,
about 25 years of age, were linked together. The right hand is fastened to the neck, round
which is an iron collar, having two rings in the back; through this the heavy chain is passed
and locked at each end on the unhappy slaves. The owner sleeps with this chain tied to his
wrist, when in fear of their escaping. I was informed by their masters, that these men had
been so confined during three months, "because they were fierce fellows, and had actually
resisted their captors; but above all, they had been guilty of endeavouring to make their
escape when taken." Their cowardly owners dreaded them even in Fezzan. These were the
only strong young men in the Kaffle; almost all the other males being little boys, or infirm
old men.
The Tibboo of Borgoo are represented as a timid race, in such dread of a gun or horse, that
the bare sight of an Arab, and particularly a mounted one, is sufficient to put a number of
them to flight. They run with great swiftness, and when endeavouring to escape, use many
successful and ingenious feints. For instance; if pursued on rocky ground, they will kneel
suddenly in such a manner, as to resemble a rock or stone, the mountains in their own
country being black like themselves; if where wood is lying, they embrace the trunk of a
tree: if on sandy ground, they stand on an eminence, until their pursuer is in the hollow
near them, they then run to the next hollow, and change their direction or even bury
themselves before he gets to the rising ground. They show equal skill in eluding the
vigilance of their keepers when caught. Mukni has often told me stories of their cunning,
with evident astonishment and anger, that these poor wretches should dare to use their wits
to such advantage. One of his remarks was, "if you catch one, and do not immediately
bind him, when you turn away from him, he will run off."
The country from whence these poor victims come produces sufficient dates to furnish the
whole army, and the conquerors brought away enough to supply their slaves and animals.
There are in this country some singular insulated rocks, which are almost inaccessible, and
which stand on plains of sand. On these many of the Tibboo live, and by means of large
stones and arrows are able to keep out any people, who, like themselves, are without
muskets. The Sultan's army, in a former Ghrazzie, stormed some of these fastnesses; and
though they were superior in number and arms, and the Tibboo naturally timid, they met
with very severe loss.
The plan adopted by the Arabs in taking these people is described in the following
manner.-They rest for the night, two or three hours ride from the village intended to be
attacked; and after midnight, leaving their tents and camels, with a small guard, they
advance, so as to arrive by daylight; they then surround the place, and, closing in, generally
succeed in taking all the inhabitants. As those who elude the first range have also to pass
several bodies Placed on the look-out, and armed with guns, their chance of escape is
almost impossible. On a rising ground, at a convenient distance is placed a standard,
round which are stationed men prepared to receive and bind the captives, as they are
brought out by those who enter the town: when bound, the pillagers return for fresh
plunder. In the course of one morning, a thousand or fifteen hundred slaves have
sometimes been procured in this manner, by two or three hundred men only. When the
inhabitants are all secured, the camels, flocks, and provisions, come into requisition; and
these dreaded Arabs march on and conquer other defenceless hordes, in the same manner.
The Tibboo of Borgoo are of a lighter complexion than other negroes, and are handsome
people. The females braid their hair, which is not very woolly, in long plaits ...
January 17th. Therm. 6'.-I set out as I had proposed, with the Mamlukes and a large body
of Fezzanners, to meet their friends; for which, on joining Aleiwa's people, I received many
thanks and compliments: having only slept one night at my own house, I was not expected
to leave it again so quickly. I here found my little patient, whom I mentioned before, quite
recovered, and able, by his master's instruction, to thank me in a few words of Arabic.
This little fellow's patience, during illness, had so won on his master, a shoemaker of
Morzouk, that he had adopted him; and intended, instead of selling, to bring him up to his
own trade, in which, if the boy succeeds, he is to make me a pair of boots on my return.
We spent this afternoon in singing and eating, and every one assumed a new appearance:
instead of the dirty ragged wretches whom I had last seen, they were transformed into a
gay multitude, dressed in silks, scarlet, and embroidery; their friends collecting for them
such finery as would enable them to enter the capital with becoming dignity. Many of the
Arabs smelt most odoriferously of attar of roses, and affected to look as if they had been
accustomed to it all their lives.
The whole procession would have been very amusing, on the morning of the 18th, but for
the multitude of poor dejected captives; -their swelled and sore feet, and emaciated bodies,
formed such a sad contrast to the finery and ostentation of the conquerors, that it not only
completely checked all inclination to laugh, but gave rise to the most painful feelings. Six
flags preceded the army with a large band of musicians, who formed a melodious concert,
each disdaining time or tune, and playing such airs as their own taste dictated. On
approaching Morzouk, the dancing women and bagpipers came out, and added to the din;
and the Arabs, dividing as usual into two bodies, skirmished with very good effect. At noon
we entered the town, and I rode ahead of the Sultan's son, to observe what would be his
father's reception of him. I found Mukni sitting in the greatest agitation, pale, and alone in
the Mezlis, or Court of his Castle, and scarcely able to welcome me. The crowd assembling,
a lane was formed from the place where Aleiwa was to alight, to the great chair in which
the Sultan sat. The boy dismounted, and, supported by his younger brother, ran and
threw himself on his knees to kiss his father's hand. A general silence prevailed, when the
father, overcome by his feelings, reclined on the son's neck, and wept aloud. At that
moment I felt that I could have forgiven him all his unkindness to Mr. Ritchie and myself,
and the numerous murders he had committed; had I not recollected that this favourite boy
was returning with many poor children, whose existence was not less dear to their own
parents than his was to Mukni. When the Sultan had become a little composed, and had
re-assumed his look of dignity, a splendid Bornouse of cloth of gold was brought, and
Aleiwa being stripped of that which he then wore, by some of the principal people, the new
one was thrown over him, for which he knelt and kissed his father's hand. This, I find, is
the customary present in all the Barbary states to generals returning victorious. The
ceremony over, all the Arabs commenced kissing hands, and the Sultan then, having
vouchsafed a smile on the crowd, entered the Castle, leaning on the shoulders of his two
sons.
