A Viag of Ambusad,

or John Tradescant's Journey to Russia, 1618



In 1618, John Tradescant embarked on a voyage to Russia in the company of Sir Dudley Digges.

Digges, born in 1583, was a shareholder in the East India Company (whose name is, of course, well-known) and a founding member of the less famous North West Passage Company; he had spent several years traveling aboard. Tradescant (c. 1570-1638) was an amateur naturalist, in an age before the science of naturalism had yet been born. By trade, he was a master gardener, and may have worked for Digges. He was a collector of plants and curiosities; in latter days he opened a museum and show garden in his Lambeth house, the famous Tradescant's Ark.

The Russian Tsar, in 1618, was at war with Poland. He had sent ambassadors to England, to negotiate a loan, and King James of England ordered the Muscovy and East India Companies to furnish the money. King James then dispatched Digges, who was a member of both companies, to Archangel (which was then called Muscovy) to arrange the terms; it was hoped that Digges would be able to win the right of free transit for English merchandise not to Russia itself, but through Russian ports and roads to the markets of Persia. There was also a faint hope of establishing a northern trade route to China.

Digges sailed on the 3rd of June, with 20,000 pounds and a company of forty-one men; the Russian ambassadors returned home in a second ship, the two vessels sailing in tandem. John Tradescant was among Digges' men. The mission was to prove a failure; Digges arrived to a Russia in chaos, traveled less than half-way to Moscow, and then decided for undisclosed reasons to abort the effort and return forthwith to England. He sent only part of the money (and a few of his retinue) onward to Moscow.

Tradescant, meanwhile, had already sailed for home. His interests were in botany, not diplomacy or commerce. However, he kept a diary of the mission; he called it 'A Viag of Ambusad'.

This journal falls into two parts; one lists the events of the voyage, the second lists botanical discoveries and describes events ashore. The original manuscript was in what we would now call highly phonetic spelling (for the English language was not standardized in Tradescant's day) nor had it any great claims to punctuation. It was divided into paragraphs, but went no further. Some punctuation has been added here, merely to make it more legible. Also, a copy in modernized spelling follows the original.

The manuscript eventually found its way into the Bodleian Library.

It was rediscovered in 1814, almost two hundred years later.

Here it is.





A Viag of Ambusad



A viag of Ambusad undertaken by the Right Honnerabl Sr Dudlie Digees in the year 1618, being atended on withe 6 genttillmen whiche beare the nam of the Kings Genttillmen, whose name be heere notted - on Mr Nowell, brother to the Lord Nowell, Mr Thomas Finche, Mr Woodward, Mr Cooke, Mr Fante & Mr Henry Wyeld, withe every on of them ther man. Other folloers on Briggas, Interpreter; Mr jams, an Oxford man, his Chaplin; on Mr Leake, his Secretary; with 3 Scots, on Captain Gilbert and his son, with on Car; also Mr Mathew De Questers son of Filpot Lane in London. The rest his own retennat sume 13, whearof note on Jonns an Coplie, Wustershir men; Mr Swanli of Limhouse, Master of the good shape called the Dianna of Newcastell; Mr Nelson, part ownner of Newecastell.

The 3 of June 1618 being Wednesday we wayed ancor at Gravesend and fell doune to Tilbery Hope. The Thursday after we, after diner, wayed and went to lee withe a calme wind, the wind being West. On Friday being the 5 date we ancored short of the Spits. But the wind changing and blowing hard we wayed and put roomer <tacked> for Quinborrow <Queenborough>, whear we lay 2 nights and on day withe a conttrary wind. On Munday, being the 8 of June, at 4 of the clock in the morning we wayed ancor withe a Southwest wind whiche conttinewed 48 howers but sumwhat calm. On Wednesday morning the wind changed to the West Norwest and so conttinewed over blowing till Satterday the 12 of Jun, the wind conttrary, whear all our landmen fell sick, and my Lord himselfe for 4 daies very sick. On Satterday towars night the wind sumwhat seased. On Sunday the 14 daye ther cam up with us a man of war of Encusan, on of the Stars men of war, which halling us gave eche other the curtisi of the sea and so parted, wee standing in for the land. On Sunday nyght mad the l<a>nd of the Bishopbrick of Durram. On Monday and Mund night we tyded up with the shore and Tusday all day, to recover the Tinmouthe haven to releve our sick men withe freshe vittells from Newecastell, the wind all this while beinge just in our teethe. I must not omit the great fleet of Hollonders that lay at ancor in the sea, which wear to our thinking wear 100 and 50 sayls, all fishing for cod and somer herring.

On Sunday being the 14 day we had sight of toune 7 leags to the Southe of Newecastell. Munday and Tewesday we beate up and donne to recover Newcastell, but could not. On Wednesday being the 17th day my <Lord> caused the boat to <be> hoysed out to set his people on shore and my selfe and on other to goe to Newchatell for make provissions of beef and muttons withe many other nesesaryes, wheare I bought 11 salmons for 5s. the cupple and sum for 4s. the cupple, whiche at London would have bin worth 2 li 10s. the cuple. Also we went to suppe at the best ordinary in the toune with many dishes. Our win being payd for cam but to 8d. the peece, whiche in London I think 2s. the peece would have hardli mached it. On Thursday we returned to the shipe with sume 17lis worthe of provission, the wind then being fayre. But withein an houre after the wind changed and cam full in our teethe, that on the next morning the wind being so full in our teethe we determined with the counsell of our Vise-admirall to put into the harber. But my Lord and myself most against it, we continewed without. On Friday in the afternoons the wind cam to the East and be Northe, so we claud it of to sea and avoyded the former feare. Sir Georg Selbe sent to my Lord Imbassator for a present 2 salmons and on hogshead of beeare. The Mayre of Newcastell the day before sent him on samone, using his genttillmen withe much curtisle, being ashore at Shialds 6 mylls short of Newcastell, his Lordship keeping abord all the whille.

On Thursday being the 19 of June about 4 of the clock in the afternoons we weyled ancor before Tinmouthe Castell, the wind being West and by Southe, but slack, whiche we pased that night. But on Fryday the wind scantted <veered ahead> to the Nor west, wheare we laye Northeast away withe a leeward way, the wind increasing and changing mor Northe. The Satterday the wind began to rise, on Sunday to encreas, being full in our teethe. Munday and Tewsday still the storme conttinewing till Thursday morning. In all this whill we weare constrayned to <go> under our two coorses. On Wednesday the wind changed West. In whiche 4 dayes my Lord Ambassittor was exstreem sick, in so much that all they in the ship mad question of his life, partli by sea sickness and partli by over muche coller, that he was purswaded to be set on land or not to live. Being just 40 leags from the Northern part of Scotland and 40 from the coast of Norway, and in 58 and better in the lattatud, the wind then changed to the West, whiche Scotland we could not recover, the<n> to the Southeast Bar Elsenoor, whiche was the next plase, which wase 110 leages from us, the wind still coming more calme and more larg <free>, that we perswaded him to hould on his coorce. And on Thursday his lordship, after the calme, reseved sume meate, which in 4 dayes before he bade refused. On the Friday morning being the 26 of June he had a littill sleepe, the Great God be blessed for it.

Even beyond our hops the wind and sea was calme and fair whiche before that time had bine still cros. Now on Tewsday and Wednesday we had sight of 4 sayll to windward of us, to the Eastward of us, and on the morow we lost them not speaking withe them. On Wednesday we had sight of on sayll to the westward, standing our corse, but spake not withe hir. Nowe on this present Friday the 26 the wind is fayr and our sick people well recovered. God conttinew them bothe, healthe and wind. Now being in 60 degrees, by the reason of my Lords sicknes I wached and had no night. This was the first plas whear darknes seases for the night. Thear you mought have wrought or wrot at midnight. The satterday the wind fayr but dead; came Sunday and Munday, being the 28 and 29 of Jun, the wind scant but a fine gall at the East and by Northe.

On Saynt Peetter's day on the morning my Lord sent the Russian Imbassator fresh vytalls: on quarter of mutton, half a littill porker, and 3 live pullet, ther Lent being but then ended. Also at New Castell my Lord sent hime two small salmons and 9 gallons of Carnary Sack. The curtiseys hathe pased a yet witheout requittall.

Also on Munday nyght the cam a strang bird abord our shipe, which was taken alive and put to my costody, but dyed within two dayes after being 60 leags from the shore, whos like I yet never sawe, whos case I have reserved. This was in 66 degrees in the latitud. On Tewsday night the wind cam fayer, being the first of Jully, in 6 7 or a littill short, whear the sune did showe sume small part of hir boddy all the night. At 65 we layd the light of the moone being so far to the Sutheward of us.

On Friday the 3 of July a man of Mr Decrass cam abord of us to take counsell about sending away the pinnas for Greenland, the year being so far spent. As they thought the Russes being landed, the time of the yeare would be too far spent, whear it was decreed that that shee should goe on of hir intended vyage. This mans name was Mr Spyke who was made welcom according to the maner of the seae. My Lord sent back withe him two bottelis of his wine, on of sack and on of clarret, even present fit for suche people, yet two great as the time required by reson of our long voyag. Now from Munday the 29 of June to Friday night the 3 of July the wind hathe bin very fayre at the Southe and Southewest, whiche God continnewe, we lying our coorce Northeast.

On Satterday the 4 of July the pinnas partted withe us, we then standing our coorse East and East and by Southe, the pinnas standing away from us Northe and by East. That night at 12 of the clocke we sawe the sune shine about an howr hyghe just Northe, whiche we had not scene 4 dayes befor nor in two dayes after, being ever an extreem fogge.

On the Sunday the 5 of Jully we saw many whalls, sum hard by the shipe. On the Munday morning being an exstreeme fogg our Master thought he had sene land, whiche mad hime alter a poynt or two of his compas to the North. This <thus> have we been witheout the light of sune 5 dayes, being in the heyght of the Cape, whiche as we think we wer 72 and better to the Northe.

On Munday morning we had sight of the Northe Cape, whiche is all covered withe snow, whear we felt the ayre very could, the land being highe land, all ilands, withe many bayes amongst the lande.

On the Tewsday morning very early we came upe with on of the King of Denmarks men of war, who demanded of us to com abord to show oure pase, but we ansered that our boat was stowed, we could not; besides we had an Inglishe Ambassator abord, whiche he presentlie desisted from his demand. Our consort also told him in lik sort that he had a Rus Ambasitor abord. Also in his company we found the Companyes other shipe who had bin from hir port from Hamborow 3 weeks withe other two in his company, allso two Hollanders, who he caussed ther boats to com abord. We at that time had bin out of Ingland 5 weeks lacking a daye. This man of war laye to waft or watter the fishermen that fishe upon that coast of Wardhouse <Vardohuus>, wheare the King hathe a castell withe great comand of Lapland, wheare many Danes live withe the Laps which, if I mought have the wholl kingdom to be bound to live ther, I had rather be a porter in London, for the snow is never of the ground wholly, but liethe in great packes conttinnewally. Ther is no shadowe for the sun shinethe ther continnewally when it is no foggs whiche most tims it is. The Kings man of war gave us a peece or gune, whiche we ansered withe another; and our Vise admirall gave him 3. And so for that time partted, being now short of Wardhouse 3 leags, standing our coorse Southeast, the wind at the West, being Inglishe and strangers 7 sayls bound for Archangell.

Now from the time befor named on the eleventh of July we have had a fayer wind, sometimes going Sutheaste and sumtlmes Suthe and su[mltimes Suthewest, all being our corse. This eleventh day we had a small boat of that cunttrie of the Cros Iland that brought his bote laden withe salmons 3 dayes salted. My Lord bought on for 4s. Od. mony, a very great on. Now after wee wer so far as Cross Iland the snowe began to abate and the natur of the coaste to change from russet to a greener coller, the inland being full of shruby trees, and further of of we moughte perseve great woods, but all this way no kind of grayne. Nowe to speake of the boate and the men. The men on of them was a man about 50 yeares withe on eye, hard favored. The yonger man was about 25 years, well favored and well limbed, and bothe clad in lether, withe the skins of sheepe withe the firs syde inwards, bothe having crusifixes about the necks very arttifityally mad. I have scene manie in Ingland of ther profetion worse fationed. Ther boat was small, very neatly mad, lik to the manner of Holland scuts.

On Sunday being the 13 of Jully the wind being conttrary, being sume 6 leags short of Foxnose, we had sighte of a great whight fishe tw<i>se so great as a porpos, being all over as whire as snowe, wh'che they say is a great destroyer of the salmons.

On the Munday the 1 3 o f Jully, ther were many small birds cam abord the shape, being sume 3 leags from the shore. I have thre of ther skins whiche were cant by my self and the rest of the company. They did muche resemble the maner of our Inglishe linnets but far lesser.

On Tuesday the 14 of Jully wee cam to the bar, wheare we spent on daye because it was calme. On the Wednesdaye we went over the bar having but on foot watter mor thin the shipe drew.

On the Thursday the 16 day we came into the harbor but before we cam halfe the way the souldgers cam to sallut their owne ambassators, but not us. But in the halfe way pasag in the river the Grand Prestave sallutted my Lord withe mani boats full of souldgers, who himselfe was entterteyned in the cabbin withe a banket of sweetemeats, the agent and the rest of the Inglishe merchants having had the like entterteynment just before his coming. Whear at his departur we gave 3 peeses of ordnance, and he us his small shot, whiche was but poorile performed, ther peeces being hardil so good as our callivers, neyther had the soulgers any expertnes like to thees in thees parts. Farther at our first entterance over the bar intto the river we reseved from the agent on good bullock, 2 sheep, 10 hens, 2 fesants, 6 pattriges, non lik the Inglishe. That night came abord of our ship a boat of Sammoyets, a misserable people of small grouth. In my judgment is that people whom the fixtion is fayned of that should have no heads, for they have short necks and commonly wear ther clothes over head and shoulders. They use boues and arrowes. The men and women be hardit knowne on from the other because they all wear clothes like mene and be all clad in skins of beasts packed very curousile together, stokins and all. They kill most of the Lothi deer that the hids be brought. The<y> be extreme beggars not to be denied.

Farther that night we wayed anccor by reson of the two fluds. The first is but 2 howres and then a swift ebe; and then, presentlie after two howers, a long flud like ours. In that place wheare we anccored I desired to have the boat to goe on shore whiche was hard by, wher, when we wear land, we found many sorts of beryes, on sort lik our strawberyes but of another fation of leaf. I have brought sume of them hom to show withe suche variettle of moss and shrubs, all bearing frute, suche as I have never scene the like. Also at our first landing we found a peece of a snacke skin. Also in that same place we sprung 5 foulls suche as all those in the place whear we landed hardlie knewe, the ould ons were great to the bignes of a fesant, the wings whir, the bodies green, the tayll blewe or dove coller. I would have given 5s. for on of ther skins. Now Thursday night we mord our shipe befor the Inglishe house. On Friday we went on shore withe all the showe we could make, being ffeched withe the Prestave and the rest of his band. The houses that wer taken up for my Lords lodging were 3 severall mene, 2 Duche and on Wlikinson a Inglishe mane. They be all built of wholl trees layd on on the top of the other, very strong withe fayr roomes, packed betwin the hollowes with wood moss. Havying but poor bedsteds, content to lay our bodi on the ground.

On Munday I had on of the Emperors boats to cari me from iland to iland to see what things growe upon them, whear I found single rosses wondros sweet withe many other things which I meane to bringe withe me, wheare I observed the basness of the people. For we had a comander withe us who was glad to be partaker of coorce cares, as we thear could get, whiche was sower creame and otmeall pasties very poorli mad, whiche to them was a great bankit.

The 5 of August 1618 we set sayll for Ingland from the poynt a myll from the toune. That night we cam to an ancor under Rose Iland, wheare I <and> divers <others> went on shore, whear ther was a littill souldgers house poorly garded withe sum 10 men, whear we bought gras for our live sheepe, whear I gathered of all suche things as I could find thear growing, whiche wear 4 sorts of berries, whiche I brought awaye withe me of every sortt. This liand is lowe land all over but whcare the house stands, and that place is a long banke of drie whire sand, the land being eyther woods or meddow, but seldom eyther mowne or fed.

The 6 of August we weyed ancor, the wind being fayer, and went. For the bar is but 11 foot watter and our shipe drew I 0 and a halfe, the tide being then neape, whear we cam on and sat 6 or 8 howers to oure great grefe, a flawe <sudden gust of wind> presentli rising, whiche if it had continewed the shipe must needs have perished. But, thanks be to God, the next tyd we cam of without any harme. The next day we wear becalmed. The 8 day in the morning we mad Cros Iland, the wind being fayre but small and much raine, insomuche that all the decks wear leake, whiche for my own part I felt for it rayned donne thourow all my clothes and beds to the spoyll of them all. The 8 day at night we met withe on of the Stars men of war that the Russian Ambassator cam home in of Cape Grace. From the 8 to the 10 conttrary winds. From the 10 to the 13 extrem fogs, so that in 4 or 5 dayes we went but 10 leags ahead. Of Cape Gallant we met withe the race o f a tyde; the fog being extreme we wear afrayd of being brought upon a rock. But thanks be to God it proved better.