January 19th.-All this day the Sultan was sitting outside the Castle gate, surrounded by
Sheikh Barood and the Arabs, and buying of them, slaves and camels.
The square near the Castle presented quite a novel appearance, being filled with above
1000 Maherries. The town was all alive, and formed a very amusing spectacle. Merchants
from neighbouring countries, Tibboo, Tuarick, Arabs, and camels, were all in motion at
once, while the poor Negroes, who occasioned the assemblage of so many strangers, sat
naked and shivering in the sun, and were oiled all over to better their appearance. Some
were paraded for sale, whilst others went about with broken pots to collect the blood of the
numerous camels, which people were slaughtering, and which, on being baked over a fire,
they eagerly swallowed. Such skeletons as were seen amongst them might really have
moved the pity even of their owners. Slaves were selling as low as ever, and the market was
full: a fine girl of thirteen years of age was worth about thirty-five dollars; a boy of the
same age about fifteen or twenty; occasionally the price was greater for the females, if
particularly handsome; but boys seldom rose higher than the sum I have mentioned.
None but the Bedouins appear to approve of these Ghrazzies; their wandering manner of
life, and total want of every social feeling, their having no lands to cultivate, or houses to
take care of, may account for it. Those who have possessions are aware that these
predatory excursions are the ruin of the country and of trade; but their fear of Mukni is
even greater than their love of home, and they therefore must engage, however unwillingly,
in this service. Every man who attends the Ghrazzies is obliged to furnish himself with
arms and provisions, and he is at liberty to make what plunder or captives he can, which,
with the exception of one-fourth, is his own private property. A general attack, in which all
are engaged, allows of no man appropriating to himself the slaves he takes, as all are
carried to the standard, and thus divided; the Sultan has one-fourth, every footman is
entitled to one slave, and every horseman to two. Should the number of captives exceed
that of the captors, a second sharing is made after each man has received his first portion;
but should the number of slaves not amount to that of the captors, they are divided, one
between two or three, in proportion. Two little children are considered as equal to a young
boy, and two boys of about nine or ten years of age, or one girl of the same age, make a
share.
About this time I frequently visited the slave-markets, which are conducted with the same
degree of indifference to the feelings of the captives as at Tripoli. There are many
auctioneers, as well for slaves, as for other articles of trade; each runs from side to side of
the street, crying in a shrill voice the price last bidden, and standing on tiptoes: should he
be selling a slave, the poor creature follows him at a trot, like a dog, to the different groups
of merchants who are sitting on the sand.
SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE-TRADE
In Morzouk about a tenth part of the population are slaves, though many have been
brought away from their countries so young as hardly to be considered in that light. With
respect to the household slaves, little or no difference is to be perceived between them and
freemen, and they are often entrusted with the affairs of their master. These domestic
slaves are rarely sold, and on the death of any of the family to which they belong, one or
more of them receive their liberty, when, being accustomed to the country, and not having
any recollection of their own, they marry, settle, and are consequently considered as
naturalized. All slavery is for an unlimited time, unless when a religious feeling of the
master induces him to set a bondsman free on any great festival, on the occasion of a death,
or, which not unfrequently happens, from a wish to show his approval of the slave's
services.
It was, when the people were more opulent, the custom to liberate a male or female on the
feast of Bairam, after the fast of Rhamadan. This practice is not entirely obsolete, but
nearly so. The Slaves are procured from the inland traders, or on those lawless expeditions
I have already mentioned.
Respecting the offspring of slaves, it may not be uninteresting to observe the regulations
existing in Fezzan, which are, as far as I can collect, the same as in all Moslem countries.
A Khadem, or negress, bearing a child by her master, cannot afterwards be sold, but must
be maintained for the remainder of her life by him, or any person to whom he may marry
her ; and her child is free, and equally entitled to support.
A negress having a child by any man but her master (even though the parties should be
married), is the mother of a slave, she herself not being free.
Should the female slave of one man be with child by the male slave of another, the infant so
born becomes the property of the master of the female, and can, as well as its mother, be
sold.
A child, the offspring of a free woman by a slave, partakes of its mother's state, and is free.
It not unfrequently happens that masters allow family slaves to marry without liberating
them; but their children are slaves, and can be sold, although it is not considered
honourable so to dispose of them. These children, and, indeed, all those born in the
country, are called Shushan.
<Travelling with a large caravan from Morzouk to Tripoli> ... My Kaffle consisted of
Belford and myself, and eight loaded camels, four Arabs, our two Maherries, two sheep,
and my horse. Lizari's was composed of sixteen Khadems, or females, and three male
slaves, his own Negress, four loaded camels, a Maherry, which he rode, and two Arabs. We
were all in high spirits, our little party rejoicing at the idea of returning home, and Lizari
at having escaped the malice of Mukni. Our friends remained with us all night, and we
arranged together many plans of future meeting.
February 10th. Thermometer 0'.-At 8.15. our kind friends took leave of us, Yussuf and old
Hadge Mahmoud sobbing loudly and Mohammed looking very gloomy. Poor little Barea,
the boy whom Yussuf had lent us for so long a period, appeared quite inconsolable. I
wished to have brought him away., but, to my great regret, his master would not sell him to
me, though I offered my horse in exchange for him. I really felt much concern at parting
from these kind-hearted people, who had, to the best of their abilities, often befriended us,
and to whom we owed so many and weighty obligations. The day was fine, our camels
good, and we set out at a brisk pace. The Shreef Sadig, who had been encamped at a little
distance from us, now became our messmate. His Kaffle consisted of four girls, three men,
four camels, and three Arabs. Lizari and myself joined our stock, which Rahmata his
Negress, who was an excellent cook, made into a nice mess for us every night.