The 14 daye being Fridaye, dead calme, we mad a sayll whiche we thought had bin but a Dingo bote, whiche when we wear com up withe hir it was a great Flemin, but could not speake withe hir. That daye we sawe mani whalls, whear the owner of <the> ship sawe on chased withe a thresher and called me to see it, but they rose no more. The next day being Satterday wee had a great storme, the wind being at East. On Sunday towards night the storme seased and the wind changed West. That night we mad the Northe Cape. On Munday it was calme withe much fog, <to> whiche that place is muche subject.

In the night the wind ros. On Tuesdaye the wind blew hard all day at the Northe and by West, so that the Master feared the making the way good, we going und<er> bothe oure corses withe raine and snow.

On Tuesday the 18 of August we laye West and <West> and by Northe, the wind being scant. On Wednesday we went roomer 25 leags. On Thursday we stood our coorce. On Friday and Satterday we had a fayre wind. On Satterday at noone the Maste<r> obse<r>ved and found his heyght to be 68 to the Northe and in the Bay of Ros. On the Friday night we had 3 howers night, whiche we had not had since the going outward from the heyght 66, which was all day 8 weeks together withe us.

On Sunday, Mu<n>day, Tusdaday the wind contrary. On Wednesday we had sight of a saylle. On Thursday we mad hir mor perfectly cloce by a wind, the win<d> being for the most part sowethe. We mad two saylls, but lost them presently by reson of a fogg. On Friday morning being the 23 of August the wind cam fayre to the Northeast and continnewed so 5 waches. That night it changed, wheare they observed and found themselves in 64. On Satterday midnight the wind changed East and so continewed all that day wit a great storme. At night it changed. On Munday the last of August we observed and found them in the lattitude of 62 degrees, the wind directly against them.

On Tusday and Wednesday sutherly winds contrary. On Thursday the Southe and by East very vyolently, that the storme was great 18 howers against us, that we wear constrained to trie withe oure main coorce shiping sum seaes. On Thursday night the wind calmed. On Friday it veered westerly. Then we stood our coorse. But it presently chan<g>led. Now all this whill we had much rayne. On Satterday being the 5 of September we observed and found our ellivation to be 61 so that in on 6 dayes we got on degree. Now in this time of fowlle wether we had twice sight of a Flemen but never spake withe hire by resin of conttrary winds and over blowing.

On Satterday at nyght towards the morning we had an exstreem gall of wind at the Southe withe muche rayne and continewed all Sunday, but not so voyolently. Now on Sunday morning being the 6 of September we had sight of two sayles of Flemens to leeward, but did not speake withe them. just at twellfe of the clok, the sun shining thowroue the cloud had a great sircle aboute hir, even as hathe the moone in raynie time. Also before the sune was a dogg lik the shining of an other sun. Also for sum two howrs we had scoll of grampuses swiniing by the shipc syde, all at on tyme. God send good sucses. The wind being at the Southwest, whiche God send to chang, for in 6 dayes we gained but on degree, our course being from Northe to Southe. On Sunday night, the wind being Southe and Southe and by West, it having blown hard all day, towards night we had sight of a Hollonder that gave us chace, but our Master would not speak withe him. That night and Mu<n>day we had a marvelus great storme that put us to leeward by our Tuesdayes acount in observation 16 leags only. In trying under our main saylle we had sight of two saylis mor on Sunday, but our Master would neyther speak withe any nor let any speake with him, becas he thinking they cam awat after him it his disgrace. This Tuesday, still the galle continnewing, but yet a littill better, the wind being Southewest and Southe West and by West, we lying sumtlme Southe and sumetime Southesowest, but with mor temperat wether. On Wednesday the 9 of September we had muche rayne and calme, the wind continnewing Southe.

On Thursday mornyng being x of September, thanks be to God, the wind cam to West Norwest. That same day at noone we observed and found ourselvs to be in 60 on minne<t> to the Sutheward. On Fryday the 11 of September we observed and found to be in 59, the wind being East and by Southe, sotherly, fayer and drie wether. On Sunday, being the 13 of September, I withe on oltherl were walking on the wast of the shape, I descryed lande, whiche was presently approved by the wholle company, which land was to the southward of Baffam Ness, part of the cuntrie of Scotland. Oure Master imajened it to be the Frithe, but could no mor tell than any other. This <thus> in on just monthe we had bine witheout sight of land. For the Sunday monthe befor wee had syght of the Northe Cape of the land called the Asumtlon. The wind then coming fayre to the Northeast but ever calme when it was faler and still overblowing against us.

On Sunday nyght, being the 13 of September, having mad the land, the wind being scant, we stood of to seae, whiche nyght the wind rose very tempesteously, continewing all that day withe the best part of the Tewsday. On Tusday nyght the wind cam mor large. On Wednesday the 16 of August <September> we observed and found our selves to be in 54 and 2 8 minnets to the Northward. Having the wind at the Southe West, Westerly, we changing our tack to the Northe west and by West. I know no reson for it. But as I conseved upon the other tack to mak Flamborrow Head, the better to fall withe the coast of Norfolke whiche is lowe land.

On Friday 12 of the clok, after oure standing to the Northeward, we mad Flambrow Head, the 18 of August <September>, standing our course Sothsowest for Yarmouthe, the wind being for the most part Norwest and Northe and Northe and by East, whiche wind we had not had in 3 weeks before. On Satterdaythe 19of AugustISeptemberl thewindwas fayersothat that night we recovered Yarmouthe Road whear we ancored and dyned in the toune.

On Sunday after dinner we weyed ancor and that night, the wind being fayer, we recovered Alboroug. The next morning being Mundaye we weyed and that daye cam to Gravesend. On 'Fewsday the 22 of August <September> we landed at Saynt Katharins neer l,ondon whear, God be thanked, we ended our viage having no on man sick, God be thanked.

Things by me observed.

Imprimis for the sowing of rye the<y> sewe in Jully, ther wheat in June. Theese two grayens growe sume 13 monthes before they be reaped by reson of the snow falling in August or September, and so liethe till the May after. Ther harvest is in August and the begining of September. Ther barly oats and pease they sowe in May the last, and comonly reaped the first of August or the last of July.

I have bin showed oats whyte, very good, whiche wer sowne and mowne and reapet thrashed in 6 weeks.

For ther howses they be made all of long peeces of fire <fir>, being half cut away on the insyd. They be glased withe glas called slude. Ther ruffes be flat almost and cut bordes of a handfull thick layd longwayes donne the ruffe. They have the rinds of birche trees under the bords, which be as broad a yearing calfe or broader and 3 yards long, whiche they lay the edges on ove<r> another and doo defend the wet and rayne and snowe.

Now for ther warmthe they have stooves whearen they heate ther meat, whiche is so well don that it givethe great content to all strangers.

For beds I have scene none of the Ruses, but think for the most part they sleepe upon bedsteads, and most of ther beding is beare skins and other skins. The Inglishe and Leefelanders, I have scene ther beds like to thees borded beds in Ingland of a mean fation.

For ther meat and bread, it is resonable god. They have bothe whear and rie bread and as full as good as most plases of Ingland dooe afford, only they never bake it well and have many foollishe fatyons for ther form of ther loafe. Sum littill ons so littill as on may well eat a loafe a<t> two mouthe full; other great onse, but muche shaped like a horse shooe, but that they be round and a horse shooe is open in the on end.

Also they have a broune kind of rye bread whiche is bothe fine and good. I have seene at the Inglishe house and also in the Duche houses, Leeflanders so good bread as I have yet never seene the like in this cunttrie.

For ther drinks they be meads made of hony and watter and also beere. But ther Ruse beere is wonderfull base of an ill tast. But ther best meade is excelent drinke, mad of ther hony, whiche is the best honny of the world. I have drunke suche beere brewed by a Ruse in the Inglishe house, bothe for strengths and for good tast as I have never betterd it in Ingland.

For the mutton and beefe it was bothe small and lean, ther sheepe muche lik to ther Northfolk sheepe; ther beefes like runts of 4 marks price; ther hens and cokes small and no capons. Ther pidggs they spend wonderfull small, the hogs short, well trused swine. Ther bacon tasts muche after oylle because of the muche fishe ther hogs care.

Ther land, so muche as I have seene, is for ther earable, fine gentill land of light mould like Norfolke land, without stones. Ther maner of plowes like owre but not so neat, muche lik to Essex ploughes withe wheells but the wheells very evill made.

The carts be littill ons, long narrow ons, muche like them of Stafordshir. The Wheells be lowe, mad of two peeces of slit fir timber, being thik wheare the excelltre <axle-tree> goeth thorow, and so deminnishe les till they com to the rime, and follow the cattle w'the muche labor. For ther horses they be well shaped, short knyt, well joynted. Only ther Tarter horses be longe, muche like to the Barbery horses, but of the best use of any in the knowne world. For, as I have heard Captaine Gilbert report, that hathe long lived theare, he had on whiche he hathe rod a wholl day together and at night hathe given him a littill provender and the next day hathe don the like and so for many dayes, and yet he confessethe that he hathe not knowne seldom on of tire.

For ther streets they be paved whirhe goodli timber trees cleft in the midell. For they have not the use of sawing in the land espetiali in that part whear I was, neyther the use of planing withe the plane, but onlie withe a shave, or as sume parts of this kingdom callethe it, a draing knife. And yet yu shall see things don beyond any mans judgment onli withe a hatchet and a chisell and a draing knife and withe muche speed. But that I think is by reson of the softnes of ther woods. The yards of ther howses be all paved withe timber and devided betwin neybor and neybor withe palli<s>adowes of yong timber of 12 or 13 foot highe, the timber being so big, as from post to post they put through a long peece which cume throw a mortis.

Also the cunttrie howses be bult liketo those of the townes and pallisadeed, whiche be don all in on forme, having ther yard rounded withe cowhouses and plases for shepe and horse, being all open to the yardsyd, muche like cloysters beer in Ingland. Ther ploughes and carts amongst ther cattell to make partission an<d> over liethe the hay. For the most part they b<e> quadrand and on comer is the dw<e>lling-howse and on syd the barn whiche is comonly the front.

Farther it is to be observed that all thees cuntrie howses stand on littill hills, whiche hathe bin raysed by art at the first; and also without the pallisado or fence of enclosure, ther stands the bodyes of timber trees sume 7 or 8 foot highe, and from the enclosure sum 16 foot, and on from an other 7 or 8 foot, whiche they say is to defend the isse whiche at the first thawing, if it be withe rayne, makethe a very great flud. Ther lyethe by the rivers syd many great stones, some of halfe a cart load and mor, whiche I demanded on to aske how they cam thear, the land being witheout, being moorishe toward the watters syd. And they tould our interpreter that they wer brought ought out of the land by the isse.

Now for thos trees and woods and that I have seene. In the cunttrie, as 5 parts is woods and unprofitable grounds, I have seene 4 sorts of fir trees an birche trees of a great bignes, whiche in the spring tyme they make insistion for the juce to drinke, whiche they say is a fine coolle kind of drink, whiche lastethe the most part of May and the beginning of June. Also they have littill treese that they make hoops of, whiche the Inglishe saye they be wilde cheryes, but I canot beleeve it is of that kind. But is lik a chery in leafe and bearethe a bery les than our Searvis bery, sumwhat blackishe, but was not ripe at my being theare. The wood is wondros pliant and if a twig chance to tuche the ground it will take roote, as I have scene in many places. I took up of them in July an brought them over a plant or two, whiche I hope will growe, for all the unfit season of the yeare they be very willing to grow. Now for the abundance of hoopes that ther is mad, I may imagin, for owr coopers, for ther great caske of caveare, and the Flemins, Holionders and Hamburgers and Russes, spend suche abundance. Yet our people bring them away for the hooping of the cask in Greenland, and by the report of the coopers, they be the best hoops in the world, for they say in a wholl day they break not on.

I have also seene shrubs of divers kinds.

As Ribes, or, as we call them, currants, whir, red and black, far greatter than ever I have seen in this cuntrie.

Also roses, single, in a great abundance, in my estemation 4 or 5 acars together. They be single and muche like oure sinoment <cinnamon> rose; and who have the sence of smelling say they be marvelus sweete. I hop they will bothe growe and beare heere for amongst many that I brought hom withe the roses upon them, yet sume on may grow.

For p<I>ants: helebros albus, enoug to load a shipe, whiche the Ruses call camaritza.

Also angellica, great stor; and lisimachia, penttafyllon maior, geranium flore serulie, saxifrag, sorrell half the heyght of a man.

Also rosasollis I found theare.

3 or 4 sorts of whorts, red ons and two sorts of blewe ons. And also on sort of plant bearing his frut like hedge mercury, which made a very fine showe, having 3 leaves on the tope of every stake, having in every leafe a berry about the bignes of a hawe, all the 3 berryes growing close together, of a finener bright red than a hawe, whiche I took up many roots. Yet am afra'd that non held becase, at our being on ground, we staved most of oure frese watter and so wear faint to watter withe salt watter, but was mad beleeve it was freshe, whiche that plant having but a long whir thin root, littill biger then a small couche gras. And the Boys in the ship, befor I pe<r>seved it, eat of the berries, except sume of them com up amongst the earthe by chance. I found this plant to growe in Rose Iland. Thear I found pinks growing natturall of the best sort we have heere in Ingland, withe the eges of the leaves deeplie cut or jaged very finely. I also sawe straberyes to be sould, but could never get of the plants, but the beryes wear 3 times at my Lords table. But they wer in nothing differing from ours, but only les, whiche mad me that I did not so muche seek after them. But for the curants and all other things that I found, being they wear so muche biger than ours was, as I could gather, by the vygor of the somer, which is so quick that when a thinge is in blosom it never felle the could tyll it is a perfect frute. Also I found a bery growing lowe at my first landing whic, in bery, was muche lik a strabery but of an amber coller. The people eate it fo<r> a medsin against the skurvi. The leaves be much lik our avince and of suche a greene. I dried sume of the beryes to get seede whearof of I have sent par<t> to Robiens of Parris.

All thes things I have scene, but by report They have most sorts of trees that we have in England up in the contrie, bothe oake, elme and ashe, aple, peare and cheryes, but the frut les and not so plesant. This have bin tould me and amongst the rest of a plant that growethe upon the Volga, whiche they call Gods tree, whose leaves be muche lik to fennell. But the<y> report it Is pasing sweet and of great vertues. Also I have bin tould that thear growethe in the land bothe tylipes and narsisus. By a Brabander I was tould it thoug, by his name, I should rather think him a Hollander. His name is Jonson and hathe a house at Archangell. He may be eyther, for he always dru<n>ke once in the day.

Now for ther navegablenes: it is of 3 sorts. They use great lyters or barges or keches, for they be sume of them that will cary 3 or 4 score tuns or loads. They goe withe crose saylis and the masts made all of on peece like Gravesend Barge; and, at the uper end, they have cote thorowe a thin bord of 3 quarters of a yard long sume shape or liknes, sume to a foulle and sume to a dragon or any other thing that ther fancy leads them two. And at the end of the wood worke they have fastned suine linen or thin stuffe, comonly fringed, and most of them have eyther hanks, bells or horsbells hanging theron that maks a noyse withe the winde. For ther hulls of theese vessells they be without naylls of iron or trunelis of wood, for they be sowne together withe rinds of trees and calked in the seames withe fine mosse and rosinned and tared, but dresed rosen coller. Ther fation muche like as if on would tak two litters and clap on upon an other, none being open aloft, but they go in on the syd where they tak the loading in. The top or upper part is under the planks lined withe the rind of birche trees to defen<d> watter. Theese great vessells they call loddes. They sayll all or els set them of withe long polls. The ruder of on of theese is sumtims 10 foot long behind the vessell and of a great thlknes and breathe, gyded by a long tiller within bord. I have scene at the lancheing of on of thees 3<0> men prising withe leavers to get them of and making a noyse as if all the wholl toune had bin together by the ears. And for ther labor I durst have bin on of the 6 Inglishe that should have done more than those 30. Nowe they ly on ground at every port they com to.

They comonli never goe without a faire wind, espetyally the Laps or Laplanders, for if the Inglish se them coming they still curse them knowing the wind will chang and be in ther poops.