... Our road lay over a desert, without the least sign of a shrub, or any living creature. A
strong cold east wind blew with great force, as it met with no impediment,. and quickly
chopped our lips and skin. The Negroes wore their travelling dresses, which being new and
clean, looked very neat. The girls have green or yellow caps, with a large flap on each side;
shirts of blue or white cotton, a petticoat or wrapper of the same, and a good warm jeread
or barracan. It is to be observed, that masters do not at all times take equal care of their
slaves; but that fearing the bad effects of cold weather, the merchants are in winter more
attentive to their comfort than at any other season; and this for their own advantage, since
it prevents the Negresses from becoming thin and consumptive (which want of clothing
would otherwise subject them to be), and makes them bring a better price to their owners.
The males are not so carefully attended to, having generally only a long shirt and barracan.
Both sexes have sandals of camel's hide; the girls walk by themselves, and the men follow
the camels. At one o'clock they are all watered like cattle, out of large bowls, placed on the
ground, from which they kneel and drink. Children are thrown with the baggage on the
camels, if unable to walk; but if five or six years of age, the poor little creatures are obliged
to trot on all day, even should no stop be made for fourteen or fifteen hours, as I have
sometimes witnessed. We passed a Kaffle of about twenty camels from Tripoli, with a
chowse of the Bashaw, loaded with corn for Morzouk; they informed us that the Bashaw
had sent an army against Augela, and that the plague had ceased at Tunis and Jerba. At
four we turned from the road to go to a well, Ghroodwa being considered too long a
journey for the slaves: we had travelled until that time north 40' east nineteen miles. At
7.30. we arrived at Neshoua (a Wadey running east-north-east), having cleared north by
west seven miles. A well of good water was here, and we lay down amongst the palm
bushes. In unloading the camels, Belford's Maherry took fright, and running on to the
desert, his saddle fell off and the beast lamed himself sadly by striking his toe against it:
some Arabs from the neighbourhood seeing us cooking, came and supped with us. The
mess of the slaves is provided before that of their masters; it consists of Bazeen, of which
each one has a portion about as large as the double fist; and a bowl is filled with grease and
pepper, into which they occasionally dip their paste. The daily allowance of food is a quart
of dates in the morning, and half a pint of flour made into Bazeen at night. Some masters
never allow their slaves to drink after a meal, unless at a watering place. When the meal is
finished, they all lie down, the females in one line, the males in another, and are covered
over with sacking until morning.
February 12th. Thermometer 30' below 0'. Water frozen, and the poor Negroes in great
distress from the cold. At 8.00. loaded and proceeded along the edge of the Wadey. Belford
walked for a time, and his camel appeared much swelled about the foot. Course north 75'
east; Wadey about one mile in breadth, bounded on each side by the Desert. At one P. M.
we stopped at Ghroodwa, having made twelve miles. Here is a fine Mosque and a tomb
(which is kept constantly white-washed) over the grave of the third brother of Sidi Besheer,
the Maraboot of whom I have before spoken. I bought a fine sheep for a dollar and a half.
February 12th. At eight proceeded along the Wadey; at 9.30. arrived at the end of it, and
found a well called Bir el Whishki, or well of the palm bushes. We were joined here b a
chowse of the Bashaw of Tripoli, who had just come from thence with thirty camels' load of
grain; he said it was reported that the English Consul was coming to meet me at Benioleed.
On leaving the well we entered again on a stony desert and at 6.15. descended a rugged
pass called Tan6ia, to a plain hemmed in on every side by conical-shaped hills. At 6. 40. we
stopped for the night, having travelled north 33' east twenty-six miles. A large Kaffle of
natives of the Wadey Shiati passed us on their way to Morzouk, with grain, and to
compliment the Sultan on his son's return. We had many Arab games while sitting with
the camel-men round our fires; and I now began to be well acquainted with these people,
having occasionally been under the necessity of honouring one or two of them with a box
on the ear. We were all very merry, and one of my people, Ibrahim el Fetaima, an Arab of
Hoon, told us some very amusing stories.
Sunday, 13th of February. Thermometer 3'. Proceeded at 7.45. along the plain. At nine
the hills opened on to a broad flat plain, bounded at about ten miles to the eastward by
bills, which were a continuation of those we had passed. At 1.40. arrived at Sebha, having
travelled north 33' east fifteen miles. Strong south wind blowing. We found under the
walls where we encamped two Kaffles who were awaiting our arrival; one belonging to
Hadge Mohammed el Turke, who had twenty-three Negresses and five men slaves; the
other belonging to an old lame Turk called Baba Hassein, and consisting of twenty-one
females and seven males. they had left Morzouk two days before us. In the evening all the
village assembled outside the walls, to carry a bride in procession to her husband's house.
A camel was ornamented with a frame-work, covered over with carpets, shawls, and ostrich
feathers; and the bride placed within it on his back. The camel was led by a relation of the
bride, preceded by dancing people, music, mounted and dismounted Arabs, who shouted
and fired, running backwards and forwards in front of the procession. The bridegroom
walked before them, with a fan in his hand, and his fingers dyed with henna, loaded with
tawdry clothes, and looking very solemn. The bride was carried round the town and
gardens, and in the end conducted to her husband's house. The village all night resounded
with songs, and the shrill voices of the women; and we had several bowls of provisions sent
out to us. We found the flies here very tormenting.
... The people in the Wadeys are blacks and mulattoes as in Morzouk, and Arabs live
amongst them. The villages contain from thirty to two hundred houses; many, however,
are composed of palm huts. The people are very poor, but in the time of the Waled
Suleman, who resided much amongst them, they were opulent. In some of the pools of
stagnant water in the Wadey Shaiti are found small worms, of about the size of a grain of
rice; these are collected in great quantities, and pounded with a little salt in a mortar, until
they form a black paste, which is made into balls of about the size of the double fist, and
then suffered to dry in the sun. These worms, which are called Dood, form one of the very
few luxuries of Fezzan, as the poor people, when they have a mess of flour, mix some of
them with the sauce, to their Aseeda. They resemble very bad caviar in taste, and the smell
is extremely offensive; but habit and necessity overcome all prejudices in this country, and
I soon became very partial to them. Sand is an unavoidable ingredient in this paste, and
the natives consider it as more wholesome in consequence. One or two families gain a good
subsistence by preparing these worms for the market of Morzouk, and the neighbouring
towns.
Monday, Feb. 14th. Therm. 3'.-Another Kaffle joined us from Morzouk, belonging to a
native of Tripoli named Khalifa: those I mentioned before, set out this day for Temanhint.
Belford's Maherry was here so lame, that I had him fired all round the foot by Ibrahim,
who was now become very useful to us. The manner of firing camels is by a very thin red
hot iron, which is curved so as to be easily turned round the foot : they have these irons of
different lengths and sizes, for the particular part to be burned. I hired another camel for
Belford to ride on, at the rate of two dollars, from hence to Sockna, agreeing that it should
carry two skins of water on passing the Soudah.
As I had nothing better to occupy me, I mounted my own Maherry, with a Tuarick Rahela,
or saddle, and practised riding him according to their manner, which is very difficult, and
not used in Fezzain. I fortunately succeeded much beyond my expectation. ...
Tuesday, 15th Feb. ... In the evening we had occasion to buy straw for the camels, in a way
I had never before seen, of the people who came out from the town to trade with us. Shreef
Sadig soon instructed me in this new mode of barter. The person who has to sell mentions
what he wishes in exchange for certain commodities, whether oil, liquid butter, or shahm,
which is a kind of salted fat much resembling bad tallow in taste and smell. If liquids, he
pours water into a pot in proportion to the quantity of oil or butter he requires; if solids, he
brings a stone of the size of the shahm, or other article demanded. The buyer pours out
water, or sends for smaller stones, until he thinks a fair equivalent is offered. The
quantities then agreed for are made up to the size of the stone, or the depth of the water.
Tuesday, February 22nd.-At 7.20. went on. Thermometer 5'. A very fine morning. At
noon we passed over a wadey, called Zayra, with many shrubs in it, on which a few poor
shepherds from Sockna were feeding their flocks. ... We were every evening much amused
by a little Tibboo boy, called Moosa, about five years of age, whose master was always in
the Kaffle next to us. This child had picked up a few words of Arabic, and spoke very
prettily. The chief amusement of his master, and the Arabs who were with him, was to
make Moosa dance, and then fight another boy of double his age. Whilst sitting opposite to
each other by the fire, their masters made them fight with lighted sticks. Moosa, who
always was the first to be enraged, began to call the other boy an infidel, to curse his father,
and to use many other equally insulting speeches, which the Arabs taught him. The elder
boy, provoked in his turn, then rose to revenge himself, when the little fellow darted at his
legs, and by biting them unmercifully, was always sure of gaining the victory. The Moors
never took the trouble of collecting wood for their fires, but waited until every Kaffle had
supplied itself, when they sent Moosa to steal what he could. Owing to his small size, he
succeeded in these pilferings, to my great amusement, for I found that though he stole from
every one else, he never robbed me, but even supplied me when I was in want of fuel. He
was repeatedly offered to me as a present by his master, and I have since been sorry I
refused him: he was jet black, and extremely pretty. In all the difficult passes he rode on
my right knee, telling me the way in which he was caught, and many long stories besides.
If his master's camels or mine chanced to stray, he would arm himself with a stick and go in
search of them, nor would he give up the chase till he had driven them back; he was indeed
a most engaging child, and I became very fond of him.
Wednesday, 23rd February. Thermometer 4'.-At seven the camels took the road by a
wadey to the left, whilst I and the slaves went over an almost inaccessible mountain, called
Nufdai, which brought us to the well at its foot, called Gutfa, about three miles distant from
our last sleeping place; the water here is very good. We stopped an hour at the well to
water and refresh the slaves and animals, and then wound along a wadey having many
small Talhh trees in it, until we had made about six miles northeast, the mountains opening
out on the left.
Old Baba Hassein, the Turk of whom I have made mention as not giving his Bouzaferr, was
now become quite a standing joke amongst the Kaffle. He spoke very bad Arabic, which,
with his being very lame, and always requiring, when he walked, to be supported by two
Negresses, made him the constant subject of ridicule. He had almost famished his slaves
and camel-men, allowing them to drink once a day only, though he had a plentiful stock of
water. Having a pipe, he amused himself with it day and night; and as smoking was to him
the height of enjoyment, and he always rode a camel, he affected to wonder that the poor
slaves should be fatigued or in want of refreshment. Every other owner had brought ready
ground corn with him for the food of the Negroes; but Baba obliged his poor tired females
to pound their corn every evening after their fatiguing match, in wooden mortars, which he
had brought for the purpose. Though the whole Kaffle had been straitened for water, he
actually brought two whole skins full to the well and the Arabs told me that his slaves lay
down and drank of it like camels. This man had been, about six years before, robbed of all
his goods by the Tuarick, of the tribe of Haggar, when on the confines of the kingdom of
Kashna, on his way from Tunis; but his address, or roguery, more than supplied his loss.