They have also a littill second kind of boate sumwhat les than our wheryes in the river of Thames, whiche they call Dingo boats. They will carry sume 8 or 9 persons. Thees most of the Mossicks be furnished withe to bring the hogs and sheepe and fishe and hense and wild foulle to market, whiche they have in great abundance. This boat is mad of 4 or 3 deall bords finely cleft and then hewed, but is for depthe comonly never but two bords, on above an other, sowne together withe rinds of trees. They be very light so that two mene will take on of them and cary them from highwatter mark to lowe eyther way as it pleasethe them. They sume time will rowe in on of theese boats 3 payre of s<c>uils, the sculls being about 5 or 6 foot long, the blad being the longest part but not as ours be in Ingland, but be round almost halfe the way, and the other end dothe bear his breadthe equall to the end. The<y> go very swift, on of the rowers sitting rit behind the other and keep stroke, bu<t> if on sturs they be redy to tumble over by reson of the narrownenes of them.

They have yet a third kind <of> boat that be mad all of on tree of an increddable bredthe and bignes, for many of thees boat be 25or 30 foote long and longer, sume 7 foote broad. The keells of these boat be almost round, luttill tapard. They heyten the syds of the<m> withe strong hewed deall plancks and bayll theme all over from end to end withe hoops of this fornamed wild cherry tree, as the Inglishe calls it, and cover it withe birche rinds and sumtims withe sealls skins, having of those abundance. For withe those boats they hunt and persue them and fishe for them, for they cache abundance, whiche may appeere by the great store of oylle that they ther make, wh<i>che the Holionders ther by, whiche stinkethe so filthily that it is redy to poyson all those that go by. But being deprived of that sence it ofended me not. The skins I have seene theme lye by, blowne out like a blader, the heare syd inward. I think it was to get the grease out or oyle that would spoyle the skine, for in ther taning of them they be very curfull to get the oyle cleere oute, for they mak great store of sellers of bottells for to keep hot watters. They sell most of them to the Duch and the Duche paints them within and puts the iron worke to them and bring them ther owne againe to sell.

They have yet a forthe kind of boats or litters whiche be flat bottomed of wonderfull bignes for bredthe. They be fationed alnomost ovall. The be littill above 3 foot deepe, but he mad of suche strengths that I have never sene biger timber in any shape for the myty knees and jyces whiche ly crose. On of theese will load the best shipe that ther was in the harbour at twice going abord. The name I have forgotten. The<y> <are> open and subject to wet, otherwis they weare good for the East Indian Company.

They have yet a fift sort, suche as the great persons of the land have to pas up and donne the river. They be of divers bigneses, sume greatter, sum lesser. They be mad of two sort. The on have a fine littill borded house in the poope or after part. Thees be of the leser sort. The greater sort have houses in the midell, prettili bult with pr<e>tti windowes in them. So bothe sorts have. But the state of <them> is, when any on great person is in them, they must then be covered, all that part that is lik a house, withe eyther red, blewe or greene, but the greattest all red, whiche I judge is of greatest state.





A Voyage of Embassy



A voyage of embassy undertaken by the Right Honorable Sir Dudlie Digees in the year 1618, being attended on with 6 gentlemen which bear the name of the Kings Gentlemen, whose names be here noted - one Mr Nowell, brother to the Lord Nowell, Mr Thomas Finche, Mr Woodward, Mr Cooke, Mr Fante & Mr Henry Wyeld, with every one of them their man. Other followers one Briggas, Interpreter; Mr Jams, an Oxford man, his Chaplin; one Mr Leake, his Secretary; with 3 Scots, one Captain Gilbert and his son, with one Car; also Mr Mathew De Questers son of Filpot Lane in London. The rest his own retennat some 13, whereof note one Jonns and Coplie, Wustershir men; Mr Swanli of Limhouse, Master of the good ship called the Dianna of Newcastell; Mr Nelson, part owner of Newecastell.

The 3 of June 1618 being Wednesday we weighed anchor at Gravesend and fell down to Tilberry Hope. The Thursday after we, after dinner, weighed and went to lee with a calm wind, the wind being West. On Friday being the 5 date we anchored short of the Spits. But the wind changing and blowing hard we weighed and put roomer <tacked> for Quinborrow <Queenborough>, where we lay 2 nights and one day with a contrary wind. On Monday, being the 8 of June, at 4 of the clock in the morning we weighed anchor with a Southwest wind which continued 48 hours but somewhat calm. On Wednesday morning the wind changed to the West Norwest and so continued over blowing till Saturday the 12 of June, the wind contrary, where all our landmen fell sick, and my Lord himself for 4 days very sick. On Saturday towards night the wind somewhat ceased. On Sunday the 14 day there came up with us a man of war of Encusan, one of the Stars men of war, which hailing us gave each other the courtesy of the sea and so parted, we standing in for the land. On Sunday night made the land of the Bishopbrick of Durram. On Monday and Mund night we tided up with the shore and Tuesday all day, to recover the Tinmouthe haven to relieve our sick men with fresh victuals from Newecastell, the wind all this while being just in our teethe. I must not omit the great fleet of Hollonders that lay at anchor in the sea, which were to our thinking were 100 and 50 sails, all fishing for cod and somemer herring.

On Sunday being the 14 day we had sight of town 7 leagues to the South of Newecastell. Monday and Tuesday we beat up and down to recover Newcastell, but could not. On Wednesday being the 17th day my Lord caused the boat to be hoysed out to set his people on shore and my self and one other to go to Newchatell for make provisions of beef and muttons with many other necessaries, where I bought 11 salmons for 5s. the couple and some for 4s. the couple, which at London would have been worth 2 li 10s. the couple. Also we went to sup at the best ordinary in the town with many dishes. Our wine being paid for came but to 8d. the piece, which in London I think 2s. the piece would have hardly matched it. On Thursday we returned to the ship with some 17 lis worth of provision, the wind then being fair. But within an hour after the wind changed and came full in our teeth, that on the next morning the wind being so full in our teeth we determined with the counsel of our Vice-admiral to put into the harbor. But my Lord and myself most against it, we continued without. On Friday in the afternoons the wind came to the East and be North, so we claud it off to sea and avoided the former fear. Sir Georg Selbe sent to my Lord Ambassador for a present 2 salmons and one hogshead of beer. The Mayor of Newcastell the day before sent him one salmon, using his gentlemen with much courtesy, being ashore at Shialds 6 miles short of Newcastell, his Lordship keeping aboard all the while.

On Thursday being the 19 of June about 4 of the clock in the afternoons we weighed anchor before Tinmouthe Castell, the wind being West and by South, but slack, which we passed that night. But on Friday the wind scanted veered ahead to the Northwest, where we lay Northeast away with a leeward way, the wind increasing and changing more North. The Saturday the wind began to rise, on Sunday to increase, being full in our teeth. Monday and Tuesday still the storm continuing till Thursday morning. In all this while we were constrained to go under our two courses. On Wednesday the wind changed West. In which 4 days my Lord Ambassador was extreme sick, in so much that all they in the ship made question of his life, partly by sea sickness and partly by over much cholor, that he was persuaded to be set on land or not to live. Being just 40 leagues from the Northern part of Scotland and 40 from the coast of Norway, and in 58 and better in the latitude, the wind then changed to the West, which Scotland we could not recover, then to the Southeast Bar Elsenoor, which was the next place, which was 110 leagues from us, the wind still coming more calm and more larg <free>, that we persuaded him to hold on his course. And on Thursday his lordship, after the calm, received some meat, which in 4 days before he had refused. On the Friday morning being the 26 of June he had a little sleep, the Great God be blessed for it.

Even beyond our hopes the wind and sea was calm and fair which before that time had been still cross. Now on Tuesday and Wednesday we had sight of 4 sail to windward of us, to the Eastward of us, and on the morrow we lost them not speaking with them. On Wednesday we had sight of one sail to the westward, standing our course, but spake not with it. Now on this present Friday the 26 the wind is fair and our sick people well recovered. God continue them both, health and wind. Now being in 60 degrees, by the reason of my Lord's sickness I watched and had no night. This was the first place where darkness ceases for the night. There you might have wrought or wrote at midnight. The Saturday the wind fair but dead; came Sunday and Monday, being the 28 and 29 of June, the wind scant but a fine gale at the East and by North.

On Saint Peter's day on the morning my Lord sent the Russian Ambassador fresh victuals: one quarter of mutton, half a little porker, and 3 live pullet, their Lent being but then ended. Also at New Castell my Lord sent him two small salmons and 9 gallons of Canary Sack. The courtesies hath passed a yet without requittal.