He arrived almost naked at Sakkatoo, the residence of Bello (son of the celebrated Hatman
Danfodio), the Sultan of the Fellata, introducing himself as a Shreef, or descendant of the
Prophet, and telling a piteous story of his losses, which he since owns to have been greatly
exaggerated. Bello, believing him to be a Shreef, took compassion on him, and made him a
kingly present of a hundred Negresses, some of whom, then with him, were really beautiful;
he also supported him for some tinie. The old man had traded with the Negresses, and had
made a great deal of money, with which he was now returning.
We were also accompanied from Zeghen by an old Arab, who appeared to have nothing to
do with loading or unloading the camels, and who always prayed and slept apart from the
Kaffle. I supposed him to be the father of some of the camel-men, and frequently gave him
food, until I learnt that he was related to none of our companions, and that he had but one
object in coming with us, which was to live upon us. He had a voracious appetite, and
finding he could not obtain food at home without working for it, had been for many years
in the habit of passing this desert with the Kaffles, on whom he quartered himself: his
character was well known, yet the Arabs were unable to shake him off, fearing he would
spread a report that they allowed him to starve, while they had plenty, which would have
been a great reproach to them. At the well where I killed the camel, I gave him two days'
allowance, or about four pounds of food, which he devoured at once: he then dined with
my drivers, and again with the Shreef Sadig's men, and even managed to coax the hungry
slaves out of part of their dinner. Having lost his teeth, he never chewed, but bolted his
food, and was a complete glutton.
<At Sockna again> ... the mothers here, and indeed all the townspeople, were at this time in
great alarm, having heard that an Orfilly, or Arab of Benioleed, was prowling about in
search of some child, whom he intended to kill and eat. This wretch had, from the effects of
a loathsome disease, lost his nose, and been otherwise disfigured. Some one had prescribed
to him, or he himself had conceived this dreadful remedy for his sufferings; and, in
consequence, was on the watch for some young victim, in whose warm blood he was to
wash himself, and then devour its flesh. An infant girl of two or three years of age had, a
short time before, been rescued from him, and he was now wandering about the
neighbourhood in search of another child. The Sockna Arabs had all agreed to shoot him if
they could meet him, and Lizari had also given his promise to despatch him if he came in
his way.
The Orfilly Arabs have almost universally a bad character, and are much disliked, not,
however, without reason. A man murdered or robbed, a house fired, a camel stolen, or any
lawless act, is almost always traced to an Orfilly; and certainly a more insolent, thievish,
and begging set of men I never saw. They even exceed the Sockna men in this particular:
"Give me, give me," is their cry from morning till night.
... The Tripoli money is the currency of Sockna, which occasions great losses to the people,
who are obliged to pay their taxes to Mukni in Spanish dollars, which they buy at
extravagant prices. The Bashaw's coin is now almost worthless.
It is not the custom here to bury the dates, which in consequence are very fine, and free
from sand; but they keep them in store-huts built for the purpose. I imagine that their
being so exposed may account in some degree for the multitude of flies found here.
All the houses are built on the same plan, having a small square court in the centre, from
which a few steps lead to an open gallery, which is the principal room. The other rooms are
on the ground floor, and one or two open from the gallery; they have no windows, but
receive their light from the doors, which are all curiously chequered and striped with a
kind of black paint made from burnt wool, mixed with gum-water. As they are composed
of many rounded pannels of date-wood, some appear like the backs of large old books. A
little blackish rat was brought to me, which was really very curious; it had a head
resembling that of a badger, with wool, mixed with gum-water. As they are composed of
many rounded pannels of date-wood, some appear like the backs of large old books. A little
blackish rat was brought to me, which was really very curious; it had a head resembling
that of a badger, with the same peculiar marks by the side of the face; its tail was long,
black, and rather bushy. Belford and myself contrived to make a cage for it out of a tin
canister, and I discovered that it had the power of clinging to the bars, and climbing with
its back downwards: it was very fierce, but I had great hopes of being able to bring it
home, as well as three other animals, called by the Arabs
Dthub which resembled lizards in many respects, but were much more clumsily formed,
and slower in their motions: their tails were broad, and covered with scaly spikes, and they
could hang by their fore paws, which they had the power of closing on any object: their
head and nose much resembled those of the hawk'sbill turtle, and to a certain degree, they
changed their colour as cameleons do.
I was rubbed this day with a mixture, which the Arabs consider excellent in cases of fever,
and which really, though it made me very dirty, rendered my skin quite comfortable : it
was composed of a small aromatic seed, the name of which I have forgotten, with lavender
from Tripoli, and cloves, pounded together, and mixed with oil and vinegar; it is rubbed
over the whole body and head, until nearly dry. My doctress was a white woman of
Tripoli, who, in fear of her life, had escaped from thence.
About eighteen months before this period, the Bashaw, one evening, surprised his black
wives and a party of their female friends, making merry, or in other words, very drunk and
noisy, and playing all sorts of extraordinary pranks; on sight of him they fled in all
directions, leaving in his presence, his wife or wives, with this Tripoline woman and a
Negress slave. The latter had her throat cut immediately in the presence of her mistress,
the wives were threatened with death, and the white woman, named Sleema, the doctress
above-mentioned, received five hundred bastinadoes; she was then allowed to depart, but
the Bashaw afterwards thought proper to send after her, with an order that she should be
strangled. She was fortunate enough to escape, and after wandering about for some time,
attached herself to Lilla Fatma, who was also exiled and given to Sheikh Barood, with
whom she arrived safely at Fezzan. The poor woman, owing to severe illness, was on the
brink of the grave during her stay at Morzouk, which made her determine on leaving the
place, and braving every danger by a return to Tripoli. On my coming away, she put
herself under my protection, and I promised to intercede with the Bashaw for her pardon.