Also on Monday night the came a strange bird aboard our ship, which was taken alive and put to my custody, but died within two days after being 60 leagues from the shore, whose like I yet never saw, whose case I have reserved. This was in 66 degrees in the latitude. On Tuesday night the wind came fair, being the first of July, in 6 7 or a little short, where the sun did show some small part of his body all the night. At 65 we laid the light of the moon being so far to the Southward of us.

On Friday the 3 of July a man of Mr Decrass came aboard of us to take counsel about sending away the pinnace for Greenland, the year being so far spent. As they thought the Russes being landed, the time of the year would be too far spent, where it was decreed that she should go one of hir intended voyage. This man's name was Mr Spyke who was made welcome according to the manner of the sea. My Lord sent back with him two bottles of his wine, one of sack and one of claret, even present fit for such people, yet too great as the time required by reason of our long voyage. Now from Monday the 29 of June to Friday night the 3 of July the wind hath been very fair at the South and Southwest, which God continue, we lying our course Northeast.

On Saturday the 4 of July the pinnace parted with us, we then standing our course East and East and by South, the pinnace standing away from us North and by East. That night at 12 of the clock we saw the sun shine about an hour high just North, which we had not sene 4 days before nor in two days after, being ever an extreme fog.

On the Sunday the 5 of July we saw many whales, some hard by the ship. On the Monday morning being an extreme fog our Master thought he had seen land, which made him alter a point or two of his compass to the North. Thus have we been without the light of sun 5 days, being in the height of the Cape, which as we think we were 72 and better to the North.

On Monday morning we had sight of the North Cape, which is all covered with snow, where we felt the air very cold, the land being high land, all islands, with many bays amongst the land.

On the Tuesday morning very early we came up with one of the King of Denmarks men of war, who demanded of us to come aboard to show our pass, but we answered that our boat was stowed, we could not; besides we had an Inglishe Ambassador aboard, which he presently desisted from his demand. Our consort also told him in like sort that he had a Rus Ambassador aboard. Also in his company we found the Company's other ship who had been from hir port from Hamborow 3 weeks with other two in his company, also two Hollanders, who he caused their boats to come aboard. We at that time had been out of Ingland 5 weeks lacking a day. This man of war lay to waft or water the fishermen that fish upon that coast of Wardhouse <Vardohuus>, where the King hath a castle with great command of Lapland, where many Danes live with the Laps which, if I might have the whole kingdom to be bound to live there, I had rather be a porter in London, for the snow is never of the ground wholly, but lies in great packs continually. There is no shadow for the sun shineth there continually when it is no fogs which most times it is. The Kings man of war gave us a piece of gun, which we answered with another; and our Vice admiral gave him 3. And so for that time parted, being now short of Wardhouse 3 leagues, standing our course Southeast, the wind at the West, being Inglishe and strangers 7 sails bound for Archangell.

Now from the time before named on the eleventh of July we have had a fair wind, sometimes going Southeast and sometimes South and sometimes Southwest, all being our course. This eleventh day we had a small boat of that country of the Cros Island that brought his boat laden with salmons 3 days salted. My Lord bought on for 4s. Od. money, a very great one. Now after we were so far as Cross Island the snow began to abate and the nature of the coast to change from russet to a greener color, the inland being full of shrubby trees, and further of we might preserve great woods, but all this way no kind of grain. Now to speak of the boat and the men. The men one of them was a man about 50 years with one eye, hard favored. The younger man was about 25 years, well favored and well limbed, and both clad in leather, with the skins of sheep with the furs side inwards, both having crucifixes about the necks very artfully made. I have seen many in Ingland of their profession worse fashioned. Their boat was small, very neatly made, like to the manner of Holland scuts.

On Sunday being the 13 of July the wind being contrary, being some 6 leagues short of Foxnose, we had sight of a great white fish twice so great as a porpoise, being all over as whire as snow, which they say is a great destroyer of the salmons.

On the Monday the 13 o f July, their were many small birds came aboard the shape, being some 3 leagues from the shore. I have three of their skins which were caught by my self and the rest of the company. They did much resemble the manner of our Inglishe linnets but far lesser.

On Tuesday the 14 of July wee came to the bar, where we spent one day because it was calm. On the Wednesday we went over the bar having but one foot water more than the ship drew.

On the Thursday the 16 day we came into the harbor but before we came half the way the soldiers came to salute their own Ambassadors, but not us. But in the half way passage in the river the Grand Prestave saluted my Lord with many boats full of soldiers, who himself was entertained in the cabin with a banquet of sweetmeats, the agent and the rest of the Inglishe merchants having had the like entertainment just before his coming. Where at his departure we gave 3 pieces of ordnance, and he us his small shot, which was but poorly performed, their pieces being hardly so good as our callivers, neither had the soldiers any expertness like to these in these parts. Farther at our first entrance over the bar into the river we received from the agent one good bullock, 2 sheep, 10 hens, 2 pheasants, 6 partridges, none like the Inglishe. That night came aboard of our ship a boat of Sammoyets, a miserable people of small growth. In my judgment is that people whom the fiction is feigned of that should have no heads, for they have short necks and commonly wear their clothes over head and shoulders. They use bows and arrows. The men and women be hardly known one from the other because they all wear clothes like men and be all clad in skins of beasts packed very curiously together, stockings and all. They kill most of the Lothi deer that the hides be brought. They be extreme beggars not to be denied.

Farther that night we weighed anchor by reason of the two floods. The first is but 2 hours and then a swift ebb; and then, presently after two hours, a long flood like ours. In that place where we anchored I desired to have the boat to go on shore which was hard by, where, when we were land, we found many sorts of berries, one sort like our strawberries but of another fashion of leaf. I have brought some of them home to show with such variety of moss and shrubs, all bearing fruit, such as I have never seen the like. Also at our first landing we found a piece of a snake skin. Also in that same place we sprung 5 fowls such as all those in the place where we landed hardly knew, the old ones were great to the bigness of a pheasant, the wings whire, the bodies green, the tail blue or dove color. I would have given 5s. for one of their skins. Now Thursday night we moored our ship before the Inglishe house. On Friday we went on shore with all the show we could make, being fetched with the Prestave and the rest of his band. The houses that were taken up for my Lords lodging were 3 several men, 2 Dutche and one Wilkinson a Inglishe man. They be all built of whole trees laid on one the top of the other, very strong with fair rooms, packed between the hollows with wood moss. Having but poor bedsteads, content to lay our body on the ground.

On Monday I had one of the Emperor's boats to carry me from island to island to see what things grow upon them, where I found single roses wondrous sweet with many other things which I mean to bring with me, where I observed the baseness of the people. For we had a commander with us who was glad to be partaker of coarse cares, as we there could get, which was sour cream and oatmeal pasties very poorly made, which to them was a great banquet.

The 5 of August 1618 we set sail for Ingland from the point a mile from the town. That night we came to an anchor under Rose Island, where I and divers others went on shore, where there was a little soldiers' house poorly guarded with some 10 men, where we bought grass for our live sheep, where I gathered of all such things as I could find there growing, which were 4 sorts of berries, which I brought away with me of every sort. This land is low land all over but where the house stands, and that place is a long bank of dry whire sand, the land being either woods or meadow, but seldom either mown or fed.

The 6 of August we weighed anchor, the wind being fair, and went. For the bar is but 11 foot water and our ship drew 10 and a half, the tide being then neap, where we came on and sat 6 or 8 hours to our great grief, a flawe <sudden gust of wind> presently rising, which if it had continued the ship must needs have perished. But, thanks be to God, the next tide we came off without any harm. The next day we were becalmed. The 8 day in the morning we made Cros Island, the wind being fair but small and much rain, insomuch that all the decks were leak, which for my own part I felt for it rained down through all my clothes and beds to the spoil of them all. The 8 day at night we met with one of the Stars men of war that the Russian Ambassador came home in of Cape Grace. From the 8 to the 10 contrary winds. From the 10 to the 13 extreme fogs, so that in 4 or 5 days we went but 10 leagues ahead. Of Cape Gallant we met with the race of a tide; the fog being extreme we were afraid of being brought upon a rock. But thanks be to God it proved better.

The 14 day being Friday, dead calm, we made a sail which we thought had been but a Dingo boat, which when we were come up with her it was a great Flemin, but could not speak with her. That day we saw many whales, where the owner of the ship saw one chased with a thresher and called me to see it, but they rose no more. The next day being Saturday wee had a great storm, the wind being at East. On Sunday towards night the storm ceased and the wind changed West. That night we made the North Cape. On Monday it was calm with much fog, to which that place is much subject.