... The slaves were very much fatigued, and with great difficulty came up with us. I always
observed that the females were much less exhausted by travelling than the males; the
former walked together and sung in chorus, nearly the whole day, which enlivened them
and beguiled the way. Lizari had four little girls, of whom the eldest was about eight, and
the youngest four years old; these children were continually playing and running after each
other, yet the smaller one was always as lively after a day's march, as at first setting out:
she was apparently so little fatigued in an evening, as to be frequently reproved for keeping
every one awake by her gambols. There was a merry boy, too, who frequently kept the
Kaffle in a roar of laughter, by mimicking the auctioneer who sold him, and several of his
countrymen, at the Morzouk market a few weeks before.
Tuesday, 7th March, very cloudy close weather. ... Myriads of sand flies distressed us very
much by the sharpness of their bite. At seven we stopped at the wells and castle of Bonjem
having made thirty-five miles. We were all on the alert this night, having been informed
that a party of Orfilly, or Arabs of Benioleed, were encamped in a small cluster of date
trees which were in sight from the well, and robbing every one that passed. They had
tapped all the palms, and were living on lackbi, and the flesh of any stray camels they could
find. A little artful boy, under pretence of wanting a skin of water, came to the well to
reconnoitre, and on being questioned, gave some very suspicious answers; however, I
suppose the report he made of our being constantly on guard secured us a quiet rest. A
very heavy dew fell during the night; and we were aware that wild animals were prowling
round us.
Wednesday, March 8th. Having filled four days' water, at twelve went on and encamped
about four miles N.W. of Bonjem, to let the camels feed on the bushes, which were in great
number. The day was very sultry, and the slaves had oil given them to grease themselves. I
observed, that near the wells of Bonjem, the ground swarms with a species of tick, which
attacks man and beast, is very nimble, and causes severe pain by its bite.
Thursday, March 9th.-We set off at eight in a very thick fog, which rendered it impossible
to distinguish objects at a few yards distance. Our road was over a hilly gravelly ground,
and we passed one or two Wadeys thickly set with bushes of talhh. Here I had an attack of
hemma, and remained behind with my horse, that I might lie down and relieve the pain.
At about one o'clock, being a little recovered, I mounted and followed the track of the
camels, but soon lost it in a gravelly plain. I proceeded, in hopes of again finding it; but as
we were amongst steep hills, all of nearly the same appearance, I could form no idea
between which of them the Kaffle had taken its course. I ascended the highest hill to look
for it, straining my eyes in all directions, but to no purpose: I succeeded, however, in
galloping back to the spot where I had last seen the tracks, and fired my gun, but nothing
replied to me, or broke on the awful stillness around. My situation now became very
alarming, and my spirits began to sink, when I viewed the fearful prospect before me,
which, if I failed to regain the Kaffle, threatened me with the horrors of a lingering and
painful death.
I examined my saddle-bags, and found that they contained not a single article of provision;
my powder-horn had unfortunately been left on my camel; my note-book, however, was
luckily in my possession, and on looking over it, I found, what was of some importance to
me, that I had marked all the back bearings. I knew, that whether I advanced or retraced
my steps, I should equally be two days distant from a well and was aware that, even in
reaching one, I might not have power to get at the water; my horse, at any rate, was not
likely to survive two days' privation of it. In this extremity, and not knowing what
direction to take, I found my only resource to preserve life, supposing I obtained water,
would be to kill my poor animal, and to subsist on his flesh, with the hope of being, in the
meantime, relieved by some passing traveller: but this chance was very remote, the road we
were pursuing being but little frequented; and as to any other means of extricating myself,
I could devise none. After some time passed in reflecting on what might probably be my
melancholy fate if left on the desert, a sudden impulse induced me to trust to the guidance
of my horse, and, giving him the reins, I allowed him to take what course he chose, little
imagining how nearly I approached the end of my difficulties. Whilst proceeding on my
way, almost hopeless of extricating myself, and in a direction quite contrary to that which I
had fancied to be the right one, I unexpectedly perceived that I had crossed the track, and
was actually in a Wadey full of talhh trees, bearing evident marks of having been recently
passed over by our camels. Following this sure guide, I soon found myself once more in the
safe path, and my feelings at such unlooked for and providential deliverance may be more
easily imagined than described. As I was riding slowly along, I discovered, out of the track,
a poor Negress lying under a bush, where, overcome by fatigue and illness, she had stopped
behind, unregarded, to die.
Having myself so recently escaped the horrors of a lingering death, I felt tenfold
commiseration for this poor helpless being; and having with some difficulty placed her on
my horse, I took her quietly along; at such a pace indeed, as much to retard coming up
with my people, whom I found in great alarm about me. They feared I must have strayed
on the desert, or have fallen on the road from sickness; and such were their kind feelings
towards me, that they sent a camel and a supply of water, provisions, and a carpet, with
two men, to seek for me in all directions. I met them at 5.30. soon after they set out, and
found that the Kaffle had, on my account, stopped for the night two hours before.
When I took the slave to her master, who was not aware of her being missing, he gave me
no thanks, nor allowed the poor exhausted creature any food or refreshment; and had I not
been present to prevent it, he would no doubt have added to her sufferings by a severe
beating.
... <After arriving back at Tripoli> Notwithstanding my happiness at once more joining my
Christian friends, I really felt no small regret at taking leave of our poor fellow travellers,
many of whom I knew were destined to proceed to Tunis and Turkey. Their good
humoured gaiety and songs had lightened to me many hours of pain and fatigue, and their
gratitude for any little benefits I had it in my power to confer had quite warmed my heart
towards them. Even when so exhausted as to be almost unable to walk, these poor
creatures showed few instances of sulkiness or despondency; the first stanza of a song
having been sung by one, enlivened the whole Kaffle, who immediately joined in chorus.
Their patience under fatigue, and endurance of thirst, was very extraordinary. Khalifa's
girls were allowed to drink only once in twenty-four hours, yet they were always cheerful.
I was frequently amused by observing the pains taken by these innocent savages to adorn
themselves; their love of finery never ceasing, even when no one was near to admire them.
Though overcome by privation of every kind, and by the fatigue of a long day's journey,
they employed themselves in converting into neck ornaments, snail shells, berries, or any
other whimsical objects they could meet with. Those who possessed rings, bead bands for
the head, or silver ear-rings, never failed to put them on when they stopped for the, night,
washing and oiling their skins whenever they had an opportunity; they also constantly used
Kohl to blacken their eyelids, and to make different marks on the face.
One of the women of the Felleta had a little male child, which was carried by turns by the
whole Kaffle. Her milk had failed her, and this poor infant had nothing to nourish him but
a mixture of cold water and flour, unless I sometimes gave him some cusscussou. He, as
well as his mother, was a shade lighter than a mulatto, which is generally the colour of their
tribe.
Several of the girls carried with them an instrument called Zantoo. It is a long gourd
hollowed out, having a hole at each end, and is played by striking one end against the calf
of the leg, and occasionally stopping the other by a quick blow of the open hand. It has a
very pleasing effect when well played, and the glass armlets, which are sometimes worn to
the number of eight or ten on each arm, add to it a pretty tinkling sound. Whenever a
party had a little outwalked the Kaffle, and sat down to rest, the Zantoos were set in
motion, and were accompanied by their plaintive national airs. The wild music and
picturesque appearance of these resting parties was very pleasing, and I seldom passed one
of them without having a lively chorus addressed to me.
There is a small bush found on the Desert, called by the slaves Wussawussa, with leaves
resembling those of box in form, but tender, and having a very salt taste; these the slaves
collected whenever they could, and boiled with their evening meal; and the flavour is not
unpleasant.
In some of the wadeys were many thorny bushes bearing small black berries, called
Dummagh , or "brains," which have a very sweet, but at the same time astringent taste,
and of which these poor girls always brought me large supplies, in return for my assisting
those who were fatigued or thirsty. In fact, Belford and myself, being the only persons who
did not beat or ill treat them, became great favourites; and my talents in particular were so
highly appreciated, that not a male or female slave tore or wore out their sandal feathers,
but they were immediately brought to me to be repaired, as I had always some leather in
my pocket for that purpose: I thus became cobbler to the whole Kaffle.
None of the owners ever moved without their whips, which were in constant use; that of
Hadje Mohammed more so than the rest: in fact, he was so perpetually flogging his poor
slaves, that I was frequently obliged to disarm him. Drinking too much water, bringing too
little wood, or falling asleep before the cooking was finished, were considered nearly capital
crimes, and it was in vain for these poor creatures to plead the excuse of being tired;
nothing could at all avert the application of the whip. No slave dares to be ill or unable to
walk; but when the poor sufferer dies, the master suspects there must have been something
"wrong inside," and regrets not having liberally applied the usual remedy of burning the
belly with a red hot iron; thus reconciling to themselves their cruel treatment of these
unfortunate creatures.
I settled with my camel-men the day after my arrival in Tripoli, and having, great reason to
fear that Belford's health was too much injured to proceed immediately, I agreed to remain
there a short time, that he might be benefited by the advice of my friend, Dr. Dickson, who
had kindly taken him under his care: he had been for six months afflicted with dysentery,
was quite deaf, and so reduced as to be nearly a skeleton ...
<Remarks about the Desert> ... Having, from the time of leaving Tripoli until my return
from Fezzan, been constantly on the Desert, I shall endeavour to give a description of the
country so called. In all our maps, Sahara is the appellation used to distinguish that
immense tract, known also by the name of the Great Desert.
Oasis is the term used for fertile spots or islands, said to be situated on the Sahara; and
Fezzan is supposed to be one of these Oasis: whereas, it is now evident, that it also is a
Desert, with the exception of palms and small gardens, cultivated with great labour and
difficulty, in the immediate vicinity of towns. No herbage ever grows spontaneously, except
in wadeys or amongst rocks; and these in such small patches, that I never yet saw a spot
covered with verdure of the size of a table, unless in the mountains near Tripoli. The Arabs
have a name for every description of waste or desert, viz. the following:
1 Sahara
2 Ghrood
3 Sereery
4 Warr
5 Hatia
6 Wishek
7 Ghraba or Jezeera
8 Soobker
9 Wadey
10 Gibel
Sahara is the name commonly used to particularise that description of Desert which is of
sand alone, forming a plane surface, without either stones, rocks, water, or any sustenance
capable of supporting animal or vegetable life, with a smooth horizon and without beaten
paths.
Ghrood are those species of sand hills which I mentioned having some being so steep as to
be entirely impassable: others, and indeed all of this particular name, are traversed with
difficulty. In some instances, palms grow on these hills; which are generally situated on the
borders of stony plains, where the wind has collected and formed them.
Sereer is the appellation of gravelly plains, from which the sand has been swept by the force
of the winds; and it is on this kind of Desert alone that sand hills are found. The gravel is
generally of a small size: in some instances, rounded as pebbles on a sea beach; in others,
sharp and pointed, as if recently broken; and a third kind is not unfrequently seen,
covering spaces of many miles in extent, of stones which have a shining exterior, as if highly
polished.