In the night the wind rose. On Tuesday the wind blew hard all day at the North and by West, so that the Master feared the making the way good, we going under both our corses with rain and snow.

On Tuesday the 18 of August we lay West and West and by North, the wind being scant. On Wednesday we went roomer 25 leagues. On Thursday we stood our course. On Friday and Saturday we had a fair wind. On Saturday at noon the Master observed and found his height to be 68 to the North and in the Bay of Ros. On the Friday night we had 3 hours night, which we had not had since the going outward from the height 66, which was all day 8 weeks together with us.

On Sunday, Monday, Tuesday the wind contrary. On Wednesday we had sight of a sail. On Thursday we made her more perfectly close by a wind, the wind being for the most part south. We made two sails, but lost them presently by reason of a fog. On Friday morning being the 23 of August the wind came fair to the Northeast and continued so 5 watches. That night it changed, where they observed and found themselves in 64. On Saturday midnight the wind changed East and so continued all that day with a great storm. At night it changed. On Monday the last of August we observed and found them in the latitude of 62 degrees, the wind directly against them.

On Tuesday and Wednesday southerly winds contrary. On Thursday the South and by East very violently, that the storm was great 18 hours against us, that we were constrained to try with our main course shipping some seas. On Thursday night the wind calmed. On Friday it veered westerly. Then we stood our course. But it presently changed. Now all this while we had much rain. On Saturday being the 5 of September we observed and found our elevation to be 61 so that in on 6 days we got one degree. Now in this time of foul weather we had twice sight of a Flemen but never spake with her by reason of contrary winds and over blowing.

On Saturday at night towards the morning we had an extreme gale of wind at the South with much rain and continued all Sunday, but not so violently. Now on Sunday morning being the 6 of September we had sight of two sails of Flemens to leeward, but did not speak with them. Just at twelve of the clock, the sun shining through the cloud had a great circle about it, even as hath the moon in rainy time. Also before the sun was a dog like the shining of an other sun. Also for some two hours we had scoll of grampuses swimming by the ship's side, all at one time. God send good success. The wind being at the Southwest, which God send to change, for in 6 days we gained but one degree, our course being from North to South. On Sunday night, the wind being South and South and by West, it having blown hard all day, towards night we had sight of a Hollonder that gave us chase, but our Master would not speak with him. That night and Monday we had a marvelous great storm that put us to leeward by our Tuesday's account in observation 16 leagues only. In trying under our main sail we had sight of two sails more on Sunday, but our Master would neither speak with any nor let any speak with him, because he thinking they came away after him it his disgrace. This Tuesday, still the gale continuing, but yet a little better, the wind being Southwest and South West and by West, we lying sometime South and sometime Southsowest, but with more temperate weather. On Wednesday the 9 of September we had much rain and calm, the wind continuing South.

On Thursday morning being x of September, thanks be to God, the wind came to West Norwest. That same day at noon we observed and found ourselves to be in 60 one minute to the Southward. On Friday the 11 of September we observed and found to be in 59, the wind being East and by South, southerly, fair and dry weather. On Sunday, being the 13 of September, I with one other were walking on the waist of the ship, I descried land, which was presently approved by the whole company, which land was to the southward of Baffam Ness, part of the country of Scotland. Our Master imagined it to be the Frithe, but could no more tell than any other. This <thus> in one just month we had been without sight of land. For the Sunday month before we had sight of the North Cape of the land called the Asometlon. The wind then coming faire to the Northeast but ever calm when it was fair and still overblowing against us.

On Sunday night, being the 13 of September, having made the land, the wind being scant, we stood off to sea, which night the wind rose very tempestuously, continuing all that day with the best part of the Tuesday. On Tuesday night the wind came mor large. On Wednesday the 16 of August <September> we observed and found ourselves to be in 54 and 2 8 minutes to the Northward. Having the wind at the South West, Westerly, we changing our tack to the North west and by West. I know no reason for it. But as I conceived upon the other tack to make Flamborrow Head, the better to fall with the coast of Norfolke which is low land.

On Friday 12 of the clock, after our standing to the Northward, we made Flambrow Head, the 18 of August <September>, standing our course South-southwest for Yarmouthe, the wind being for the most part Norwest and North and North and by East, which wind we had not had in 3 weeks before. On Saturday the 19 of August <September> the wind was fair so that that night we recovered Yarmouthe Road where we anchored and dined in the town.

On Sunday after dinner we weighed anchor and that night, the wind being fair, we recovered Alboroug. The next morning being Monday we weighed and that day came to Gravesend. On Tuesday the 22 of August <September> we landed at Saint Katharins near London where, God be thanked, we ended our voyage having no one man sick, God be thanked.

Things by me observed.

Imprimis for the sowing of rye they sow in July, their wheat in June. These two grains grow some 13 months before they be reaped by reason of the snow falling in August or September, and so lied till the May after. Their harvest is in August and the beginning of September. Their barley oats and peas they sow in May the last, and commonly reaped the first of August or the last of July.

I have been showed oats white, very good, which were sown and mown and reaped thrashed in 6 weeks.

For their houses they be made all of long pieces of fir, being half cut away on the inside. They be glazed with glass called slude. Their ruffs be flat almost and cut boards of a handful thick laid longwise down the ruff. They have the rinds of birch trees under the boards, which be as broad a yearling calf or broader and 3 yards long, which they lay the edges one over another and do defend the wet and rain and snow.

Now for their warmth they have stoves wherein they heat their meat, which is so well done that it giveth great content to all strangers.

For beds I have seen none of the Ruses, but think for the most part they sleep upon bedsteads, and most of their bedding is bear skins and other skins. The Inglishe and Leefelanders, I have scene their beds like to these boarded beds in Ingland of a mean fashion.

For their meat and bread, it is reasonable good. They have both wheat and rye bread and as full as good as most places of Ingland do afford, only they never bake it well and have many foolish fashions for their form of their loaf. Some little ones so little as one may well eat a loaf at two mouth full; other great ones, but much shaped like a horse shoe, but that they be round and a horse shoe is open in the one end.

Also they have a brown kind of rye bread which is both fine and good. I have seen at the Inglishe house and also in the Dutche houses, Leeflanders so good bread as I have yet never seen the like in this country.

For their drinks they be meads made of honey and water and also beer. But their Ruse beer is wonderful base of an ill taste. But their best mead is excellent drink, made of their honey, which is the best honey of the world. I have drunk such beer brewed by a Ruse in the Inglishe house, both for strengths and for good taste as I have never bettered it in Ingland.

For the mutton and beef it was both small and lean, their sheep much like to their Northfolk sheep; their beeves like runts of 4 marks price; their hens and cocks small and no capons. Their pigs they spend wonderful small, the hogs short, well trused swine. Their bacon tastes much after oil because of the much fish their hogs care.

Their land, so much as I have seen, is for their earable, fine gentle land of light mold like Norfolke land, without stones. Their manner of plows like ours but not so neat, much like to Essex ploughs with wheels but the wheels very evil made.

The carts be little ones, long narrow ones, much like them of Stafordshir. The Wheels be low, made of two pieces of slit fir timber, being thick where the excelltre <axle-tree> goeth through, and so diminish less till they come to the rime, and follow the cattle with much labor. For their horses they be well shaped, short knit, well jointed. Only their Tarter horses be long, much like to the Barberry horses, but of the best use of any in the known world. For, as I have heard Captain Gilbert report, that hath long lived there, he had one which he hath rode a whole day together and at night hath given him a little provender and the next day hath don the like and so for many days, and yet he confesseth that he hath not known seldom one of tire.

For their streets they be paved with goodly timber trees cleft in the middle. For they have not the use of sawing in the land especially in that part where I was, neither the use of planing with the plane, but only with a shave, or as some parts of this kingdom calleth it, a drawing knife. And yet you shall see things done beyond any man's judgment only with a hatchet and a chisel and a drawing knife and with much speed. But that I think is by reason of the softness of their woods. The yards of their houses be all paved with timber and divided between neighbor and neighbor with palisades of young timber of 12 or 13 foot high, the timber being so big, as from post to post they put through a long piece which come through a mortis.

Also the country houses be built liketo those of the towns and palisaded, which be done all in one form, having their yard rounded with cowhouses and places for sheep and horse, being all open to the yardside, much like cloisters be in Ingland. Their ploughs and carts amongst their cattle to make partition and over lieth the hay. For the most part they be quadrand and one corner is the dwelling-house and one side the barn which is commonly the front.

Farther it is to be observed that all these country houses stand on little hills, which hath been raised by art at the first; and also without the palisade or fence of enclosure, their stands the bodies of timber trees some 7 or 8 foot high, and from the enclosure some 16 foot, and on from an other 7 or 8 foot, which they say is to defend the ice which at the first thawing, if it be with rain, maketh a very great flood. There lies by the river's side many great stones, some of half a cart load and more, which I demanded on to ask how they came there, the land being without, being moorish toward the waters side. And they told our interpreter that they were brought ought out of the land by the ice.

Now for those trees and woods and that I have seen. In the country, as 5 parts is woods and unprofitable grounds, I have seen 4 sorts of fir trees and birch trees of a great bigness, which in the spring time they make incision for the juice to drink, which they say is a fine cool kind of drink, which lasteth the most part of May and the beginning of June. Also they have little trees that they make hoops of, which the Inglishe say they be wilde cherries, but I cannot believe it is of that kind. But is like a cherry in leaf and beareth a berry less than our Service berry, somewhat blackish, but was not ripe at my being there. The wood is wondrous pliant and if a twig chance to touch the ground it will take root, as I have seen in many places. I took up of them in July and brought them over a plant or two, which I hope will grow, for all the unfit season of the year they be very willing to grow. Now for the abundance of hoops that there is made, I may imagine, for our coopers, for their great cask of caviar, and the Flemins, Holionders and Hamburgers and Russes, spend such abundance. Yet our people bring them away for the hooping of the cask in Greenland, and by the report of the coopers, they be the best hoops in the world, for they say in a whole day they break not one.

I have also seen shrubs of divers kinds.

As Ribes, or, as we call them, currants, white, red and black, far greater than ever I have seen in this country.

Also roses, single, in a great abundance, in my estimation 4 or 5 acres together. They be single and much like our cinnamon rose; and who have the sense of smelling say they be marvelous sweet. I hope they will both grow and bear here for amongst many that I brought home with the roses upon them, yet some one may grow.

For plants: helebros albus, enough to load a ship, which the Ruses call camaritza.

Also angelica, great store; and lisimachia, penttafyllon maior, geranium flore serulie, saxifrage, sorrel half the height of a man.

Also rosasollis I found there.

3 or 4 sorts of whorts, red ones and two sorts of blue ones. And also one sort of plant bearing his fruit like hedge mercury, which made a very fine show, having 3 leaves on the top of every stake, having in every leaf a berry about the bigness of a haw, all the 3 berries growing close together, of a finer bright red than a haw, which I took up many roots. Yet am afraid that none held because, at our being on ground, we staved most of our fresh water and so were feigned to water with salt water, but was made believe it was fresh, which that plant having but a long white thin root, little bigger then a small couch gras. And the Boys in the ship, before I preserved it, eat of the berries, except some of them come up amongst the earth by chance. I found this plant to grow in Rose Island. There I found pinks growing natural of the best sort we have here in Ingland, with the edges of the leaves deeply cut or jagged very finely. I also saw strawberries to be sold, but could never get of the plants, but the berries were 3 times at my Lords table. But they were in nothing differing from ours, but only less, which made me that I did not so much seek after them. But for the currants and all other things that I found, being they wear so much bigger than ours was, as I could gather, by the vigor of the summer, which is so quick that when a thing is in blossom it never fell the could till it is a perfect fruit. Also I found a berry growing low at my first landing which, in berry, was much like a strawberry but of an amber color. The people eat it for a medicine against the scurvy. The leaves be much like our avens and of such a green. I dried some of the berries to get seed whereof of I have sent part to Robiens of Parris.

All these things I have seen, but by report They have most sorts of trees that we have in England up in the country, both oak, elm and ash, apple, pear and cherries, but the fruit less and not so pleasant. This have been told me and amongst the rest of a plant that groweth upon the Volga, which they call Gods tree, whose leaves be much like to fennel. But they report it is passing sweet and of great virtues. Also I have been told that there groweth in the land both tulips and narcissus. By a Brabander I was told it though, by his name, I should rather think him a Hollander. His name is Jonson and hath a house at Archangell. He may be either, for he always drunken once in the day.

Now for their navigableness: it is of 3 sorts. They use great lighters or barges or ketches, for they be some of them that will carry 3 or 4 score tuns or loads. They go with cross sails and the masts made all of one piece like Gravesend Barge; and, at the upper end, they have cut through a thin board of 3 quarters of a yard long some shape or likeness, some to a fowl and some to a dragon or any other thing that their fancy leads them to. And at the end of the wood work they have fastened suine linen or thin stuff, commonly fringed, and most of them have either hanks, bells or horsebells hanging thereon that makes a noise with the wind. For their hulls of these vessels they be without nails of iron or trunelis of wood, for they be sewn together with rinds of trees and calked in the seams with fine moss and rosined and tarred, but dressed rosen color. Their fashion much like as if one would take two litters and clap one upon an other, none being open aloft, but they go in on the side where they take the loading in. The top or upper part is under the planks lined with the rind of birch trees to defend water. These great vessels they call loddes. They sail all or else set them of with long polls. The rudder of one of these is sometimes 10 foot long behind the vessel and of a great thickness and breathe, guided by a long tiller within board. I have sene at the launching of one of these 30 men prizing with levers to get them of and making a noise as if all the whole town had been together by the ears. And for their labor I durst have been one of the 6 Inglishe that should have done more than those 30. Now they lie on ground at every port they come to.

They commonly never go without a fair wind, especially the Laps or Laplanders, for if the Inglish see them coming they still curse them knowing the wind will change and be in their poops.

They have also a little second kind of boat somewhat less than our whereas in the river of Thames, which they call Dingo boats. They will carry some 8 or 9 persons. These most of the Mossicks be furnished with to bring the hogs and sheep and fish and hens and wild fowl to market, which they have in great abundance. This boat is made of 4 or 3 deal boards finely cleft and then hewed, but is for depth commonly never but two boards, one above an other, sown together with rinds of trees. They be very light so that two men will take one of them and carry them from highwater mark to low either way as it pleaseth them. They some time will row in one of these boats 3 pair of sculls, the sculls being about 5 or 6 foot long, the blade being the longest part but not as ours be in Ingland, but be round almost half the way, and the other end doth bear his breadth equal to the end. They go very swift, one of the rowers sitting right behind the other and keep stroke, but if one sturs they be ready to tumble over by reason of the narrowness of them.

They have yet a third kind of boat that be made all of one tree of an incredible breadth and bigness, for many of these boat be 25 or 30 foot long and longer, some 7 foot broad. The keels of these boat be almost round, little tapered. They heighten the sides of them with strong hewed deal planks and bail them all over from end to end with hoops of this forenamed wild cherry tree, as the Inglishe calls it, and cover it with birch rinds and sometimes with seals' skins, having of those abundance. For with those boats they hunt and pursue them and fish for them, for they catch abundance, which may appear by the great store of oil that they there make, which the Holionders there by, which stinketh so filthily that it is ready to poison all those that go by. But being deprived of that sense it offended me not. The skins I have seen them lie by, blown out like a bladder, the hair side inward. I think it was to get the grease out or oil that would spoil the skin, for in their tanning of them they be very careful to get the oil clear out, for they make great store of sellers of bottles for to keep hot water. They sell most of them to the Dutch and the Dutch paints them within and puts the iron work to them and bring them their own again to sell.

They have yet a fourth kind of boats or litters which be flat bottomed of wonderful bigness for breadth. They be fashioned almost oval. They be little above 3 foot deep, but be made of such strengths that I have never seen bigger timber in any shape for the mighty knees and jyces which ly crose. One of these will load the best ship that there was in the harbor at twice going aboard. The name I have forgotten. They are open and subject to wet, otherwise they were good for the East Indian Company.

They have yet a fifth sort, such as the great persons of the land have to pass up and down the river. They be of divers bignesses, some greater, some lesser. They be made of two sort. The one have a fine little boarded house in the poop or after part. These be of the lesser sort. The greater sort have houses in the middle, prettily built with pretty windows in them. So both sorts have. But the state of them is, when any one great person is in them, they must then be covered, all that part that is like a house, with either red, blue or green, but the greatest all red, which I judge is of greatest state.

Medieval background and art for this etext courtesy of

Dreamdweller

Return to Asia page

Last Updated on February 5, 2001 by Lisa and Sylvia.