Warr is a rough plain, covered with large detached stones lying in confusion, and very
difficult to pass over. The tops of mountains, particularly the Soudah, are distinguished by
this name: it is, in fact, applied to such tracts of country as are only travelled with the
greatest fatigue and difficulty, on account of the many obstacles thrown in the way by
stones, small hillocks, &c.
Hatia implies a spot which possesses, in a slight degree, the power of fertility, and produces
a few small stinted shrubs, scattered at intervals, on Nvhich camels way make a scanty
meat or travellers a fire.
Wishek: sand hills or plains, which aford only wild, unproductive, or uncultivated date
bushes, are called by this name. All Wishek bear the appearance of having been formerly
what are called
Ghraba, which is a term always used to distinguish parts which produce cultivated or fruit-bearing palms, but having no town near them; the owners of the dates only coming in the
season to collect them. Zezeera is a term also used in common with Ghraba, but I believe
only by Fezzanners.
Soobker is the designation of salt-plains, which are marshy in winter, and in summer
become broken and rough by the influence of the sun; or of that particular species found in
Fezzan, where the salt and earth or sand are so closely combined, as to form a substance
resembling stone, and equally hard to cut or break. One of these plains, between Traghan
and Mafen, is about three or four miles in the broadest part, and above twenty-five in
length.
Wadey is a term of which I have frequently made use, yet I have given but a slight
explanation of. It is a valley in which shrubs grow, or through which the rains form a
temporary stream. Near Tripoli the Wadeys are sometimes the courses of impetuous torrents; but in Fezzan, where rain is almost unknown, they are smooth dens, very rarely
producing a single plant. A small rift in the mountains, capable of containing only eight or
ten camels abreast, is as much a Wadey as a large valley containing a town or towns, and
the date trees belonging to such settlements.
Gibel, or Mountain, is a term I need not explain; but merely as showing that it is by no
means a matter of course that a Desert must be flat, or nearly so, as even in the kingdom of
Fezzan, mountains are very numerous.
Sahara, therefore, is only applicable to sandy districts, and the Arabs only use the word
Berr, or country, as a general term. In no part of the Desert, which I have seen, or of which
I could obtain accounts, does it appear that water is found on the surface: hence it seems
extraordinary, that wild animals should exist; yet antelopes, buffaloes, and some other
animals, are, in different places, very numerous. Rats are frequently found to burrow in
plains twenty or thirty miles distant from shrubs, and their food is unknown; no birds
being found there, and the small lizards and snakes, as well as the few insects, being too
active to be caught by them. In some parts, the only living creature seen for many days is a
small insect somewhat resembling a spider, called Naga t' Allah, or the "She camel of God,"
Beetles are also seen where Kaffles rest, or in the vicinity of shrubs; and their curious
tracks in the sand are so marked, that I have sometimes traced the same insect for a mile or
two as I rode along.
Nothing can be more awful than the stillness which prevails, more particularly when the
surface is sandy. I have sometimes walked at night from the Kaffle, so as to be beyond the
noise made by the camels or horses, and have experienced a sensation I am unable to
describe, as I felt the wind blow past me, and heard the sound which my figure caused it to
make, by arresting its progress. Near towns, or in places where animals can exist, the slow
melancholy cry of the hyena or jackal is frequently heard during the night, when these
animals prowl round the Kaffle.
The appearance of water on the sandy and gravelly deserts is very frequent, and is
generally so well defined, that it would be difficult to distinguish it from a river, were it
possible that both could be seen at the same time. It is called Shrab by the Arabs, who
often amused themselves by calling to us that water was in sight, until we became
accustomed to the appearance. Of this curious phenomenon so much has been said by
various writers, that any attempt at description on my part would be unnecessary. The
looming of objects when the sun is at its greatest strength, is very striking; as from the
vapour which rises, they are, at a slight distance, much obscured. I have frequently, in
riding along, been delighted at observing in the distance, a tree which appeared sufficiently
large to shade me from the sun, and to allow of my reposing under it, until the camels came
up; and have often quickened my pace in consequence, until, on a near approach, it has
proved to be nothing more than a bush, which did not throw a shade sufficient even to
shelter one of my hands. Sand hills deceive still more, always appearing very distant when
the sun is on them; and it has often happened, that I have been startled by seeing a man or
camel rise close to me, on the top of one of the apparently distant hills. The excessive
dryness of the Desert is in some places very extraordinary, particularly to the southward of
the Soudah mountains, where, in going to as well as coming from Fezzan, I observed that
our clothes, and the tails of our horses, emitted electric sparks.
Water is not to be found by digging in all parts of the Desert; but is more particularly
difficult to find in the Sereer, or gravel, which generally lies over sand stone. In two
instances I have seen remains of pits which had been dug to one hundred feet without
coming to water. The wells which are on the Desert are generally found in Wadeys or in
the sandy country; and in all those I have seen, the water was salt and putrid, but the
putrescence diminished after a quantity had been drawn. Some wells have only a
sufficiency for the supply of five or six horses at once, and are a long time before they again
fill. The wells which were so scantily supplied, I observed, were always in a soft clayey
rock; but those which kept themselves tolerably full, were in a yellow clay. The depths vary
from 6 or 8 feet to 70 or 80.
In almost every part of the stony desert, small piles of stones are frequently discovered,
which are erected by travellers as marks to direct them across the country, or in the event
of their missing their route, to assist them again to find it. These little heaps are called
Aalum or "teachers"; and some become so remarkable, as to acquire other names, and to
be favourite resting-places of Kaffles.
Return to the Asia page.
Last Updated March 1, 2002 by Sylvia